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Camshaft and Crankshaft Sensors
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By Counterman
Continental has added eight new part numbers to its line of OEM knock sensors.
The sensors are the same part that the vehicle manufacturer uses and deliver the exact fit, form and function as the original part, ensuring an easy installation and long service life, according to Continental.
The eight new part numbers provide application coverage for some of the most popular domestic, European and Asian makes and models on the road today. The expanded line covers Chrysler, Dodge, Ford, Infiniti, Jeep, Lincoln, Mercedes-Benz, Mercury, Nissan and Ram models ranging from 2000 to 2023. The new sensors provide coverage for 28.8 million vehicles in operation (VIO) in the United States and 2.4 million vehicles in Canada.
“Our newly expanded line was developed to meet the growing need for reliable knock sensors on some of the most common vehicles on the road today,” noted Brendan Bachant, Continental product manager for engine management and fuel. “The original sensors can be prone to failure due to mechanical damage, excessive vibration, high engine temperatures, and corrosion. Continental has made these OEM sensors available to the aftermarket so that professional technicians can easily and confidently service the most common vehicles in the shop, like the Ford F-150 and Explorer, the Jeep Wrangler and the Nissan Maxima and Altima. Technicians can be confident when choosing the Continental knock sensor that they will avoid comebacks.”
Knock sensors are designed to detect engine ping caused by pre-ignition and relay the information to the electronic control unit to adjust engine timing and help keep the engine running smoothly. These sensors are an ideal repair for a rough-running engine with a timing and knock-sensor fault code and will help shops to restore the performance of their customers’ vehicles to OE specifications, according to Continental.
Continental knock sensors are built in ISO-certified facilities to deliver the highest level of dependability, the company noted.
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By Counterman
As modern cars and light trucks continue to grow in complexity, their maintenance needs are changing. Component failures that were commonplace just a decade or two ago are becoming much less common today.
An example of this is the throttle-position sensor (TPS). This small plastic sensor would be mounted on the throttle body, usually on the opposite of the throttle cable. The TPS was used to tell the engine control unit (ECU) what angle the throttle body was being opened to by the driver, and the ECU would adjust the fuel as needed based on this data as well as other inputs.
A faulty TPS reading can cause a number of drivability concerns, including:
• Unexplained bucking or jerking of the engine
• Surging engine idle
• Engine stalling, stumbling or hesitation
These sensors were rather inexpensive and usually pretty easy to replace. They didn’t fail too often, but I can remember having to replace them on a few of my own vehicles, as well as some customer vehicles. So what happened to throttle-position sensors, and why don’t we see them as often today?
Throttle-By-Wire
Throttle-by-wire technology has been called by many names, but it operates on a simple principle – an electronic throttle body is used to meter the air entering the engine. This electronic throttle body is controlled by the ECU based on a number of inputs including accelerator-pedal position, mass airflow, manifold air pressure, wheel speed and more. But the important thing to understand is that there is no longer a mechanical link between the accelerator pedal under the dashboard and the throttle body on the engine. So why is this important?
By decoupling the accelerator pedal from the throttle body, automakers are able to precisely control the throttle angle in all operating conditions to maximize throttle response and traction, reduce emissions and improve fuel economy. Throttle-by-wire systems are able to maximize the benefits of variable-valve timing and direct fuel injection by precisely controlling how much air is introduced to the engine.
With the advent of throttle-by-wire systems, we’ve seen a change in how the ECU measures the throttle position. The TPS still is being used today, but it’s now incorporated into the electronic throttle body. In fact, some electronic throttle bodies may contain more than one TPS. By using multiple sensors, the ECU can monitor and compare both sensor inputs. Redundancy in electronic systems can be a very good thing.
We’ll talk more about the pros and cons of throttle-by-wire a little bit later, but the fact that the TPS is now incorporated into the electronic throttle body can be a big drawback down the road. You see, it means that the system is now less serviceable than it was in the past. If a TPS failed on a cable-driven throttle body, you could replace the sensor for around $30 to $40 and be back on the road. If a TPS fails inside an electronic throttle body, now you have to replace the entire unit, and that could cost hundreds of dollars.
Then, after the electronic throttle body has been replaced, you’ll need to perform a “relearn procedure” so the ECU can learn how the new throttle body reacts to input, and where the internal mechanical stops are located. Failing to perform this critical step can cause a number of drivability concerns, and a costly customer comeback.
