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The factory-recommended replacement intervals for filters can vary quite a bit depending on the year, make and model of the vehicle, as well as how it is driven. As a rule, older vehicles (those more than 15 to 20 years old) typically have more frequent service intervals than newer vehicles. Why? Because late-model vehicles require less maintenance, thanks to improvements in motor oils, transmission fluids, engine design and filter media.
Many long-life air and oil filters use synthetic fiber media or a blend of cellulose and synthetic fibers to extend filter life.
Changing the oil and filter every 3,000 miles was standard practice decades ago. But it’s no longer necessary because most multi-viscosity oils today are a synthetic blend or a full synthetic that resist viscosity breakdown and oxidation for a much longer period of time. Late-model fuel-injected engines also run much cleaner than their carbureted ancestors, which reduces oil contamination in the crankcase.
Oil and filter change intervals for most late-model vehicles range from 5,000 to 7,500 to 10,000 miles or more. Many vehicles don’t even have a time/mileage recommendation anymore but rely on a computer algorithm to turn on a “service reminder light” when an oil change is needed.
A key point with today’s extended service intervals is that they depend on two things: using a top-quality motor oil that meets OEM service requirements, and a premium or long-life oil filter (brand name or private label) that has the storage capacity to go the distance without clogging.
The most common mistake that’s made when recommending or choosing an oil filter is to go with the least expensive filter on the shelf. That can be a big mistake if a customer is not changing their oil for 5,000 miles or more. Many economy filters lack the storage capacity to go beyond 4,000 or 5,000 miles before they clog and go into bypass mode and route unfiltered oil to the engine.
Our advice is to always recommend a premium or extended-life filter to every customer who is following extended service intervals, as well as customers who are buying synthetic motor oil because they want the best protection for their engine.
Recommended replacement intervals for engine air filters can range from 30,000 to 50,000 miles or more, but it depends more on exposure to dirt than time or mileage. The dirtier the environment, the more often the air filter should be replaced. Inspecting the air filter when the oil is changed is the best way to tell if it is dirty.
Cabin air filters that trap both dust and odors typically have a service life of about one year regardless of mileage because the charcoal particles that absorb odors degrade over time. Dust-only cabin air filters should be inspected and/or replaced every two years or 30,000 miles, or as needed depending on operating conditions.
In-line fuel filters typically have a recommended replacement interval of 30,000 to 50,000 miles. But many of today’s fuel filters are part of the fuel pump module assembly inside the fuel tank and are “lifetime” filters with no recommended replacement interval. The filter should have enough capacity to last upward of 10 years or 150,000 miles – unless the fuel is somehow contaminated with a tank of dirty gas (it happens!).
Most late-model automatic transmission filters also are “lifetime” filters with no specified replacement interval. Under “normal” use, the fluid and filter often can go upwards of 10 years or 150,000 miles. However, many transmission experts still recommend changing the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles for preventive maintenance. Fluid and filter life can be cut short if the transmission runs hot (towing can cause this), or as a result of hard use. Discolored fluid that smells like burned toast is a sign of overheating and should be changed without delay.
Air filters, cabin air filters, oil filters and (sometimes) fuel and transmission filters are important maintenance parts that typically are replaced according to a time and/or mileage schedule. A vehicle’s service schedule recommendations can be found in the owner’s manual or in a separate brochure. Unfortunately, many motorists never read – or totally ignore – the recommendations.
Factory service schedules are designed to prolong the life of the engine, transmission and cooling system, to reduce premature wear and breakdowns, but also to minimize maintenance costs while the vehicle is still under warranty. That’s why factory oil change recommendations have been stretched to 7,500 to 10,000 miles or more on many late-model vehicles. Most late-model cars and light trucks no longer have recommended change intervals for transmission fluid and filters, or for fuel filters. These so-called “lifetime” fluids and filters are supposed to last a long time – but they won’t last forever. Experience has shown that “lifetime” filters and fluids don’t live up to the hype.
Fuel filters always should be replaced when a fuel pump is replaced (unless the filter is part of the fuel pump module assembly). Likewise, transmission filters should be replaced if a customer is changing the fluid in their transmission.
Last Line of Defense Against Contaminants
Filters are the first line of defense against contaminants. Air filters keep dirt and abrasive particles out of the engine. A good-quality air filter will trap about 98 percent or more of the particles that can cause trouble inside an engine. As the filter media becomes saturated with dirt, it’s efficiency actually increases. But, as the filter becomes clogged with more and more dirt, it also becomes more restrictive to airflow. The greater the pressure drop across the filter, the more it hurts performance and fuel economy.
Ideally, an air filter will be replaced before it causes a restriction in airflow. Whether or not an air filter goes 30,000 miles or 50,000 miles before it needs to be replaced depends on driving conditions and how much dirt the filter has ingested over those miles. Driving on dusty rural gravel roads is a lot different than suburban or city driving. Air filters need to be inspected regularly and changed more on an “as needed” basis than the mileage on the odometer.
The same advice goes for cabin air filters, which typically need to be replaced every couple of years. Carbon-impregnated “odor” filters are only good for about a year before they lose their ability to absorb odors. Cabin air filters are an often overlooked maintenance item because many motorists are unaware their vehicle has one, or how often it should be changed. The filters usually are located behind the glovebox or under a panel in the cowl area of the windshield.
