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What Happened to Throttle-Position Sensors?
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By NAPA
Engine coolant keeps the waste heat of the combustion process at bay. There’s no denying the importance coolant plays in keeping an engine running, but how do you know when it needs to be changed? But also to make sure your coolant is doing its job it needs to be monitored by a coolant sensor. Let’s look at how to test engine coolant, how to pressure test a cooling system, and equally important how to test coolant temp sensor operation.
Why Test Engine Coolant?
Your engine coolant is part of an enclosed system, but that system consists of many components of varying materials. Over time under the stress of extreme heat exposure the coolant loses some of its ability to control and conduct those temperatures. There are also parts of the cooling system that can corrode internally leaving tiny rust flakes that act like silty mud. There are all reasons why your engine coolant needs to be tested and periodically replaced when it has reached the end of its service life. But you need to test not only for the right coolant mixture ratio, but also the chemical composition of the coolant.
Testing Engine Coolant Ratio link hidden, please login to view
The easiest way to test coolant mixing ratio with an
link hidden, please login to viewr. This neat little device tests the specific gravity of the coolant using either little colored floating balls or a swing arm. The balls and swing arm are calibrated to float at different levels based on the specific gravity of the coolant. Simply draw coolant into the antifreeze tester and compare the results to the included chart. Typically on a floating ball type tester the higher the concentration of ethylene glycol, the more balls that float. You can then estimate the freezing point of the coolant and how well you are protected against the cold. Just be aware that there are different testers for propylene glycol and ethylene glycol, so choose a tester that matches what is used in your cooling system. For a more accurate measurement of your coolant’s freezing point you can use a refractometer. There are
link hidden, please login to viewand link hidden, please login to viewrefractometers but they both work on the same idea. Simply place a few sample drops of coolant in the tool. For the analog refractometer you then look through the eyepiece and read the inside gauge. For the digital refractometer you just have to push a button and the reading will be displayed on the screen. You will need to read the instructions and be familiar with the tool to understand what the results of each one means to the specific gravity of your coolant. Testing Engine Coolant Condition
As mentioned earlier your coolant can actually degrade over time. Luckily a simple
link hidden, please login to viewcan give you a glimpse of what is in your coolant. When the engine is cool and depressurized (never work on a hot engine’s cooling system) just remove the radiator cap and dip in a testing strip. Make sure to read the directions included with the testing strip to make sure you get a good reading. Most test strips can tell you the pH level, nitrate concentration level, and liquid freeze point. If any of these readings are out of specification, it is time for a link hidden, please login to viewand refill. How To Test A Coolant Temp Sensor
Knowing how to test coolant temp sensor output is a bit more technical. You will need a multimeter to read the resistance of the coolant temp sensor during the test. You will also need to remove the coolant temp sensor from your vehicle, so refer to a repair manual for the specific procedure. For sensor range testing you will need a container of ice water and a container of boiling water. Finally you need the factory sensor range specifications (usually found in the repair manual) along with a pen and paper to take notes.
Once you have the sensor out of the vehicle attach it to the connections on the multimeter. Most sensors have two connections and since you are testing resistance, it does not matter which order is used. If your sensor has more than two connections refer to a vehicle wiring diagram to find the ground connection and the voltage input connection.
You will be testing engine coolant temperature sensor resistance output in cold water and hot water, then comparing the two readings to the factory specification found in your repair manual. Check the temperature of the ice water to make sure it is as close to freezing as possible (32 degrees F or 0 degrees C). Set the voltmeter to the 20,000 ohm range. Dip the tip of the sensor in the cold water and observe the reading on the multimeter. When the reading stops changing, write it down on the paper as the cold reading. Repeat the same process with the boiling water, being careful to hold the sensor with tongs or similar tool to reduce the chance of touching the boiling water. Write down the hot temperature reading from the multimeter.
Now you can compare the two voltage readings to the factory sensor specifications. If the readings are not within specifications the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Now that you know the steps for how to test an engine coolant temperature sensor, you can decide if it is worth your time or if the sensor is cheap enough to just replace it and move on.
How To Pressure Test A Coolant System
Luckily learning how to pressure test coolant system components is pretty easy. You will need an
link hidden, please login to view which looks like a bicycle tire pump attached to a universal radiator cap. Start with a cool engine (never work on a hot engine cooling system under pressure). Remove the radiator cap or coolant reservoir cap if so equipped. Attach the pressure tester to the same place where you just removed the radiator cap or reservoir cap. The pressure tester may have a universal rubber fitting or come with an array of adapters to connect with your particular cooling system. Now use the pump to add pressurized air to the cooling system. Watch the pressure gauge on the pressure tester and add roughly 15 psi of pressure (but no more than that). The pressure gauge should hold steady indicating no leaks. If the pressure gauge goes down or does not register any pressure, double check your pressure tester connection just in case. If the system will not hold pressure, you will need to repair the leak. You can use link hidden, please login to view to help locate the leak if it is not easily apparent. Check out all the
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By Counterman
Alligator sens.it RS universal TPMS sensors now cover the 2020-2021 Ford Bronco.
