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Cell Phone Car Mounts - What do you use?
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Economic factors may lead to a decline in new car sales in the United States in 2019
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By abenleulmi
Guide to Uploading ECU Pinout Connections on a Bench Modern vehicles are equipped with sophisticated Electronic Control Units (ECUs) that manage various aspects of the vehicle's functioning, from engine performance to safety systems. When dealing with complex ECU troubleshooting or tuning tasks, it's often beneficial to work on the ECU outside of the vehicle, commonly referred to as the "bench." This guide will walk you through the process of connecting to your ECU on a bench using different methods like OBD, Bootmode Tricore, JTag, and BDM. Specifically, we will focus on the crucial aspect of pinout connections.
It is a pinout for this ECU:
Bosch EDC 7 (DAF Truck)
Bosch EDC 7 (Iveco Truck)
Bosch EDC 7 (MAN Truck)
Bosch EDC 7C1 (Volvo Penta)
Bosch EDC 17C06 - DDE 70 (BMW)
Bosch EDC 17C08 (Hyundai)
Bosch EDC 17C08 (Kia)
Bosch EDC 17C10 (Citroen)
Bosch EDC 17C11 (Renault)
Bosch EDC 17C18 (Chevrolet)
Bosch EDC 17C18 (Holden)
Bosch EDC 17C18 (Opel)
Bosch EDC 17C18 (Vauxhall)
Bosch EDC 17C19 (Holden)
Bosch EDC 17C19 (Opel)
Bosch EDC 17C19 (Vauxhall)
Bosch EDC 17C41 - DDE 721 (BMW)
Bosch EDC 17C41 - DDE 721 (Mini)
Bosch EDC 17C42 (Holden)
Bosch EDC 17C42 (Opel)
Bosch EDC 17C42 (Vauxhall)
Bosch EDC 17C46 (Audi)
Bosch EDC 17C46 (Seat)
Bosch EDC 17C46 (Skoda)
Bosch EDC 17C46 (Volkswagen)
Bosch EDC 17C49 (Alfa Romeo)
Bosch EDC 17C49 (Fiat)
Bosch EDC 17C49 (Lancia)
Bosch EDC 17C54 (Audi)
Bosch EDC 17C54 (Seat)
Bosch EDC 17C54 (Skoda)
Bosch EDC 17C54 (Volkswagen)
Bosch EDC 17C59 (Opel)
Bosch EDC 17CP01 (AMG)
Bosch EDC 17CP01 (Mercedes Benz)
Bosch EDC 17CP02 - DDE 71 (BMW)
Bosch EDC 17CP04 (Audi)
Bosch EDC 17CP04 (Seat)
Bosch EDC 17CP04 (Skoda)
Bosch EDC 17CP04 (Vokswagen)
Bosch EDC 17CP06 (Honda)
Bosch EDC 17CP07 (Toyota)
Bosch EDC 17CP09 - DDE 73 (BMW)
Bosch EDC 17CP10 (AMG)
Bosch EDC 17CP10 (Mercedes Benz)
Bosch EDC 17CP11 (Citroen)
Bosch EDC 17CP11 (Range Rover)
Bosch EDC 17CP14 (Audi)
Bosch EDC 17CP14 (Hyundai)
Bosch EDC 17CP14 (Kia)
Bosch EDC 17CP14 (Porsche)
Bosch EDC 17CP14 (Seat)
Bosch EDC 17CP14 (Skoda)
Bosch EDC 17CP14 (Volkswagen)
Bosch EDC 17CP16 (Honda)
Bosch EDC 17CP20 (Audi)
Bosch EDC 17CP20 (Seat)
Bosch EDC 17CP20 (Skoda)
Bosch EDC 17CP20 (Volkswagen)
Bosch EDC 17CP22 (Volvo)
Bosch EDC 17CP24 (Audi)
Bosch EDC 17CP24 (Seat)
Bosch EDC 17CP24 (Skoda)
Bosch EDC 17CP24 (Volkswagen)
Bosch EDC 17CP27 (Jeep)
Bosch EDC 17CP42 (Range Rover)
Bosch EDC 17CP44 (Audi)
Bosch EDC 17CP44 (Porsche)
Bosch EDC 17CP44 (Seat)
Bosch EDC 17CP44 (Skoda)
Bosch EDC 17CP44 (Volkswagen)
Bosch EDC 17CP45 - DDE 731 (Mini)
Bosch EDC 17CP46 (AMG)
Bosch EDC 17CP46 (Mercedes Benz)
Bosch EDC 17CP48 (Volvo)
Bosch EDC 17CP50 (Honda)
Bosch EDC 17CP52 (Iveco)
Bosch EDC 17U01 (Audi)
Bosch EDC 17U01 (Seat)
Bosch EDC 17U01 (Skoda)
Bosch EDC 17U01 (Volkswagen)
Bosch EDC 17U05 (Audi)
Bosch EDC 17U05 (Seat)
Bosch EDC 17U05 (Skoda)
Bosch EDC 17U05 (Volkswagen)
Bosch M 1.5.5 (Alfa Romeo)
Bosch M 5.2 (BMW)
Bosch M 5.2.1 (BMW)
Bosch ME 1.5.5 (Holden)
Bosch ME 1.5.5 (Opel)
Bosch ME 1.5.5 (Vauxhall)
Bosch ME 2.0 (AMG)
Bosch ME 2.0 (Mercedes Benz)
Bosch ME 2.1 (Alfa Romeo)
Bosch ME 2.1 (AMG)
Bosch ME 2.1 (Fiat)
