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When selecting parts for a car repair, it pays to know the differences between original and aftermarket parts. Whenever possible, get estimates for both. Choosing between original and aftermarket car parts — and even used parts of either type — is all about squaring your priorities with your budget. You’ll have different options depending on the part and the shop. And the best choice will depend on whether you’re trying to keep repairs cheap, restore your car’s appearance after a wreck or soup up your ride. » SIGN UP: Find savings on your car expenses Before we get into that, here are the key differences: Original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts match those that came with your car, and are of the same quality as its original parts. They’re also the most expensive. Aftermarket parts are cheaper, and made by other manufacturers — often several, giving you more options. Used parts may have a bit of wear and tear, but should be inspected or rebuilt to ensure they’ll work. These are the cheapest option. Choosing between aftermarket and OEM parts Your decision will depend on the type of repair and the quality and price of the parts. Always look for parts that come with a warranty, even if they’re OEM, so you’ll be protected in case they fail. Auto body repairs Some aftermarket parts may be OK for auto body repair, but others won’t be as good, says Michael Calkins, manager of technical services at AAA. “There’s a lot of variation in quality.” For example, he says, aftermarket parts often don’t have the same level of rustproofing as original parts, fit and finish don’t match, or panels don’t align properly. If OEM parts are used in auto body repair, the car should look and work exactly as it did before the damage, because everything will match up. OEM parts are also crash-tested, unlike many aftermarket parts. Aftermarket parts come at varying price points and levels of quality, but because they are cheaper, insurance companies often prefer them. If you want OEM parts but are dealing with an insurer that wants the shop to use aftermarket parts, ask to pay the difference. “There’s also the option of used parts, depending on the age of the vehicle,” Calkins says. “It may be cheaper than an aftermarket part but still have all of the original quality.” Mechanical repairs A used part, whether it’s OEM or aftermarket, can really save money on repairs under the hood, so long as it’s inspected first and warrantied. And some aftermarket companies reverse-engineer their products to be even better than OEM versions. For example, many car buffs will tell you that you can get heavy-duty shocks and struts or brake pads that are made of stronger materials. Scan some reviews online, or talk with your mechanic if you’re not sure whether an aftermarket part could be an upgrade. Adding some extras If you’d like to modify your ride by adding something like a backup camera or back-seat TV screen, you’ll probably be looking for aftermarket parts. Certain aftermarket upgrades could increase your car’s resale value. This is especially true for improvements like a better sound system or alloy wheels, rather than mechanical repairs. Who provides OEM or aftermarket parts? The options you’ll have for parts depends on the nature of the repairs and what type of shop you take your car to: Dealership repair shops will offer only OEM parts — they have no reason to offer a cheaper product from a competitor Independent mechanics may be able to offer you a choice between OEM and aftermarket parts Independent garages that specialize in your type of vehicle will likely have both, but with quicker access to OEM parts, including used OEM parts, which can really save you Auto body shops can offer both, but if your collision repair is part of an insurance claim, the insurer will likely prefer aftermarket parts to save money Depending on the job, the cost of OEM versus aftermarket parts varies. Whenever you’re given the choice, ask to see estimates for both so you can weigh your options. Source: https://www.nerdwallet.com/blog/loans/auto-loans/oem-vs-aftermarket-parts-car-choose/

Wow - thanks!!!! I did search "Ferrari Hubcap" and "Ferrari logo", but never found this.

First generation Chevy Luv. (Isuzu Faster) from 1972 to 1980. Here's a video of one in a 77 Luv for reference.

Teddy, Thanks for your input. I understand and agree with most or your reply. The whole point though, is quality. Otherwise what are you buying? Most of the troublesome parts were made in china. I am more familiar with china made products than I'd like to be. Fact is china is actually ruining the world base product supply. When you take a close look at a china mfgd part, you first find that the metal structure is either castings with small to large holes, covered up with a grey putty, or pressed steel parts where the metal is contaminated causing weak spots and corrosion. You also find parts inside that do not really fit, such as springs that are too long, insulating washers too thin, fastener threads incorrect, and rough mating / moving parts. Then you find dirty solders, missing solders, solder tabs too small for the pc board, and wiring attached to terminals with solder only. On top of that a reliable parts supply for repair of china made products does not exist. The point is that a person or garage cannot even do preventative work without serious risk. It's become better to keep a rusty, corroded part till it dies. China has taken manufacturing to a new all time low, and napa is buying those parts and representing them as quality with both advertising and cost. Car parts that are unreliable is a serious problem for the world.