“This vehicle has hit the market by storm and Alligator is proud to offer service for this impressive new SUV,” Alligator said in a news release.
The all-terrain Bronco is another addition to the expanding list of Ford vehicles that can automatically learn and detect TPMS sensors once installed into each wheel assembly, or if rotating tires at regular intervals.
Alligator offers these instructions: Simply install the new Alligator sens.it RS universal TPMS sensors, then begin driving the SUV, and the system will register the new IDs automatically while driving. Based on the instruction manual, make sure to park the vehicle the required amount of time for the TPMS system to enter into relearn mode (usually 20 minutes).
The Alligator sens.it RS universal TPMS sensor also supports location detection, so when rotating tires, there’s no need to reset the system manually. Simply follow the same procedure as auto-learning and the display will show the new tire locations on the dash after driving for a few minutes.
“By continuing to use Alligator sens.it RS universal TPMS sensors, shops can ensure they are working with a part that supports the full range of OE features, which helps make the job easier, reduces unnecessary downtime in the bay for TPMS learning or general sensor issues, helps the bottom line and, most importantly, keeps customers happy and coming back,” the company said. “When replacing OEM sensors with aftermarket sensors, rest assured that RS Series TPMS sensors from Alligator will provide all the functionality your car delivers. Regardless of the tool you use to program your Alligator TPMS sensors, this new application should be available for programming after you complete the latest update.”
Alligator is a brand of
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By Counterman
At the same time the auto industry was dipping its toes into technology, I was your typical high school adolescent who only cared about the cars I could afford – which at that time was nothing newer than mid-‘70s iron.
The only language I knew was that of carburetors, camshafts, headers and hot rods, and growing up in a college town, I thought lambda was a fraternity. In a few short years when I entered both the auto repair industry and technical college, I found out I had a lot to learn.
All of a sudden, I had to learn technology, which required first off to learn the terminology. Oxygen (O2) sensors were new to me, and then throwing in the term “lambda” made it all seem complicated. I eventually learned that it really wasn’t, but I also learned not to get wrapped up in all the overly technical jargon.
From a technician standpoint, I needed to understand how things worked – not re-engineer them – so here’s what I taught myself to know about O2 sensors, and I promise I won’t use the word “lambda” … at least for a while.
O2 sensors have a simple function. They generate voltage, and their job in an automotive context is to provide a varying output voltage in response to the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. Determining the amount of oxygen in the exhaust is what allows modern engine-management systems to calculate the efficiency of the combustion process and adjust the fuel delivery to maintain the correct air/fuel ratio.
So, how do they do this? The principal is an electrochemical reaction that takes place, the catalyst for which is the difference between the amount of oxygen in the air we breathe compared to the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. In order to get the “outside” sample of air, some O2 sensors have provisions that allow air into the body of the sensor; others have a sealed sample inside.
One of the important factors in the operation of an O2 sensor is heat. The bottom line is they can’t produce an accurate signal until they’re warmed up. Until an O2 sensor is warmed up, the computer will run the engine in a mode called open loop. All this means is that it’s running on pre-programmed parameters, but it also means it’s not running efficiently since it’s not yet utilizing the critical data from the O2 sensor that it needs to adjust the air/fuel ratio.
When the O2 sensor warms up, the engine computer will switch to closed-loop operation, meaning it’s now adjusting the air/fuel ratio based on the input it receives from the sensor(s). Since this is so important for emissions, the quicker the O2 sensor warms up, the better. Location or placement in the exhaust has an effect on how quickly they warm up, but the two biggest factors are the addition of built-in heaters and higher idle rpm when the engine is cold.
High rpm also is important to warm up the catalytic converter, since they don’t work efficiently until warm either. But enough of that. Let’s move on.
AFR Sensors
So, you have an idea of what an O2 sensor does and when it does it. It’s time to throw a wrench in the works. There’s another sensor called an air/fuel ratio (AFR) sensor. An AFR sensor also is called (or nicknamed) a wideband O2 sensor. What they ultimately do is the same thing, and up to this point in the article, feel free to switch the term O2 with AFR.
They also look basically the same and mount the same. We often call them all O2 sensors, and nobody gets really hung up on it, because they’re close enough. AFR sensors, however, have different operating parameters because they have a wider range and are able to provide more precise information to the vehicle computer. They simply are a more accurate version of an O2 sensor.