There has been a trend in the automotive space for quite some time now where components are becoming more and more “modular.” When I say “modular,” I really mean “pre-assembled.” After all, vehicles are engineered to go down the assembly line as fast as possible. They’re not engineered to be easy to work on. So it makes sense that automakers would get creative with incorporating certain components together into a modular assembly that can be installed more quickly. Of course, the major drawback with this idea is that the replacement costs are increased, and that cost will eventually fall onto the vehicle owner once the warranty period expires.
Advantages & Disadvantages of Throttle-By-Wire
Throttle-by-wire systems offer a number of advantages. They contain fewer moving parts, so that means less maintenance and lower overall vehicle weight. Their precision allows for improved fuel economy and reduced tailpipe emissions, as well as a better overall driving experience for the typical driver. Finally, the throttle body can be used to help the traction or stability control regain vehicle control.
These systems also have a few drawbacks. They’re more expensive to develop, manufacture and replace. They’re more complex due to the wiring and electronic control units that are used. Some drivers may complain about a time delay or “lag” in engine response after they change their accelerator-pedal input.
Finally, they’re harder to service for technicians. Sure, there aren’t any cables or linkage points to grease or maintain, but the real difficulty lies in the electronic controls. Complex wiring and communication systems are needed in order to control the electronic throttle body and related systems. There also are special procedures that must be followed whenever servicing the electronic throttle body. If an electronic throttle body is replaced, the relearn procedure must be performed. This has a profound effect on engine performance, drivability and idle quality.
If you find yourself selling a replacement electronic throttle body to a customer, there are a few questions you should be asking. Do they have a scan tool that’s capable of bi-directional control? A simple code reader won’t work here. They need the real thing in order to relearn the new electronic throttle body. Many electronic throttle bodies are installed in plastic intake manifolds, so it’s a good idea to sell them a new throttle-body seal as well. Finally, it’s a good idea to check with the customer to see if they’ve inspected the wiring harness and connections for any signs of rubbing, fraying or other issues. These sorts of problems can come back to bite them later on down the road.
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By NAPA
Engine coolant keeps the waste heat of the combustion process at bay. There’s no denying the importance coolant plays in keeping an engine running, but how do you know when it needs to be changed? But also to make sure your coolant is doing its job it needs to be monitored by a coolant sensor. Let’s look at how to test engine coolant, how to pressure test a cooling system, and equally important how to test coolant temp sensor operation.
Why Test Engine Coolant?
Your engine coolant is part of an enclosed system, but that system consists of many components of varying materials. Over time under the stress of extreme heat exposure the coolant loses some of its ability to control and conduct those temperatures. There are also parts of the cooling system that can corrode internally leaving tiny rust flakes that act like silty mud. There are all reasons why your engine coolant needs to be tested and periodically replaced when it has reached the end of its service life. But you need to test not only for the right coolant mixture ratio, but also the chemical composition of the coolant.
Testing Engine Coolant Ratio link hidden, please login to view
The easiest way to test coolant mixing ratio with an
link hidden, please login to viewr. This neat little device tests the specific gravity of the coolant using either little colored floating balls or a swing arm. The balls and swing arm are calibrated to float at different levels based on the specific gravity of the coolant. Simply draw coolant into the antifreeze tester and compare the results to the included chart. Typically on a floating ball type tester the higher the concentration of ethylene glycol, the more balls that float. You can then estimate the freezing point of the coolant and how well you are protected against the cold. Just be aware that there are different testers for propylene glycol and ethylene glycol, so choose a tester that matches what is used in your cooling system. For a more accurate measurement of your coolant’s freezing point you can use a refractometer. There are
link hidden, please login to viewand link hidden, please login to viewrefractometers but they both work on the same idea. Simply place a few sample drops of coolant in the tool. For the analog refractometer you then look through the eyepiece and read the inside gauge. For the digital refractometer you just have to push a button and the reading will be displayed on the screen. You will need to read the instructions and be familiar with the tool to understand what the results of each one means to the specific gravity of your coolant. Testing Engine Coolant Condition
As mentioned earlier your coolant can actually degrade over time. Luckily a simple
link hidden, please login to viewcan give you a glimpse of what is in your coolant. When the engine is cool and depressurized (never work on a hot engine’s cooling system) just remove the radiator cap and dip in a testing strip. Make sure to read the directions included with the testing strip to make sure you get a good reading. Most test strips can tell you the pH level, nitrate concentration level, and liquid freeze point. If any of these readings are out of specification, it is time for a link hidden, please login to viewand refill. How To Test A Coolant Temp Sensor
Knowing how to test coolant temp sensor output is a bit more technical. You will need a multimeter to read the resistance of the coolant temp sensor during the test. You will also need to remove the coolant temp sensor from your vehicle, so refer to a repair manual for the specific procedure. For sensor range testing you will need a container of ice water and a container of boiling water. Finally you need the factory sensor range specifications (usually found in the repair manual) along with a pen and paper to take notes.