Try Rock Auto. My brother uses them a lot for his truck and their car. This should be the right link https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2006,f-150

5% Discount Code: 9801412D458852 Expires: February 28, 2018 Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear about Us’ box to receive the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other words or numbers. Please note that orders using discount codes must be placed online and the discount code must be entered before an order is submitted to receive the discount. RockAuto.com is an online auto parts store founded in Madison, Wisconsin in 1999 by the Taylor family. RockAuto.com ships thousands of auto parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers worldwide. The RockAuto Catalog includes a full line of mechanical parts, from small items like filters and wiper blades to complete remanufactured transmissions and engine long blocks. The RockAuto catalog also contains a growing number of body parts: door handles, mirrors, sheet metal, bumper covers, even carpets! The RockAuto Catalog includes vehicles from the early 1900s to today, making it easy to find parts no matter what you drive. Prices on RockAuto.com are reliably low every day! Order online at www.RockAuto.com 24 hours a day. Parts are conveniently delivered to your door. Need help finding parts or placing an order? Visit our Help pages for further assistance!

I think this is a Relay which is used for power the electronic system installed in your car, it could either be off your car headlights or any other electronic part, It would be best to ask your mechanic regarding the part.

Mercedes-Benz and Ford Motor Co. would seem an unlikely couple. But in the American auto market they have used similar strategies to carve out dominant, cash-gushing positions in the industry’s two most lucrative segments: luxury vehicles and large pickup trucks. Both automakers, industry insiders say, have sliced the market so finely with so many different models that few will dare challenge their supremacy. Click Here to read more!

More Fluids and Lubricants! RockAuto's selection of Motor Oil, Coolant/Antifreeze, Transmission Fluid, Brake Fluid and other products by Aisin, Motorcraft, Beck/Arnley, Pentosin, etc. continues to expand so you have convenient access to the fluids specified for your vehicle. Help ensure successful repairs with Dielectric Grease, A/C Flush, Brake Lubricant, Transmission Fluid Conditioner and other new products by AGS, GPD, Four Seasons, Lucas Oil, and more. Find the fluid, chemical or lubricant you need under "Fluid" in the relevant category for your specific vehicle (Cooling System, Engine, Transmission-Automatic...) and under the "Tools & Universal Parts" tab. More Specialty Tools! RockAuto now has even more tools designed to assist with specific repairs. Our tools by GPD, Lisle, Performance Tool and others will get the job done correctly and can transform a knuckle-busting odyssey into an efficient, enjoyable repair. Find a Pitman Arm Puller, Piston Ring Installer, Flywheel Turner, Cam Pulley Holder and all the other specialty tools under "Tool" in the relevant category (Steering, Fuel & Air...) of the "Tools & Universal Parts" tab.