The fact that they operate differently is obviously critical for diagnostics, but it’s also just as important from the standpoint of replacement. The only acceptable replacement is a sensor that is specified for the exact vehicle in the exact location on the vehicle. An O2 sensor won’t work in place of an AFR sensor, or vice-versa. Some vehicles also have both types of sensors installed, making it more important to confirm which sensor is being replaced.
Most modern vehicles have two sensors on each bank of the engine. An inline engine only has one bank (with the exception of a couple strange anomalies out there that you may run across), and any V-configured engine has two banks. When you sell an O2 or AFR sensor, you’ll need to know the location referenced as Bank 1 Sensor 1, Bank 1 Sensor 2, Bank 2 Sensor 1 and so on.
Real-World Operation
Let’s touch briefly on operation. Ideally, we would like to make an engine run at the perfect air/fuel ratio (referred to as stoichiometric ratio) at all times. In the real world, that’s not possible due to constantly changing parameters of engine operation, so the best we can do is allow the engine computer to make constant adjustments.
An O2 sensor (not an AFR sensor) is only able to send basic voltage signals of rich or lean. When it sends either signal, the control unit reacts and adjusts the fuel mixture. So, for example, if it sees a rich signal, it will continue to lean out the mixture until it sees a lean signal. As soon as it sees a lean signal, it then will begin to enrich the mixture until it sees a rich signal. This all happens really fast of course, and on an oscilloscope, normal O2 operation will look like a consistent waveform ranging from about .2 volts (a lean signal) to approximately .8 volts (a rich signal). As long as the average between the high and low readings is about .45 volts (450 millivolts), we know that the sensor is operating correctly, and the control unit is able to maintain the proper fuel mixture.
An AFR sensor operates in conjunction with the control unit through current flow. The current flow changes direction for rich or lean, and when the mixture is at the stoichiometric ratio, current flow stops. The AFR sensor also increases or decreases the current flow (in either direction) in direct proportion to the changing rich or lean condition. This provides much more information to the control unit, allowing it to better predict and control fuel mixture.
On an oscilloscope, normal operation is similar to that of an O2 sensor, but the voltage can vary in a range from 0 up to 5 volts. Lower voltage indicates a rich signal, whereas higher voltage indicates a
lean signal.
I may have bridged the gap of too much technical information, but it’s all more knowledge you can share with your customer and use to your advantage when explaining the importance of a quality sensor. Undoubtedly, you’re also going to be asked two things. One, how to tell if a sensor is bad; and two, tips about replacement.
Diagnosis
Diagnosing a sensor can be difficult when it comes down to the level of using an oscilloscope, primarily because it takes a lot of experience to get familiar with reading the waveforms. So, here’s a good way to approach it when your customer asks.
Generally speaking, a customer buying an O2 sensor is almost always trying to “fix” the “Check Engine” light because of an O2-sensor code. If the stored code is related to the sensor heater, diagnosis should be easy. The control unit provides power and ground to the heater, and wiring problems are very common. Check for power and ground at the sensor connector wires. If you have it, the sensor heater is bad and the sensor needs replaced. If you don’t have it, there’s a wiring issue.
If the code is related to sensor operation, it could be a bad sensor, bad wiring or another problem such as a vacuum leak or leaking injector. You have to be careful about misdiagnosis, so it’s fair to recommend your customer have the problem professionally diagnosed. However, it’s a fact that O2 and AFR sensors will wear out with age.
Since we know it’s a chemical reaction that takes place to make them work, think of it like a traditional car battery. A chemical reaction takes place to generate electricity in a battery, and over time the ability for that chemical reaction to take place diminishes. The same is true with an O2 or AFR sensor. They simply wear out. Don’t be afraid to recommend them based on age.
O2 and AFR sensors also are very sensitive electronic devices, and they can be damaged by coolant, engine oil, incorrect fuel or silicone and sealants that are not safe for use with them, so beware of these other outside possibilities that can
ruin them.
Installation Tips
When asked about installation, here are some tips. All sensors, O2 or AFR, are 22 millimeters. There are many different O2-sensor sockets, which are designed to allow you to remove the sensor without damaging the wiring harness. This is really only important if you are removing a sensor for access to another repair.
If the sensor is bad, there’s no need to worry about the wires. Cut them off at the sensor and use a 22-millimeter wrench or socket. The most common thing that happens during replacement is that you break the sensor loose, get about a quarter-turn on it and it locks up. You have to be patient at this point and allow penetrating oil time to work its way in, then slowly work the sensor back and forth until you can remove it.
Thread damage is common, but almost always repairable using a thread chaser or tap. Most new sensors come with a little anti-seize on the threads, but if not, use a high-temp anti-seize for installation.
