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Oil filters play a vital role in the operation of a vehicle. Most counter professionals cringe when they hear a customer say, “Just give me the cheapest one.” Let’s talk about why that’s an especially risky request when a customer is looking for a replacement oil filter. Counterman Magazine: http://www.counterman.com
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By Auto News
Low power steering fluid is one reason why your car squeaks when turning the wheel. Does your car make a screeching noise when turning? There are several possible reasons why this is happening and it usually means you have to replace or fix a part or two. It’s always best to have a mechanic inspect your car to get a proper diagnosis but you can check out our list below to get an idea of what’s causing the problem.
Causes of Car Noise
Low amount of or contaminated power steering fluid – When your car makes a screeching noise when turning, it is possible your power steering fluid is running low. As you know, the fluid is used to lubricate your vehicle’s power steering system, so your car could squeal while you’re driving when you’ve lost too much fluid. Adding more fluid should fix the issue. Check out Auto Parts Warehouse for quality power steering fluid: http://bit.ly/2KcQSIK
It’s also possible that your car makes noises because your power steering fluid is contaminated with dirt and debris. In this case, you will have to replace all the fluid in your car.
Faulty power steering pump – The power steering pump needs lubrication to work properly. A damaged power steering pump due to low amount of fluid could be another cause of car noise when turning. Add fluid to solve the problem but if the noise remains, best consult a mechanic immediately as the pump might need to be replaced right away. Auto Parts Warehouse offers quality replacement power steering pumps right here: http://bit.ly/2ONDFF1
Dry suspension and steering components – Suspension and steering components such as tie-rod ends, seals, ball joints, and universal joints should be lubricated in order to function properly. Even a single dry part can contribute to noise when turning.
Loose belt – Squealing noises can also be due to a loose or worn out power steering belt. The power steering belt, which is responsible for supplying power to the power steering system, wears out or becomes loose due to constant use. Inspect for damage and replace it as soon as possible once you start hearing unusual noises.
Interior trim rubbing – It’s possible for new cars to have the steering wheel housing rub against the interior trim when the weather is hot. When temperatures are high, these materials expand, causing gaps to close and producing noises.
Tire issues – Underinflated tires, worn out tire treads, and loose wheel bolts can create screeching noise when turning. Always check if your tires and wheel cover are properly inflated and bolted. Tire rotation helps prevent treads from wearing out, so do it regularly.
Worn out brake pads – You must check your brake pads right away if your brakes squeal while you’re driving because it usually indicates that the pads are already worn out and need replacing. Don’t wait for this squealing noise to turn into a grinding noise because then it means you’ve already severely damaged your brake components.
Remember: your safety should be your primary concern while on the road, so check your car immediately when you start hearing unusual noises.
The post Why Does My Car Make a Noise When I Turn? appeared first on The Auto Parts Warehouse Blog.
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By Joe Pagone
Folks, following is my experience with the Napa in Washington, Pa. This situation is hard to believe. Unfortunately, not one person in this shop will do the right thing. I've been in the car business and hobby for near 40 years and never seen people so blatently dishonest. If you know someone in Napa who gives a hoot, and could help with this, please email me.
Downstairs of the parts store Napa has a their machine shop. Running this shop is George & his wife, Delores Jones. I dropped off a 1967 Pontiac 400 block, heads, tin, and rotating assembly. I needed the block boiled, bored .40 over, & decked. The heads needed hardened valve seats, regrinding of the valve seats and valve faces, and valves re-installed with new springs and keepers. decked, cleaned, & new valve seals installed. Also needed new bearings, and freeze plugs etc. Crank shaft to be cleaned and polished.
George claims to be a Pontiac specialist, Great! Before I left, George and I talked about him stopping by my place and bringing some of the tools I don't have and his Pontiac experience, he would make sure I was assembling the engine correctly. He agreed to do this for a reduced price, which I thought was very reasonable. I offered that we could make an evening of it, he could bring his wife, and we could cook a meal or order out ,and make some of his favorite chocolate chip cookies too.
Well after being told it would take 2 month, it actually took 7 months. I found out from another customer, he was not only telling other people about my business with him, he was making me out to be a fool, for not knowing how to assemble the engine. He actually PRETENDED to be a friend, and had NO intention of coming to my place.
Worse that that, what I received back was a joke. The heads were not decked, despite needing it, the block was not decked, the valve covers were crushed somehow, the heads were full of steel shot, the crank shaft had stuffed oil holes & was not polished at all, the original valve keepers were re-used, except for one, which was did not fit correctly, I'm guessing to replace one they lost. The oil galley plugs were replaced using white water pump bolt sealer, All the valves were ground by hand, not machine, leaving three of the completely ruined. The valves were re-ground and re-installed despite 3 valves being bent. On top of that the cam bearings were scratched up badly, and he had ordered parts I did not want.
When I told George about the poor and incorrect work, he became defensive, and refused to admit anything was wrong. They offered to un-bend the valve covers, and I let them try, it didn't work, George got mad again, and his boss William then refused to pay for originals, despite that being exactly what I had. They gave me under a hundred dollars to buy aftermarket covers, and that is all they refunded me.
As for the rest of the work done wrong or not at all, William the owner said, sue me. Then he and George said they would bring people to testify against me!