Source: http://www.businessmirror.com.ph/fake-auto-parts-and-road-safety/ ANY legitimate car nut would tell us not to scrimp on automotive parts, especially counterfeit ones, since the “savings wouldn’t be worth the headache”. Lately, there is clamor within the domestic auto-parts industry about the proliferation of fakes being sold by unscrupulous auto supply shops. Most are imported from abroad and costs only a fraction of original parts but bear very identical packaging. Current available data from the Land Transportation Office (LTO) tallies 7,690,038 registered vehicles across the country, bulk of which are in National Capital Region. Even a third of that figure would be a very lucrative market for fake parts. Fakes are not to be confused with original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts. OEM parts undergo the same rigid quality and performance testing standard procedures as original ones. Besides, some of a vehicle’s components are actually made by separate OEM companies as contractors to huge car manufacturers, like Toyota, Mercedes Benz, BMW, or Honda. Examples of top 100 global OEM companies are JTEKT Corp., Bosch GmbH, Denso Corp., Yazaki Corp., BASF SE and NTN Corp. Independent bogus manufacturers may counterfeit both original and OEM parts. Recently, auto enthusiast and veteran journalist Rey Langit hosted auto parts advocate lawyer Noven Joseph Quioc in one of his programs. Lawer Quioc said the Philippines unfortunately lacks facilities for accident and fatality analysis, such as those in developed countries like the US, making efforts to understand the cause of accidents difficult. Quioc said fake auto parts are not treated at the same level as spurious drugs or food items since they don’t seem to have an immediate lethal or health impact. Langit said it is quite alarming that some of the most commonly counterfeited parts are directly related to passenger safety than cosmetic value. Examples are mag wheels, tires, bearings, brake discs, brake pads, rubber rings, axle boots, oil filters and under chassis components, such as tie rods, rack ends and ball joints. In most cases, consumers are unaware that they are buying a fake part since the packaging of counterfeits is almost like that of original products. There are times that a consumer would consciously prefer a fake auto part for the fraction of a cost in order to save. That’s why many car enthusiasts suggest to only purchase parts from reliable and reputable auto supply shops. These shops usually have posters or flyers that show comparisons of packaging and product quality of parts in order to help consumers identify if what they are buying is fake. More often that not, fake products have misspellings, grammatical errors or design inconsistencies, such as misaligned texts or inaccurate colors in the packaging. The quality of the boxes and hologram/security stickers are of substandard quality. Some parts are also plastic-sealed to avoid tampering. “Fake car parts compromise the safety of everyone in the vehicle. For instance, buying fake rims, tires or brakes may not seem much, but many thrifty car owners forget to understand that these parts keep direct contact with the road. Should these parts fail, the accident will most likely be catastrophic, if not cause of traffic,” said Jose Nicolas Calanoc, deputy editor of C! Magazine. “Those who are buying fake automotive parts should ask themselves: are their and their passenger’s lives worth that amount they get to save?” he said. Arnel Doria, president of Safety Riders Association of the Philippines and Safe-T Ryders Training Center, said in a recent news conference that the menace of fake auto parts is not just restricted to loss of life but translates into a loss of revenue for an industry, as well. It also means less taxes and revenues for the government because the firms that make these fake parts do not pay taxes. Worse, many of these fake parts are smuggled into the country. That’s why international and local auto parts makers are coordinating with the National Bureau of Investigation (NBI) to raid and seize these items. The law-enforcement agency has been at it for almost two decades now, following complaints. Once caught, importers, distributors and retailers of fake parts will be charged in violation of the Intellectual Property Code of the Philippines. Recently, the National Bureau of Investigation conducted simultaneous raids in Metro Manila, Metro Cebu, Davao and Tagum, resulting in a rich haul of fake automotive parts. Again, would you rather risk your life and your loved ones for a fraction of a price? To reach the writer, e-mail [email protected].

Thanks for joining @MCT ! After you posted this I had to take a look at the wiki on this because I don't know myself. I always thought freon was R22, R134, and the newer R1234yf. Even a shorter word for "refrigerant" but come to find out its a registered trademark for The Chemours Company as a brand (spin-off from DuPont). Interesting read: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freon https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemours

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Hey everyone! Just wanted to share my experience with finding auto parts online. I recently needed some replacements for my car, and I was amazed at how many options are out there. Websites like Auto Parts Forum have been super helpful in finding the right parts without breaking the bank. If you’re looking to save some cash on repairs, definitely check out the discussions here. There are tons of tips on where to find deals and what brands to trust. Plus, the community is great for answering questions and sharing advice. Happy fixing!

Finding a replacement steering knuckle for your 1999 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 with a 4.0L V6 engine can be challenging, but here are a few steps to help you find the part: Compatible years and models The 1999 Ford Ranger shares many parts with other models. For the steering knuckle, you can generally use parts from: - **1998 - 2000 Ford Ranger** - **1998 - 2000 Mazda B4000** (as it shares many components with the Ford Ranger). Part Numbers Here are some part numbers you can find: - **F87Z-3K185-AA** - **F87Z-3K185-BA** (specifically for the 4x4 model). Where to find the part 1. **Local auto parts stores and dealerships**: - **AutoZone, O'Reilly Auto Parts, NAPA**: These stores often have an online inventory check. - Ford dealership**: They can order OEM parts directly from the manufacturer. 2. **Online Stores**: - **RockAuto**: Offers a wide range of auto parts for different models and years. - **eBay**: Useful for finding both new and used parts. - **Amazon**: Sometimes offers specific auto parts. 3. **Collections and auto parts warehouses**: - **Car-Part.com**: Allows you to search for parts at junkyards across the country. - Local junkyards: You may be able to find the right part from a scrapped car. 4. **Specialty auto parts sites**: - **LMC Truck**: Specializes in truck and SUV parts. - **PartsGeek**: Offers a variety of parts for different vehicles. Steps to ensure compliance 1. **Check Compatibility**: Double check that the part is compatible with your 1999 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4. 2. **Check part numbers**: Use the part numbers provided to find and confirm the fit. 3. **Consult a mechanic**: If you are in doubt, a professional mechanic can verify part compatibility. By following these steps, you should be able to find the right steering knuckle for your 1999 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4.