Bosch ME 2.1 (Lancia)
Bosch ME 2.1 (Mercedes Benz)
Bosch ME 2.7 (Maybach)
Bosch ME 2.7 (Mercedes Benz)
Bosch ME 2.7.1 (AMG)
Bosch ME 2.7.1 (Mercedes Benz)
Bosch ME 2.7.2 (AMG)
Bosch ME 2.7.2 (Mercedes Benz)
Bosch ME 2.8 (AMG)
Bosch ME 2.8 (Mc Laren)
Bosch ME 2.8 (Mercedes Benz)
Bosch ME 2.8.1 (Chrysler)
Bosch ME 2.8.1 (Jeep)
Bosch ME 17.8.42 (KTM)
Continental SID 208 (Ford)
Continental SID 208 (Land Rover)
Continental SID 807 EVO (Citroen)
Continental SID 807 EVO (Ford)
Continental SID 807 EVO (Peugeot)
Continental SID 807 EVO (Renault)
Continental SID 807 EVO (Volvo)
Denso DEC 30 (Holden)
Denso DEC 30 (Opel)
Denso DEC 30 (Vauxhall)
Sagem 2000 (Citroen)
Sagem 2000 (Peugeot)
Sagem 2000 (Renault)
Sagem 3000 (Citroen)
Sagem 3000 (Renault)
Visteon DCU 101 (Ford)
Visteon DCU 102 (Citroen)
Visteon DCU 102 (Ford)
Visteon DCU 102 (Peugeot)
Visteon DCU 104 (Ford)
Visteon DCU 106 (Land Rover)
Visteon DCU 204 (Ford)
Delphi (Ford)
Delphi (Isuzu)
Delphi (Ssang Young)
Delphi 21.06 (Mercedes Benz)
Delphi 50.05 (Mercedes Benz)
Delphi 50.06 (Mercedes Benz)
Delphi DCM 1.2 (Citroen)
Delphi DCM 1.2 (Dacia)
Delphi DCM 1.2 (Peugeot)
Delphi DCM 1.2 (Renault)
Delphi DDCR CR-U (Hyundai)
Delphi DDCR CR-U (Kia)
Delphi HSFI 2.1 (Holden)
Delphi HSFI 2.1 (Opel)
Delphi HSFI 2.1 (Vauxhall)
Delphi HSFI 2.4 (Holden)
Delphi HSFI 2.4 (Opel)
Delphi HSFI 2.4 (Vauxhall)
Delphi HSFI 2.5 (Opel)
Delphi HSFI C (Holden)
Delphi HSFI C (Opel)
Delphi HSFI C (Vauxhall)
Delphi LJ604 (DAF Truck)
Magneti Marelli IAW 4AV (Volkswagen)
Magneti Marelli IAW 4CV (Volkswagen)
Magneti Marelli IAW 4LV (Volkswagen)
Magneti Marelli IAW 6LPB (Peugeot)
Magneti Marelli MJD 6J0 (Fiat)
EFI CAMPI 0xS (Lamborghini)
EFI Exige S (Lotus)
GMPT Tronic 5 (Saab)
Motorola ECM 0402 (Mercury)
Motorola S 6 (Scania)
John Deere CNTRL L6 (John Deere) link hidden, please login to view
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By abenleulmi
The thermostat is a crucial component in your car's engine system, playing a vital role in regulating the engine temperature. Contrary to common beliefs, removing your car's thermostat can lead to severe consequences, affecting fuel efficiency and engine lifespan. In this article, we will explore the benefits of retaining the thermostat and explain why removing it should be avoided. link hidden, please login to view -
By Counterman
Of all the different mounts on a vehicle, the most attention is given to engine and transmission mounts. Why? Because they cause the most noticeable symptoms when they go bad, and they go bad the most often. But why do they fail?
The answer lies in what they are and what they do. A mount is nothing more than a specific component that secures one item to another. However, what separates a mount from a bracket, for example, is its ability to prevent vibration transfer between the two components. In the case of an engine or transmission mount, they isolate vibration transfer to the vehicle frame, as well as dampen the movement of the powertrain.
This makes vehicle operation smoother for the driver, but the necessity of them is greater than just comfort. They also prevent the fatigue and cracking of metal – an occurrence that would be commonplace if engines were bolted directly to the frames. It takes no wild guess to figure out that rubber is the material responsible for it all. Take a piece of rubber, bond it between two pieces of metal, and you have a mount.
