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By Counterman
There are many ways that a vehicle tries to tell you when there’s something wrong – some of them subtle, some of them not so subtle.
A “Check Engine” light or other malfunction indicator light is a clear signal that there’s an issue that needs to be addressed.
However, other clues – such as an unusual sound, smell or vibration – can be much harder to interpret, depending on the owner’s knowledge and understanding of automotive systems and diagnostics.
For many drivers, it’s tempting to ignore these clues and hope the issue goes away – or pray that the vehicle will remain drivable until they have the time (or money) to take it to a repair shop.
When an engine overheats, hoping and praying go out the window.
An overheated engine is a blatant indication that something is seriously wrong. At the risk of being melodramatic, it’s a cry for help from the engine – often the result of cues (such as that puddle of coolant in the driveway) that were missed or ignored. That cry for help usually comes in the form of steam emanating from under the hood; the temperature gauge indicating that the engine is running hot; and/or a noticeable smell coming from the engine.
As for the causes of an overheated engine, let’s round up some of the usual suspects.
Coolant Leak
As the name implies, coolant helps maintain a consistent temperature that won’t overheat components such as the cylinder head. According to Prestone, coolant touches 17 essential parts of an engine. Not surprisingly, a coolant leak is a primary cause of engine overheating.
A bad head gasket can result in coolant leaking into the combustion chamber or onto the ground.
A cracked or corroded radiator can allow coolant to seep or stream out if the leak gets bad enough.
As rubber coolant hoses get old, they can get hard and brittle, creating small cracks that let coolant escape.
Coolant leaks also can occur at the water-pump-shaft seal, coolant reservoir or heater core.
Restricted coolant flow is another potential culprit. Buildup of mineral deposits and other debris in the radiator can dramatically reduce the ability of the cooling system to do its job. Likewise, buildup in the hoses can slow the flow of coolant, leading to reduced cooling and even clogs in the system from loose corrosion. When coolant flow is restricted, it’s a recipe for overheating.
What can you do to help prevent these situations? Make sure you’re encouraging your customers to follow the vehicle’s recommended flush-and-fill schedule, and to always use the coolant specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
Bad Thermostat
The thermostat regulates the coolant temperature to keep it consistent for efficient engine operation. A conventional thermostat reacts to changes in the coolant temperature based on the status of the wax inside it. When the wax melts, a spring pushes the valve open and coolant flows. When the coolant drops in temperature, the wax solidifies, and the valve closes.
If the thermostat gets stuck in the closed position, coolant won’t pass through the radiator, and the engine becomes overheated. Conversely, when the thermostat is stuck in the open position, the continuous circulation of coolant can lead to a condition known as overcooling. Both scenarios are bad news for an engine.
Water Pump
Since water pumps move such a vast amount of coolant through the cooling system (something like seven gallons of coolant during a driven mile), it stands to reason that a failed water pump will cause the engine to overheat. Without a properly functioning water pump, the cooling system can’t maintain the pressure needed to push coolant to vital engine parts.
One of the biggest causes of water-pump failure is the result of leaks, either around the shaft or from a worn bearing or seal. Debris can enter the system and score the shaft seal, creating a leak path.
Cavitation – tiny bubbles of super-heated vapor inside the water pump – also can cause damage and leaks. Worn belts or tensioners are another potential culprit. A loose belt might not allow the pump to rotate as fast as it should, which then causes the engine to overheat.
Parting Thoughts
Cooling systems in modern vehicles are evolving. We’re seeing new twists on traditional concepts – electronically controlled thermostats, for example – and we’re seeing entirely new components, such as active grille shutters.
Still, the basic premise hasn’t changed. Cooling systems manage the heat produced by the engine. If the system can’t maintain the pressure needed to circulate coolant, the engine will overheat.
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By Mighty Auto Parts
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link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view. When dealing with oil consumption complaints, how much should be considered as too excessive? Is the engine consuming an excessive amount of oil or should the amount consumed be considered a normal characteristic? This is especially a concern with the extended service intervals, which may result in the vehicle being driven twice the mileage when […]
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By Dorman Products
Dorman's 926-969 patented OE FIX™ oil filter housing kit | what's included and key advantages
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By Counterman
Of all the different mounts on a vehicle, the most attention is given to engine and transmission mounts. Why? Because they cause the most noticeable symptoms when they go bad, and they go bad the most often. But why do they fail?
The answer lies in what they are and what they do. A mount is nothing more than a specific component that secures one item to another. However, what separates a mount from a bracket, for example, is its ability to prevent vibration transfer between the two components. In the case of an engine or transmission mount, they isolate vibration transfer to the vehicle frame, as well as dampen the movement of the powertrain.
This makes vehicle operation smoother for the driver, but the necessity of them is greater than just comfort. They also prevent the fatigue and cracking of metal – an occurrence that would be commonplace if engines were bolted directly to the frames. It takes no wild guess to figure out that rubber is the material responsible for it all. Take a piece of rubber, bond it between two pieces of metal, and you have a mount.
So, getting down to it, here’s why they fail.
Age
Rubber weakens with age, just like it does on tires. Now think of the force that’s exerted on an engine mount every time you accelerate. The torque of the engine attempts to twist it, pulling and stretching on one mount and pushing and collapsing another. Do this over and over again thousands of times and it’s impressive that these mounts last as long as they do.
Sometimes the rubber just tears. Other times it separates from one of the metal plates that it’s bonded or secured to. Some mounts may not tear or separate, based on their enclosed design, but the rubber can shrink or become distorted, allowing for excessive movement. It’s all just about age and use. It just happens.