Been doing brakes on my cars since I'm 19 now I'm 45. So I have a Mazda 6 changed the pads and rotors on the front twice this is the third. Rear only twice. This past Sunday I swapped out for durlast gold rotors and ceramic pads. Did all I usually do released the pistons came out no issue collapsed them no issue. Sylglided my slides and all points. I did use crc grease for the first time on the shim outside of pads other than sykglide I always liked. Bedded the pads and rotors as I have always done. I'm getting shaking when braking at highway speed above 50mph. Under that brakes brake amazing! Anyone have an idea?

Hey there, I am curious if anyone knows where to locate the “plug” to INSTALL a block heater in my 2013 Chevy Equinox LT 2.4L. I have not been able to find anything online about where a block heater can be installed and if it even has a plug to slide through. Am I better off getting a magnetic block heater? Thanks in advance.

Brake master cylinders convert the force exerted on the brake pedal into hydraulic force that is transmitted to the individual brake hydraulic cylinders located at each wheel. Their basic operation is easy to understand, but before getting into that, let’s look at how impressive the brake system actually is. Have you ever tried to stop a car that rolls unexpectedly down an incline, even an incredibly slight one? It’s not easy. As a matter of fact, most of the time, you just get out of the way and hope it doesn’t hit anything before it stops. Cars are heavy. We’re not strong enough to stop them, even with all our might. So how is it we’re able to stop them with one foot and the brake pedal? It’s not because we’re that strong. It’s because of hydraulics, the basis for brake-system operation. The theory of hydraulics states that the pressure exerted anywhere on an enclosed liquid is transmitted equally in all directions. A visual representation can make it easier to understand. Figure 1 shows a cylinder with a piston that has a surface area of 1 square inch. Five pounds of force are being exerted on the end of the piston, which creates 5 pounds per square inch (psi) of pressure inside the system. Since liquid doesn’t compress, that pressure is transmitted equally to all interior surfaces of the cylinder. That same 5 psi travels through the line into the larger cylinder that has a piston with a surface area of 10 square inches. Since the pressure is transmitted equally to all surfaces, 5 psi is being applied to each square inch of the larger piston, and multiplying the pressure by the area gives the output of the larger piston. This is what allows master cylinders to be relatively small, yet a brake system to be so powerful. How Do They Work? The primary parts of any master cylinder are the reservoir, the body and the piston(s). The reservoir can be made of cast iron, aluminum or plastic; the bodies will be cast iron or aluminum. Cast-iron or aluminum reservoirs are usually cast together with the body of the master cylinder, making them appear as one single piece. This is the original type of master cylinder on most “classic” cars. When plastic reservoirs are used, they typically sit directly on top of the master cylinder, but they also can be mounted remotely if there’s no room, with a hose leading to the master cylinder. The piston is located in a bore within the body of the master cylinder, and when the brake pedal is depressed, the force on the piston pressurizes the brake fluid and pushes it through the lines. A series of valves and ports further controls the flow and return of the fluid inside the master cylinder. For many years, master cylinders were of the single-piston type, meaning only one piston pushed the fluid to all four wheels. The problem with this design was if there was a pressure loss anywhere in the system, there was a complete loss of brakes. By the late 1960s, dual-piston master cylinders were mandatory on all new cars. A dual-piston master cylinder has two separate braking circuits, which can be split diagonally or front to rear, but either way, the important factor is you can still stop the car with a pressure loss on one circuit. Whether it’s a diagonal or front-to-rear split depends on the vehicle. For example, a front-to-rear split is acceptable on vehicles with an even front-to-rear weight division, but when most of the vehicle weight is in front – such as on a front-wheel-drive vehicle – the system is split diagonally, since the rear brakes alone wouldn’t be enough to stop the vehicle. Maintenance One school of thought says there’s no actual maintenance on the master cylinder, and this is loosely correct. However, regularly flushing the brake fluid is routine maintenance that not only maintains proper braking, but also will extend the life of all brake components, including the master cylinder. Due to the corrosive nature of brake fluid – which gets worse the older it gets and the greater amount of moisture it absorbs – the seals, valves, piston and bore inside a master cylinder are easily damaged by dirty fluid. Signs of Trouble There are some telltale signs of a failing master cylinder. The first one is a slow fluid loss with no outwardly visible leak. The only possible location for an external leak is at the rear of the bore, where the pistons slide in during assembly. It’s often hard to see a leak, since the fluid leaks out the back into the brake booster or inside the vehicle when the master cylinder is mounted to the firewall. If there is regular fluid loss but no external leaks can be seen, look closely at this area. Brake fluid damages paint, and a close inspection usually shows softened paint around the mounting ears of the master cylinder, indicating a leak. In some cases, you may have to unbolt the master cylinder to inspect it for leaks. Occasionally, the seals between the reservoir and master cylinder can leak as well, but these are usually available separately. If the brake pedal slowly sinks to the floor when you’re pressing on it, this indicates fluid is leaking internally past the piston seals and the master cylinder must be replaced. Eventually, this will lead to complete failure of the master cylinder, resulting in a pedal that goes completely to the floor and no brakes. If a brake system experiences a sudden loss of braking force and the pedal goes to the floor, this generally indicates a broken brake line or hose, which also will be evident by rapid loss of fluid. Master cylinders themselves rarely exhibit sudden failure. They almost always give warning in the way of slow leaks or slow leak-down of the brake pedal, which means it’s time to replace. Replacement When your customer is installing a new master cylinder, they’ll need brake fluid first and foremost, and they may ultimately need a lot more when they go to bleed the system if they find bleeder screws that won’t open. However, the most important advice you can give them is to bench-bleed the master cylinder following the instructions and using the bleeding hardware that comes with it. You can assure them it’s a simple and quick process, but a potential nightmare if they don’t. This is also one of the most important times to use a fender cover. Even the slightest drop of brake fluid on the paint will begin to etch into it immediately, and it’s a quick and easy way to avoid it. The post Stopping Power: Brake Master Cylinders appeared first on Counterman Magazine. View the full article