Once you have the sensor out of the vehicle attach it to the connections on the multimeter. Most sensors have two connections and since you are testing resistance, it does not matter which order is used. If your sensor has more than two connections refer to a vehicle wiring diagram to find the ground connection and the voltage input connection.
You will be testing engine coolant temperature sensor resistance output in cold water and hot water, then comparing the two readings to the factory specification found in your repair manual. Check the temperature of the ice water to make sure it is as close to freezing as possible (32 degrees F or 0 degrees C). Set the voltmeter to the 20,000 ohm range. Dip the tip of the sensor in the cold water and observe the reading on the multimeter. When the reading stops changing, write it down on the paper as the cold reading. Repeat the same process with the boiling water, being careful to hold the sensor with tongs or similar tool to reduce the chance of touching the boiling water. Write down the hot temperature reading from the multimeter.
Now you can compare the two voltage readings to the factory sensor specifications. If the readings are not within specifications the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Now that you know the steps for how to test an engine coolant temperature sensor, you can decide if it is worth your time or if the sensor is cheap enough to just replace it and move on.
How To Pressure Test A Coolant System
Luckily learning how to pressure test coolant system components is pretty easy. You will need an
link hidden, please login to view which looks like a bicycle tire pump attached to a universal radiator cap. Start with a cool engine (never work on a hot engine cooling system under pressure). Remove the radiator cap or coolant reservoir cap if so equipped. Attach the pressure tester to the same place where you just removed the radiator cap or reservoir cap. The pressure tester may have a universal rubber fitting or come with an array of adapters to connect with your particular cooling system. Now use the pump to add pressurized air to the cooling system. Watch the pressure gauge on the pressure tester and add roughly 15 psi of pressure (but no more than that). The pressure gauge should hold steady indicating no leaks. If the pressure gauge goes down or does not register any pressure, double check your pressure tester connection just in case. If the system will not hold pressure, you will need to repair the leak. You can use link hidden, please login to view to help locate the leak if it is not easily apparent. Check out all the
link hidden, please login to view available on link hidden, please login to view or trust one of our 17,000 link hidden, please login to view for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on how to test engine coolant sensor output and other cooling system parts, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your link hidden, please login to view. The post
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By Counterman
Alligator sens.it RS universal TPMS sensors now cover the 2020-2021 Ford Bronco.
“This vehicle has hit the market by storm and Alligator is proud to offer service for this impressive new SUV,” Alligator said in a news release.
The all-terrain Bronco is another addition to the expanding list of Ford vehicles that can automatically learn and detect TPMS sensors once installed into each wheel assembly, or if rotating tires at regular intervals.
Alligator offers these instructions: Simply install the new Alligator sens.it RS universal TPMS sensors, then begin driving the SUV, and the system will register the new IDs automatically while driving. Based on the instruction manual, make sure to park the vehicle the required amount of time for the TPMS system to enter into relearn mode (usually 20 minutes).
The Alligator sens.it RS universal TPMS sensor also supports location detection, so when rotating tires, there’s no need to reset the system manually. Simply follow the same procedure as auto-learning and the display will show the new tire locations on the dash after driving for a few minutes.
“By continuing to use Alligator sens.it RS universal TPMS sensors, shops can ensure they are working with a part that supports the full range of OE features, which helps make the job easier, reduces unnecessary downtime in the bay for TPMS learning or general sensor issues, helps the bottom line and, most importantly, keeps customers happy and coming back,” the company said. “When replacing OEM sensors with aftermarket sensors, rest assured that RS Series TPMS sensors from Alligator will provide all the functionality your car delivers. Regardless of the tool you use to program your Alligator TPMS sensors, this new application should be available for programming after you complete the latest update.”