Contamination
Rubber and oil don’t like each other much. Oil degrades the integrity of the rubber, causing it to soften and swell. Oil contamination is common on engine or transmission mounts due to engine-oil or transmission-fluid leaks. Eventually, the rubber tears or separates, but prematurely compared to the normal lifespan of a mount. The ultimate cause is the oil leak. If a customer is replacing a mount that’s soaked with oil, the oil leak should be addressed at the same time, or the new mount will quickly begin to degrade.
Abuse
Engine and transmission mounts are designed to withstand the normal use any given vehicle is designed for. Abuse comes from repeated hard acceleration or launches. “Power” braking a vehicle to prepare for a hard launch is another example. If a vehicle is modified to increase the power, this is more than the mounts were designed to handle and they can quickly be destroyed.
To combat this problem, many solutions have been used over the years to limit engine movement. A common “old-school” trick on muscle cars was to install a chain between the engine block and frame, and yes, we all did it, as silly as it might have looked!
Racers looked to solid engine mounts or engine plates to keep all that horsepower in check. Of course, that’s the extreme, and the development of polyurethane offers an in-between solution. Polyurethane is stronger than rubber and can handle more abuse, making these types of mounts very common for performance applications. But they don’t dampen vibration as well, so be prepared to sacrifice comfort.
Misalignment
A common but often overlooked cause is improper installation. Every mount has a specific procedure that should be followed for installation, allowing it to sit in its natural state when at rest. When these procedures aren’t followed, a mount can end up twisted or distorted at rest, which will lead to premature failure.
Active Engine Mounts
Active engine mounts are any that can vary the amount of dampening they provide, depending on engine speed. They utilize hydraulic fluid internally and either electric or vacuum control. When these go bad, it’s usually caused by aging rubber that cracks, allowing the hydraulic fluid to leak out. But, it also can be caused by a problem with the vacuum or electric controls. It may sound weird for someone to say, “My engine mount is leaking.” But, if they have an active engine mount, they may be right!.
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By garryhe
The replacement of link hidden, please login to viewis an important part of car maintenance, as the condition of the brake pads directly affects braking performance and safety during travel. When it is necessary to replace worn brake pads, it is generally recommended to replace the brake pads on both the front and rear wheels together.
Actually, in most cases, it is not necessary to replace the brake pads on both the front and rear wheels together. The wear and link hidden, please login to view of the front and rear brake pads are usually different. Under normal circumstances, the front brake pads experience greater braking force, resulting in higher wear and shorter lifespan. They typically need to be replaced around 30,000 to 50,000 kilometers. On the other hand, the rear brake pads endure relatively less braking force, meaning they last longer. Generally, they need to be replaced around 60,000 to 100,000 kilometers. When replacing brake pads, it is important to replace them together so that the braking force on both sides is balanced.
If both the link hidden, please login to view and link hidden, please login to viewhave a certain degree of wear, it is also possible to replace all four of them together.
When should brake pads be replaced, and how can you perform a self-check on them? Here are the methods:
Check the thickness: A new brake pad typically has a thickness of around 1.5 cm. As they wear over time, the thickness of the brake pad gradually decreases. Professionals recommend that when visually observing that the brake pad thickness is only about 1/3 (approximately 0.5 cm) of its original thickness, it is advisable to increase the frequency of self-checks and be prepared for replacement. Each brake pad has a raised indicator on both sides, with a thickness of around 2-3 mm. This indicator represents the minimum thickness for brake disc replacement. If the brake pad thickness is level with this indicator, it must be replaced.
suggestions：
It is indeed important to consider individual driving habits and environmental factors when determining the replacement interval for brake pads. While a general guideline is around 60,000 kilometers, it is advisable to have them inspected by a professional technician during regular vehicle maintenance when visually observing that the brake pads are thinning. This is because visual inspection can sometimes lead to errors, and a thorough examination by a qualified mechanic is more accurate and precise.
Listen for noises: If you hear a "squealing" sound when lightly applying the brakes, it could be an indication of the initial interaction between the brake pads and the brake rotor upon installation. In such cases, it is recommended to replace the brake pads immediately because they have already reached the limit where the indicator on both sides of the brake pad is directly rubbing against the brake rotor. When encountering this situation, it is important to inspect the brake rotor while replacing the brake pads. The occurrence of this sound often suggests that the brake rotor has been damaged. Even after replacing the brake pads, the noise may persist. In severe cases, it may be necessary to replace the brake rotor. Additionally, the quality of the brake pads can also contribute to the occurrence of such noises.
Therefore, once unusual noises occur during braking, if it is not caused by the brake pads, it is possible that excessive wear of the brake pads has led to direct contact between the brake pad indicator and the brake rotor, resulting in damage to the brake rotor. The cost of replacing a brake rotor is higher than that of brake pads. Therefore, it is advisable for vehicle owners to develop a habit of regularly observing and promptly replacing brake pads when necessary. This will help prevent potential damage to the brake rotors and ensure optimal braking performance.
If you feel a lack of braking power when applying the brakes, it is possible that the brake pads have significantly lost their friction. In such cases, it is crucial to replace the brake pads to avoid potential serious braking accidents.
Therefore, it is important to develop a good habit of self-checking. Additionally, decreased braking performance can lead to increased consumption of brake fluid. Therefore, when replacing brake pads, it is necessary to check the condition of the brake fluid as well. and you should change good quality link hidden, please login to viewor link hidden, please login to view.
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