Great!! Thanks for the info. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They might. They all are same or similar. You can see on ebay they advertise 1973-1987 fitment This one might be it

There is a slight bolt pattern difference from 1500 to 2500.

2020 mirrors mount on the door not the window.

You can post it on this site or others sites like ebay. You can also look around for classic car classifieds and post there.

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First try to find out what they fit but because they are 20 series and low profile, I would try to get $150-250 each so $600-1000 as long as the rims aren't bent or damaged.

Napa doesn't make anything so its all just privately branded. That being said, you have to watch what you buy. Rock Auto doesn't have their own brand and sells the manufacturer branded parts directly from other suppliers. The reality is that since rock auto, amazon, and other online sellers hit the market and online purchasing increased, margins dropped because of heavy competition. Large companies like Napa have more overhead than Rock Auto. Rock Auto is drop-shipping, they don't have any warehouses or parts stores. They are order takes and have negotiated with companies like Parts Authority and other WDs to send out (drop ship) their orders. They make much less margin but sell a lot. They have much less overhead; no stores, no large staff of employees, etc., so they can afford to do that. Napa can't sell at those prices without closing some stores, laying off some people, and reducing overhead to operate at lower margins. So...to keep margins higher, Napa renegotiates with manufacturers and sometimes quality suffers because the manufacturers try to make it for less.

Just bought this 3 in 1 Foor Jack kit. It gets everything I need when fixing the tire. A good tool in car and garage! Really help me a lot when I fix my tire. You guys can check it out in GearLiv Amazon Store 38db7e68e86f9dff1e29d7ec8cf3dd2c.mp4b7c81312572e227f16e3fb5a93e2169f.mp4b7c81312572e227f16e3fb5a93e2169f.mp438db7e68e86f9dff1e29d7ec8cf3dd2c.mp4 38db7e68e86f9dff1e29d7ec8cf3dd2c.mp4 c9aab2efd0bede1d44ec1f5f30d9dba9.mp4