With oil filters, the situation is a little different. An oil filter traps dirt and metallic wear particles in the crankcase to protect the bearings, rings, camshaft and valvetrain components. The life of the oil filter depends on how rapidly contaminants are generated inside the engine. If the air filter is doing its job and prevents dirt from being sucked into the engine, and the rings and cylinders are in good condition and holding a tight combustion seal, and the oil is doing its job of minimizing wear, an oil filter easily should last until the next oil change is needed.
Oil filters have a built-in bypass valve so if they do become clogged and the pressure differential becomes too great, the bypass valve will open, allowing the engine to maintain normal oil pressure. The only problem is that the oil will be unfiltered, which means the bearings, cam and valvetrain have no protection against abrasive wear particles. The small size and limited dirt-holding capacity of many late-model oil filters means regular changes are a must.
By Max A-Profi
Equipment for ball joint repair is very popular today. Why? I propose to sort this out together.
The quality of roads, unfortunately, is far from always meeting the standards that we would like to see. This is well known not only to all drivers, but also to passengers. The first thing that suffers from this is the ball joints, which during the movement of the vehicle experience destructive effects from all sides. In the picture, the zones of maximum load exerted on the nodal connection are marked in red:
Sectional picture of a ball joint The node itself consists of two elements:
Sleeve; Swivel ball. Between them is a special polymer, which:
It softens the force of ball impact on the sleeve; Minimizes the effect of friction of metal parts against each other. All problems, including wrest the wheel on its side, are possible if the polymer liner is worn, which is inevitable over time.
Wrest the wheel-turned wheel example SJR technology avoids such a catastrophic outcome and, with timely intervention, maintains the performance of the ball joint almost endlessly. How it works? Let’s figure it out.
There are two methods for ball support recovery using SJR equipment:
Removal of old polymer Drill a hole in the case of the sleeve; Burn the remains of the old polymer with a gas burner; In the extruder, melt a new batch of polymer Under high pressure, the molten polymer is injected into the cavity between the ball and the sleeve through a hole previously made. The solution fills all the voids, solidifies and forms a new liner, not inferior in its characteristics to the factory insert. 2. Demountable
The collapsible method is more complicated and longer, but also more efficient. It is used when there is significant wear on the ball joint, the appearance of rust on the ball.
In this case, the repair begins with the following steps:
Cut the sleeve in half. Polish the ball. Brew sleeve. The final steps are the same as in the previous method.
The advantages of using this technology are quite obvious. It:
Economic benefit. Recovery is always cheaper than buying a new part; Universality. Suitable for the restoration of any ball joints and steering tips; The compact dimensions of the necessary equipment. Even the largest machine can easily be rearranged from one place to another by one person and can be comfortably located not only in a spacious car service, but also in a small garage workshop; Cheap consumables. Variants of suitable equipment
The operations described above can be carried out using various equipment that differs from each other:
At the cost of; In size; Power; In level of automation. We will briefly consider four models presented on our website.
Equipment for ball joint repair – Light version
The simplest version of equipment for recovery of ball joints and steering includes:
An extruder for heating and forming a polymer consistency; Three interchangeable adapter fittings, with which the solution is charged under pressure into the problem area; Remote thermometer that allows you to monitor the temperature of the detail at a distance; Five polymer rods, shipping container and instructions. The pressure of such a device is only 25 kg / cm2 , and it needs a compressor with a capacity of 7-10 atm at the service station. The set is quite economical in terms of financial expenses, as it costs only 180 $, and is compact, but quite demanding on additional equipment and labor costs from the operator.
Equipment for ball joint repair – Modification 1
This model is reinforced:
A more powerful piston capable of creating pressure up to 80 kg / cm 2 ; The control unit simplifies the operation of the device. But it also costs a little more: 370 $.
Equipment for ball joint repair – Modification 2
In the next modification, the piston power reaches 100 kg / cm2 . But its main advantage is the presence of a high-quality mechanism for centering the ball joint. Such an addition allows during the introduction of the molten polymer to firmly and reliably fix the part in one position. This facilitates the work of the operator, and the quality of the result improves.
The cost of such equipment reaches 640 $.
Equipment for ball joint repair – SJR 3 machine
The SJR 3 machine will cost 1 180 $ for your workshop, but will eventually work out every cent invested and will bring considerable profit from above. This is a fully automated unit, equipped with all technological advances.
Here are just a few of its most significant advantages:
The created pressure – 240 kg / cm 2 ; Full control of the melting process; Automatic nozzle feed; Mechanical clamp and centering of the ball joint; Robust cast housing. Conclusion
The restoration of ball joints and steering tips using SJR technology is a technologically advanced, profitable and easily feasible process in the presence of the necessary equipment. It is noteworthy that such equipment is available in different price categories, so that every car repair shop can make the optimal choice for itself.
Bosch is offering a 15% instant rebate on select Air, Fuel and Oil Filters
View on RockAuto.com
Bosch is offering a 15% instant rebate on select Air, Fuel and Oil Filters
View on RockAuto.com