Alligator is a brand of
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By Counterman
At the same time the auto industry was dipping its toes into technology, I was your typical high school adolescent who only cared about the cars I could afford – which at that time was nothing newer than mid-‘70s iron.
The only language I knew was that of carburetors, camshafts, headers and hot rods, and growing up in a college town, I thought lambda was a fraternity. In a few short years when I entered both the auto repair industry and technical college, I found out I had a lot to learn.
All of a sudden, I had to learn technology, which required first off to learn the terminology. Oxygen (O2) sensors were new to me, and then throwing in the term “lambda” made it all seem complicated. I eventually learned that it really wasn’t, but I also learned not to get wrapped up in all the overly technical jargon.
From a technician standpoint, I needed to understand how things worked – not re-engineer them – so here’s what I taught myself to know about O2 sensors, and I promise I won’t use the word “lambda” … at least for a while.
O2 sensors have a simple function. They generate voltage, and their job in an automotive context is to provide a varying output voltage in response to the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. Determining the amount of oxygen in the exhaust is what allows modern engine-management systems to calculate the efficiency of the combustion process and adjust the fuel delivery to maintain the correct air/fuel ratio.
So, how do they do this? The principal is an electrochemical reaction that takes place, the catalyst for which is the difference between the amount of oxygen in the air we breathe compared to the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. In order to get the “outside” sample of air, some O2 sensors have provisions that allow air into the body of the sensor; others have a sealed sample inside.
One of the important factors in the operation of an O2 sensor is heat. The bottom line is they can’t produce an accurate signal until they’re warmed up. Until an O2 sensor is warmed up, the computer will run the engine in a mode called open loop. All this means is that it’s running on pre-programmed parameters, but it also means it’s not running efficiently since it’s not yet utilizing the critical data from the O2 sensor that it needs to adjust the air/fuel ratio.
When the O2 sensor warms up, the engine computer will switch to closed-loop operation, meaning it’s now adjusting the air/fuel ratio based on the input it receives from the sensor(s). Since this is so important for emissions, the quicker the O2 sensor warms up, the better. Location or placement in the exhaust has an effect on how quickly they warm up, but the two biggest factors are the addition of built-in heaters and higher idle rpm when the engine is cold.
High rpm also is important to warm up the catalytic converter, since they don’t work efficiently until warm either. But enough of that. Let’s move on.
AFR Sensors
So, you have an idea of what an O2 sensor does and when it does it. It’s time to throw a wrench in the works. There’s another sensor called an air/fuel ratio (AFR) sensor. An AFR sensor also is called (or nicknamed) a wideband O2 sensor. What they ultimately do is the same thing, and up to this point in the article, feel free to switch the term O2 with AFR.
They also look basically the same and mount the same. We often call them all O2 sensors, and nobody gets really hung up on it, because they’re close enough. AFR sensors, however, have different operating parameters because they have a wider range and are able to provide more precise information to the vehicle computer. They simply are a more accurate version of an O2 sensor.
The fact that they operate differently is obviously critical for diagnostics, but it’s also just as important from the standpoint of replacement. The only acceptable replacement is a sensor that is specified for the exact vehicle in the exact location on the vehicle. An O2 sensor won’t work in place of an AFR sensor, or vice-versa. Some vehicles also have both types of sensors installed, making it more important to confirm which sensor is being replaced.
Most modern vehicles have two sensors on each bank of the engine. An inline engine only has one bank (with the exception of a couple strange anomalies out there that you may run across), and any V-configured engine has two banks. When you sell an O2 or AFR sensor, you’ll need to know the location referenced as Bank 1 Sensor 1, Bank 1 Sensor 2, Bank 2 Sensor 1 and so on.
Real-World Operation
Let’s touch briefly on operation. Ideally, we would like to make an engine run at the perfect air/fuel ratio (referred to as stoichiometric ratio) at all times. In the real world, that’s not possible due to constantly changing parameters of engine operation, so the best we can do is allow the engine computer to make constant adjustments.
An O2 sensor (not an AFR sensor) is only able to send basic voltage signals of rich or lean. When it sends either signal, the control unit reacts and adjusts the fuel mixture. So, for example, if it sees a rich signal, it will continue to lean out the mixture until it sees a lean signal. As soon as it sees a lean signal, it then will begin to enrich the mixture until it sees a rich signal. This all happens really fast of course, and on an oscilloscope, normal O2 operation will look like a consistent waveform ranging from about .2 volts (a lean signal) to approximately .8 volts (a rich signal). As long as the average between the high and low readings is about .45 volts (450 millivolts), we know that the sensor is operating correctly, and the control unit is able to maintain the proper fuel mixture.