Porsche Huntington is your source for factory authorized Porsche sales, parts, and service. Whether you are looking to buy new or used Porsche cars, looking for genuine parts, or servicing your car, our certified sales and factory-trained service team are here to help. In addition to wide selection of Porsche cars from various years and models, our dealership is equipped with the complete set of specialized Porsche tools and computerized test equipment needed for the best, most accurate repair and maintenance. Contact Info 855 East Jericho Turnpike Huntington Station Suffolk New York 11746 United States Social Media https://www.facebook.com/porscheofhuntington/ https://twitter.com/porschehuntingt https://instagram.com/porscheofhuntington/ https://porschehuntington.com/news_events/

I agree with @MCT about Rockauto and I always check amazon as well although rockauto has the best pricing but you need to factor in the shipping to see if its still the best after that because retailers like Advance, Autozone, and O'Reilly will offer you free shipping and discount codes but the parts are higher priced. So check around and net it down to final costs after shipping and tax. The plus about going to a retailer is that if you need to exchange or return, it's easier.

Rubber shock absorber for automobiles With the development of social economy, the automobile industry at home and abroad is facing a period of rapid change, which is characterized by further improving the service life of the automobile under the premise of ensuring driving safety, riding comfort, high speed and luxury. Damping products are used to control the vibration and noise of automobiles and to improve their handling stability. They are generally placed in the engine frame, rod holder, suspension shaft lining, center bearing bracket, bump limiter and torsional vibration absorber to improve the safety and comfort of automobiles. Damping products can be divided into four categories: bracket type, shaft lining type, buffer type and damping type. The main requirements of damping, heat resistance and fatigue resistance are good. Automobile shock absorber rubber products include engine bearings, suspension components, rubber springs, rubber air springs and impact rubber protective parts. In recent years, in order to improve the safety, comfort and maneuverability of automobiles, the variety and quantity of shock absorber rubber products for automobiles are increasing as the number of shock absorber rubber products on a car has reached 50-60 pieces.

That's a CV boot for most likely a front wheel drive vehicle. 😁

The oil dipstick is a common part in the engine lubrication system. Its core function is to ensure that the oil of the engine oil bottom is in a reasonable range, and also has the function of sealing the crankcase and providing support for other accessories. Although the structure is simple, it is essential on the engine. Oil gauge is widely used by automobile manufacturers at home and abroad because of its cost advantage over oil level sensor. The oil dipstick is usually used in combination with the ruler tube, so that the user can easily understand the oil level in the engine and ensure the engine oil storage in a reasonable range. Reliable lubrication of engine is guaranteed by lubricating oil rice. Too much oil or too little will affect the normal operation of the engine. The addition of the lubricating oil must be appropriate. When the oil in the engine oil bottom is insufficient, the engine is not lubricated and the engine is badly lubricated. The engine will seriously damage the engine. If the engine oil is too much oil, the engine will stir the engine oil sharply in the end of the crankshaft and connecting rod, not only increases the engine power in the engine, but also increases the power inside the engine. Loss, but also will increase the amount of oil splashed onto the cylinder wall, resulting in the phenomenon of burning oil. Therefore, the engine oil sump must be controlled within the proper range.

I prefer to buy aftermarket car parts instead of OEM due to the fact that aftermarket car parts are less costly as compared to OEM. Choosing aftermarket car parts gives you a variety of options and they are easily available, whereas OEM parts on the other hand are not readily available and in order to purchase an OEM part you will have to contact your care manufacturer. Lastly, and most importantly, aftermarkets parts have been known to perform better then the original parts in certain cases.

Not airtex, but here is GMB http://auto-house.pro/pdf catalogue/gmb water pump catalog 2012-13.pdf

I have split your post out of the topic you replied to and created this new topic for you. Please keep this topic updated. Thank you.

Tire rack has been in business a long time. You can buy tires from them and have them shipped to a certified repair shop. https://www.tirerack.com/content/tirerack/desktop/en/deliver_installation.html