The ‘L’ Word
I know I promised I wouldn’t use the “L” word, but just for the record, lambda is a numerical representation of stoichiometric ratio, which itself is a reference to air/fuel ratio. Most of us know 14.7:1 – the stoichiometric ratio for gasoline, which is necessary for complete combustion, or for all fuel to burn with no excess air left over. What’s tricky is that the stoichiometric ratio is different for alternative fuels.
In other words, all fuels don’t require the 14.7:1 ratio for correct combustion. E85, for example, has a stoichiometric ratio of 9.77:1 for correct combustion. The lambda value for the ideal stoichiometric ratio, regardless of fuel type, is 1.00. Basically, it’s just a different scale, like using the metric system vs. fractional. Utilizing the lambda value has become more popular in recent years, primarily due to the interest in aftermarket vehicle tuning. Many tuners utilize lambda simply for consistency, but you have to be careful. Some control units use lambda numbers, some use stoichiometric, so when you’re at that level, you just need to know what you’re dealing with.
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By Counterman
Continental has introduced a new packaging design for its next generation of REDI-Sensor multi-application TPMS sensors.
Developed as part of an overall branding update coinciding with the launch of Continental’s next generation of TPMS sensors, the new packaging employs an easy-to-read product identification promoting REDI-Sensor’s performance capabilities, key attributes and overall benefits to TPMS service.
“We’ve added a key feature to the new REDI-Sensor package to make it as informative and service ready as possible,” noted Lindsay Smith, Continental product manager. “The back panel of the new REDI-Sensor package includes a QR code that provides a quick link to the REDI-Sensor TPMS application online lookup, so customers can quickly verify that they have the right TPMS sensor or service parts for the vehicle they are servicing. The lookup allows search by vehicle year, make and model, or VIN number and also enables access to REDI-Sensor TPMS sensor installation and relearn instructions, service tips, videos, and technical support.”
The next generation of REDI-Sensor features four multi-application TPMS sensors that can replace more than 290 different OE sensors and provide coverage for more than 168 million VIO from model years 2002 to 2022.
The new REDI-Sensor line gives shops a significant TPMS service advantage by dramatically reducing the number of sensor SKUs needed to service incoming domestic, European and Asian vehicles, according to Continental. With only four REDI-Sensor SKUs on hand, shops are ready to provide TPMS service for virtually every vehicle that comes in.
REDI-Sensor TPMS sensors come ready to install, right out of the box, and require no added sensor programming or cloning. They are pre-programmed from the factory and designed to follow existing OE vehicle-relearn procedures. REDI-Sensor works with most major TPMS scan tools and is compatible with TPMS features such as autolearning, pressure by position and tire-fill alert systems.
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By Counterman
Continental offers the Autodiagnos TPMS SE service tool as an ideal solution for multiple-bay shops that want to increase their TPMS-service capabilities and profits.
Designed to work with 100% of OE sensors and aftermarket sensors from REDI Sensor and EZ-sensor, Autodiagnos TPMS SE can perform relearns on over 95% of domestic, Asian and European models, according to the company.
The Autodiagnos TPMS SE was developed for multi-bay shops that require more than one TPMS tool in service at a time. It provides direct (OBD, auto, manual) and indirect TPMS relearn procedures and displays sensor ID, pressure, temperature and battery status in a matter of seconds. The tool also utilizes a cabled connection to perform OBD II mode relearns.
“Diagnostic tools can offer great service opportunities for shops, but often come with a hefty price tag. The Autodiagnos TPMS SE tool is an affordable option that allows larger shops to provide critical TPMS service to multiple customers simultaneously,” said Christopher Bahlman, head of diagnostics and services for Continental. “Plus, the tool is backed by Continental’s TPMS and OEM expertise, giving technicians peace of mind when servicing this critical safety system.”
In addition to the Autodiagnos TPMS SE, Continental also offers the Autodiagnos TPMS D tool as a solution for shops that only need a single tool for their service and diagnostic needs. This tool reads and clears TPMS codes and has a built-in VIN scanner for faster make/model/year lookups. It also can program sensors from historical data and features an OBD II mode that streamlines relearns for all of a vehicle’s sensors in under two minutes. The TPMS D works with 100% of OE and aftermarket sensors from REDI Sensor and EZ-sensor, according to Continental.
Continental Diagnostics & Services (D&S) was founded nearly 10 years ago to address the needs of service providers for advanced diagnostics, service information, connected services and specialty solutions, such as PTI (periodic technical inspection). D&S has developed diagnostics and service solutions for North America under the Autodiagnos brand. Key product offerings include professional aftermarket scan tools, TPMS diagnostic and service tools and a connected-vehicle data platform.
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