There is actually more to this, and it is worse than I wrote here, but this is the basic problem. I had to take the block, heads, and crankshaft to an engine shop in Uniontown, and re-spend the money to get the work I already paid Napa for.
By Erica Zhu Feilong Jiangli
According to foreign media reports, Eni and Hera have long been committed to technological research and development and business development, aiming at promoting the circular economy model. Recently, the two companies signed an agreement to convert used vegetable oil into biofuels for Hera's waste collection vehicles.
Hera will recycle waste vegetable oils from nearly 400 roadside containers and 120 collection centers and send them to the Biorefinery of Porto Marghera, Venice, under the Italian Eni Group.
The refinery is the first in the world to produce green Diesel using biorefinery technology and recycled waste vegetable oil. Green diesel is a recyclable product, accounting for 15% of Enidiesel + products. The biofuel could power Hera's urban waste collection vehicles. Initially, Enidiesel + will be used in nearly 30 large models in Modena area to test and optimize the environmental impact of the soft material.
Chongqing Feilong believes that everyone has the responsibility to protect the environment. Care for the environment, starting from me, starting from the dribs and drabs.
Advance Auto Parts, Inc. (NYSE: AAP) has acquired the DieHard brand from Transform Holdco LLC (“Transformco”), for $200 million utilizing cash on hand.
“We are excited to acquire global ownership of an iconic American brand. DieHard will help differentiate Advance, drive increased DIY customer traffic and build a unique value proposition for our Professional customers and Independent Carquest partners. DieHard has the highest brand awareness and regard of any automotive battery brand in North America and will enable Advance to build a leadership position within the critical battery category,” said Tom Greco, president and CEO, Advance Auto Parts. “DieHard stands for durability and reliability and we will strengthen and leverage the brand in other battery categories, such as marine and recreational vehicles. We also see opportunities to extend DieHard in other automotive categories. We remain committed to providing our customers with high-quality products and excellent service. The addition of DieHard to our industry leading assortment of national brands, OE parts and owned brands will enable us to differentiate Advance and drive significant long-term shareholder value.”
AmazonBasics High Mileage Motor Oil - Synthetic Blend
AmazonBasics high-mileage synthetic-blend motor oil offers an enhanced level of protection for engines over 75,000 miles. Its synthetic blend combines conventional oil with synthetic for cost efficiency with some of the benefits of a full synthetic. An important part of routine maintenance, the motor oil works well for anything from topping off levels to complete oil changes. Whether it’s a beloved older vehicle or one with an uncertain maintenance history, help protect its engine with AmazonBasics high-mileage, synthetic-blend motor oil.
When selecting parts for a car repair, it pays to know the differences between original and aftermarket parts. Whenever possible, get estimates for both.
Choosing between original and aftermarket car parts — and even used parts of either type — is all about squaring your priorities with your budget.
You’ll have different options depending on the part and the shop. And the best choice will depend on whether you’re trying to keep repairs cheap, restore your car’s appearance after a wreck or soup up your ride.
Original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts match those that came with your car, and are of the same quality as its original parts. They’re also the most expensive.
The factory-recommended replacement intervals for filters can vary quite a bit depending on the year, make and model of the vehicle, as well as how it is driven. As a rule, older vehicles (those more than 15 to 20 years old) typically have more frequent service intervals than newer vehicles. Why? Because late-model vehicles require less maintenance, thanks to improvements in motor oils, transmission fluids, engine design and filter media.
Many long-life air and oil filters use synthetic fiber media or a blend of cellulose and synthetic fibers to extend filter life.
Changing the oil and filter every 3,000 miles was standard practice decades ago. But it’s no longer necessary because most multi-viscosity oils today are a synthetic blend or a full synthetic that resist viscosity breakdown and oxidation for a much longer period of time. Late-model fuel-injected engines also run much cleaner than their carbureted ancestors, which reduces oil contamination in the crankcase.
Air filters, cabin air filters, oil filters and (sometimes) fuel and transmission filters are important maintenance parts that typically are replaced according to a time and/or mileage schedule. A vehicle’s service schedule recommendations can be found in the owner’s manual or in a separate brochure. Unfortunately, many motorists never read – or totally ignore – the recommendations.
Factory service schedules are designed to prolong the life of the engine, transmission and cooling system, to reduce premature wear and breakdowns, but also to minimize maintenance costs while the vehicle is still under warranty. That’s why factory oil change recommendations have been stretched to 7,500 to 10,000 miles or more on many late-model vehicles. Most late-model cars and light trucks no longer have recommended change intervals for transmission fluid and filters, or for fuel filters. These so-called “lifetime” fluids and filters are supposed to last a long time – but they won’t last forever. Experience has shown that “lifetime” filters and fluids don’t live up to the hype.
Fuel filters always should be replaced when a fuel pump is replaced (unless the filter is part of the fuel pump module assembly). Likewise, transmission filters should be replaced if a customer is changing the fluid in their transmission.
Last Line of Defense Against Contaminants
Filters are the first line of defense against contaminants. Air filters keep dirt and abrasive particles out of the engine. A good-quality air filter will trap about 98 percent or more of the particles that can cause trouble inside an engine. As the filter media becomes saturated with dirt, it’s efficiency actually increases. But, as the filter becomes clogged with more and more dirt, it also becomes more restrictive to airflow. The greater the pressure drop across the filter, the more it hurts performance and fuel economy.