The factory-recommended replacement intervals for filters can vary quite a bit depending on the year, make and model of the vehicle, as well as how it is driven. As a rule, older vehicles (those more than 15 to 20 years old) typically have more frequent service intervals than newer vehicles. Why? Because late-model vehicles require less maintenance, thanks to improvements in motor oils, transmission fluids, engine design and filter media. Many long-life air and oil filters use synthetic fiber media or a blend of cellulose and synthetic fibers to extend filter life. Changing the oil and filter every 3,000 miles was standard practice decades ago. But it’s no longer necessary because most multi-viscosity oils today are a synthetic blend or a full synthetic that resist viscosity breakdown and oxidation for a much longer period of time. Late-model fuel-injected engines also run much cleaner than their carbureted ancestors, which reduces oil contamination in the crankcase. Oil and filter change intervals for most late-model vehicles range from 5,000 to 7,500 to 10,000 miles or more. Many vehicles don’t even have a time/mileage recommendation anymore but rely on a computer algorithm to turn on a “service reminder light” when an oil change is needed. A key point with today’s extended service intervals is that they depend on two things: using a top-quality motor oil that meets OEM service requirements, and a premium or long-life oil filter (brand name or private label) that has the storage capacity to go the distance without clogging. The most common mistake that’s made when recommending or choosing an oil filter is to go with the least expensive filter on the shelf. That can be a big mistake if a customer is not changing their oil for 5,000 miles or more. Many economy filters lack the storage capacity to go beyond 4,000 or 5,000 miles before they clog and go into bypass mode and route unfiltered oil to the engine. Our advice is to always recommend a premium or extended-life filter to every customer who is following extended service intervals, as well as customers who are buying synthetic motor oil because they want the best protection for their engine. Recommended replacement intervals for engine air filters can range from 30,000 to 50,000 miles or more, but it depends more on exposure to dirt than time or mileage. The dirtier the environment, the more often the air filter should be replaced. Inspecting the air filter when the oil is changed is the best way to tell if it is dirty. Cabin air filters that trap both dust and odors typically have a service life of about one year regardless of mileage because the charcoal particles that absorb odors degrade over time. Dust-only cabin air filters should be inspected and/or replaced every two years or 30,000 miles, or as needed depending on operating conditions. In-line fuel filters typically have a recommended replacement interval of 30,000 to 50,000 miles. But many of today’s fuel filters are part of the fuel pump module assembly inside the fuel tank and are “lifetime” filters with no recommended replacement interval. The filter should have enough capacity to last upward of 10 years or 150,000 miles – unless the fuel is somehow contaminated with a tank of dirty gas (it happens!). Most late-model automatic transmission filters also are “lifetime” filters with no specified replacement interval. Under “normal” use, the fluid and filter often can go upwards of 10 years or 150,000 miles. However, many transmission experts still recommend changing the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles for preventive maintenance. Fluid and filter life can be cut short if the transmission runs hot (towing can cause this), or as a result of hard use. Discolored fluid that smells like burned toast is a sign of overheating and should be changed without delay. Source: http://www.counterman.com/replacement-intervals-for-oil-and-air-filters-in-todays-vehicles/

I caught one of these episodes and it was pretty good.

I typed in the numbers found on it, and looks to me like it might be a Daytime Running Light Module , not exactly sure what it is, but has to do with running lights i guess @Courtenay Rose

I don't know what that is, it might be a housing or part of the release bearing. Do you have a parts schematic you can refer to?

If you weren’t able to attend AAPEX in Las Vegas, don’t despair: Babcox Media brings you two of the most exciting publications available to show attendees - the Show Daily and Product Plus. Click on the image to launch your Product Plus digital edition Product Plus brings you exciting products introduced at the AAPEX show as well as various award winners in several product categories. Click on the AAPEX Express images to launch your daily digital editions (L to R: Day 1, Day 2, Day 3) The Show Daily recaps each day of AAPEX, packed with news on award recipients, training opportunities and other show highlights.

that was a funny ad. changing the air filter is a must, especially if you have kids as your passengers