An AFR sensor operates in conjunction with the control unit through current flow. The current flow changes direction for rich or lean, and when the mixture is at the stoichiometric ratio, current flow stops. The AFR sensor also increases or decreases the current flow (in either direction) in direct proportion to the changing rich or lean condition. This provides much more information to the control unit, allowing it to better predict and control fuel mixture.
On an oscilloscope, normal operation is similar to that of an O2 sensor, but the voltage can vary in a range from 0 up to 5 volts. Lower voltage indicates a rich signal, whereas higher voltage indicates a
lean signal.
I may have bridged the gap of too much technical information, but it’s all more knowledge you can share with your customer and use to your advantage when explaining the importance of a quality sensor. Undoubtedly, you’re also going to be asked two things. One, how to tell if a sensor is bad; and two, tips about replacement.
Diagnosis
Diagnosing a sensor can be difficult when it comes down to the level of using an oscilloscope, primarily because it takes a lot of experience to get familiar with reading the waveforms. So, here’s a good way to approach it when your customer asks.
Generally speaking, a customer buying an O2 sensor is almost always trying to “fix” the “Check Engine” light because of an O2-sensor code. If the stored code is related to the sensor heater, diagnosis should be easy. The control unit provides power and ground to the heater, and wiring problems are very common. Check for power and ground at the sensor connector wires. If you have it, the sensor heater is bad and the sensor needs replaced. If you don’t have it, there’s a wiring issue.
If the code is related to sensor operation, it could be a bad sensor, bad wiring or another problem such as a vacuum leak or leaking injector. You have to be careful about misdiagnosis, so it’s fair to recommend your customer have the problem professionally diagnosed. However, it’s a fact that O2 and AFR sensors will wear out with age.
Since we know it’s a chemical reaction that takes place to make them work, think of it like a traditional car battery. A chemical reaction takes place to generate electricity in a battery, and over time the ability for that chemical reaction to take place diminishes. The same is true with an O2 or AFR sensor. They simply wear out. Don’t be afraid to recommend them based on age.
O2 and AFR sensors also are very sensitive electronic devices, and they can be damaged by coolant, engine oil, incorrect fuel or silicone and sealants that are not safe for use with them, so beware of these other outside possibilities that can
ruin them.
Installation Tips
When asked about installation, here are some tips. All sensors, O2 or AFR, are 22 millimeters. There are many different O2-sensor sockets, which are designed to allow you to remove the sensor without damaging the wiring harness. This is really only important if you are removing a sensor for access to another repair.
If the sensor is bad, there’s no need to worry about the wires. Cut them off at the sensor and use a 22-millimeter wrench or socket. The most common thing that happens during replacement is that you break the sensor loose, get about a quarter-turn on it and it locks up. You have to be patient at this point and allow penetrating oil time to work its way in, then slowly work the sensor back and forth until you can remove it.
Thread damage is common, but almost always repairable using a thread chaser or tap. Most new sensors come with a little anti-seize on the threads, but if not, use a high-temp anti-seize for installation.
The ‘L’ Word
I know I promised I wouldn’t use the “L” word, but just for the record, lambda is a numerical representation of stoichiometric ratio, which itself is a reference to air/fuel ratio. Most of us know 14.7:1 – the stoichiometric ratio for gasoline, which is necessary for complete combustion, or for all fuel to burn with no excess air left over. What’s tricky is that the stoichiometric ratio is different for alternative fuels.
In other words, all fuels don’t require the 14.7:1 ratio for correct combustion. E85, for example, has a stoichiometric ratio of 9.77:1 for correct combustion. The lambda value for the ideal stoichiometric ratio, regardless of fuel type, is 1.00. Basically, it’s just a different scale, like using the metric system vs. fractional. Utilizing the lambda value has become more popular in recent years, primarily due to the interest in aftermarket vehicle tuning. Many tuners utilize lambda simply for consistency, but you have to be careful. Some control units use lambda numbers, some use stoichiometric, so when you’re at that level, you just need to know what you’re dealing with.
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