So, getting down to it, here’s why they fail.
Age
Rubber weakens with age, just like it does on tires. Now think of the force that’s exerted on an engine mount every time you accelerate. The torque of the engine attempts to twist it, pulling and stretching on one mount and pushing and collapsing another. Do this over and over again thousands of times and it’s impressive that these mounts last as long as they do.
Sometimes the rubber just tears. Other times it separates from one of the metal plates that it’s bonded or secured to. Some mounts may not tear or separate, based on their enclosed design, but the rubber can shrink or become distorted, allowing for excessive movement. It’s all just about age and use. It just happens.
Contamination
Rubber and oil don’t like each other much. Oil degrades the integrity of the rubber, causing it to soften and swell. Oil contamination is common on engine or transmission mounts due to engine-oil or transmission-fluid leaks. Eventually, the rubber tears or separates, but prematurely compared to the normal lifespan of a mount. The ultimate cause is the oil leak. If a customer is replacing a mount that’s soaked with oil, the oil leak should be addressed at the same time, or the new mount will quickly begin to degrade.
Abuse
Engine and transmission mounts are designed to withstand the normal use any given vehicle is designed for. Abuse comes from repeated hard acceleration or launches. “Power” braking a vehicle to prepare for a hard launch is another example. If a vehicle is modified to increase the power, this is more than the mounts were designed to handle and they can quickly be destroyed.
To combat this problem, many solutions have been used over the years to limit engine movement. A common “old-school” trick on muscle cars was to install a chain between the engine block and frame, and yes, we all did it, as silly as it might have looked!
Racers looked to solid engine mounts or engine plates to keep all that horsepower in check. Of course, that’s the extreme, and the development of polyurethane offers an in-between solution. Polyurethane is stronger than rubber and can handle more abuse, making these types of mounts very common for performance applications. But they don’t dampen vibration as well, so be prepared to sacrifice comfort.
Misalignment
A common but often overlooked cause is improper installation. Every mount has a specific procedure that should be followed for installation, allowing it to sit in its natural state when at rest. When these procedures aren’t followed, a mount can end up twisted or distorted at rest, which will lead to premature failure.
Active Engine Mounts
Active engine mounts are any that can vary the amount of dampening they provide, depending on engine speed. They utilize hydraulic fluid internally and either electric or vacuum control. When these go bad, it’s usually caused by aging rubber that cracks, allowing the hydraulic fluid to leak out. But, it also can be caused by a problem with the vacuum or electric controls. It may sound weird for someone to say, “My engine mount is leaking.” But, if they have an active engine mount, they may be right!.
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By Counterman
Counterman’s “
link hidden, please login to view” contest challenges our readers to solve an automotive riddle, for a chance to win $100. And each month, we receive hundreds of responses from aftermarket professionals trying to guess the model of the vehicle depicted. The correct answer for the June/July contest is the MINI Clubman. The winner is Dan Peterson, a counterman at Bumper to Bumper in Batavia, Illinois.
Now, let’s get to know the “Guess the Car” champion.
CM: How long have you been working in the auto parts business?
DP: Since 2017. I started out part-time as a driver.
CM: What do you like most about your job?
DP: The variety. Every day is different; it’s not the same old thing. This store has a real small-town feel. A lot of people have been coming for years. I’m a hometown guy, so I recognize a lot of people. It’s always good to connect and see people you know.
CM: What’s the coolest car you’ve ever owned or worked on?
DP: I bought a brand-new Jeep CJ-5 in 1976 just before I enlisted in the Air Force. Unfortunately, I was without it for two years when I went to Germany. When I got back, I was stationed in Nevada at Nellis Air Force Base, so I got to do a lot of offroading and exploring. Anything that didn’t say “No Trespassing” was fair game.
CM: Do you have any interesting hobbies? What do you do for fun?
DP: I have a Harley that I ride. Two years ago, my friend and I did the “Iron Butt” challenge, which is 1,000 miles in less than 24 hours. We rode from Batavia, Illinois, to Gillette, Wyoming. They make you turn in all your gas receipts and pictures of your odometer every time you fill up, and I think they calculated it at 1,097 miles.
CM: What was that experience like?
DP: It was going along smoothly until we hit a hailstorm near Wall, South Dakota, and that pretty much took the wind out of our sails for several hours. We were close to 17 or 18 hours when we finally pulled into our destination. They do another [challenge] called the “Bun Burner,” which is 1,500 miles in 36 hours. We may try that yet, but I don’t know – we’re getting old.
CM: What’s your dream car?
DP: My dream car right now is I want to buy a high-roof van and convert it to a motorcycle hauler/camper, put some fold-down cots in it and all the solar panels and all that type of stuff. My wife and I travel on the bike quite often, but she thinks sometimes we’d be better-served by driving to our destination and then riding once we get there.
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