FORMULATED EXCLUSIVELY FOR HIGH-PERFORMANCE TRACK USE In 1957, Raybestos® started partnering with drivers in the Indy 500 and sponsoring the Safety in Speed award. This started a long tradition of excellence and recognition in the racing world. Over the years, many drivers have taken the checkered flag using Raybestos® brakes. Today, drivers still rely on Raybestos' quality and innovation for first-lap-to-last-lap championship performance. Race proven by champions globally, Raybestos® Professional Racing Brake Pads are engineered to provide reliable, consistent braking in all track conditions. Extensive high-temperature, fade-resistance testing on our friction guarantees championship results. Formulated for high-performance track use, our Racing friction is not designed for street use. It is intended for track use only. When using Raybestos® Professional Racing Brake Pads you can expect: Superior friction formulations Dependable, aggressive and fade-resistant braking Superior shear strength Low wear rate Extreme stopping power and unparalleled safety For safe, long-wearing disc brake pads, why would you look anywhere else? Get into pole position with Raybestos® Professional Racing Brake Pads. Materials: Raybestos® Professional Racing Brake Pads offer semi-metallic formulations designed for high-heat racing conditions. Design: These brake pads are designed and engineered for the demands and extreme usage needed on a race track. They are not meant for street use. The racing program has a strong selection of popular stocking part numbers featuring a number of: Application-specific compounds, including high-speed oval, road course, short track, dirt and rally. Pad shapes to fit the world's leading racing caliper manufacturers. A variety of pad thickness options. Custom pads are available through the "Build to Order" part of the program. Just select the pad shape, formulation and thickness you need. We will press it right here in the United States. Mechanical Retention System: Our Mechanical Retention System securely attaches the friction material to the backing plate with integrated steel hooks, providing unmatched shear strength. The Mechanical Retention System system is a proven winner on the most severe racing applications in the world, from Watkins Glen to Martinsville Speedway. https://www.brakepartsinc.com/raybestos/en-us/products/brake-pads/racing

Hi friends, I am Cherry from Maxpeedingrods, now we are change our warehouse in US , AU , UK and DE, so now we have to clear the old stocks, if you are interested in just feel free to contact me for more detail. just pay shipping and you could get the auto parts value 100usd+ (conrods, turbos, coilovers, air suspension and so on) Regards,CherryMaxpeedingrods

Step 1 Print rebate form and fill out completely, following all instructions. Step 2 Include all required UPCs / Barcodes / Sales Receipts Step 3 Mail to the address listed on the rebate form. https://oreillyauto.com/oreilly-do-it-right

Oops, sorry, i was mistaken. it was R 22 they changed, Sorry.

Wouldn't that be something! I still think there is some sort of consolidation that's going to happen between Autozone, Advance, O'reilly, and Napa. There are just too many parts stores and when you add all the other mom and pops and distribution centers, parts everywhere...More and more people buy online and that has to hurt parts sales at these locations unless they are capturing it online, but they still have brick and mortar costs to pay for.

Yes it could be a variety of things and the right thing would be to have it diagnosed either at a repair shop or a dealer, unless you are able to run some test on the 02 and exhaust. The other thing to consider is if there are some warranty or added warranty items available on this vehicle. If you haven't already, get your car loaded into myChevy https://my.chevrolet.com/home . You'll be able to see if there are any recalls and service items extended to 150k. Some of these GM vehicles have additional coverage added to them because of known issues and some include the catalytic converter, fuel pump, and also oil consumption which could trigger your code as well.

Standard Motor Products, Inc. (SMP) announces the addition of 109 new part numbers to its BWD engine management line. The release spans 24 product categories and expands coverage through the 2017 model year with more than 57 million VIO. One highlight from the release is an expansion to BWD’s sensor line. The brand adds 61 sensors including ABS speed, accelerator pedal, brake pad wear, knock, MAP, steering angle, and vehicle speed sensors. In total, the sensor expansion covers more than 26 million VIO. The brand also introduces 26 switches such as cruise control, headlight, ignition, multi-function, and neutral safety switches. To view all highlights from this release, watch BWD’s latest New Parts Spotlight on www.youtube.com/bwdbrand. All new applications are listed in the eCatalog found at BWDbrand.com and in electronic catalog providers. BWD is an aftermarket leader, providing a premium line of engine management products. BWD manufactures and distributes high technology critical components for late model vehicles including computerized engine controls, ignition coil-on-plug coils, ignition wire, emission components, EGR valves, fuel injectors and fuel system components, as well as a broad range of sensors, switches and relays.

I think this relates to many GM newer engines, but I ran into this recently on a late model Chevy Equinox that seemed to have an oil consumption issue. The car was burning 2 quarts every 2-3k miles. now the dealer states that it's normal to burn 1/2 a quart every 1k miles, so this was excessive. I had the oil changed and they used Dexos spec oil and the consumption got significantly less. They say to use a blend or full synthetic. Prior to this I had Valvoline perform the routine maintenance with standard oil not really thinking about it until I noticed an engine rattle after being 2 quarts low, especially on turns. Once I topped it off, it went away. Nevertheless, I felt it was consuming and took it to the dealer. So now, Dexos only approved oil and i never thought about it but it says Dexos right on the oil cap. Anyone else run into this?