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Points for attention to replace pumps
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China's shortcuts in automobile manufacturing industry
By 袁春凤 (Tiffany),
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- water pumps
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By NAPA
Christian Eckes took the NASCAR CRAFTSMAN Truck Series points lead on Friday night with a stout fourth-place performance at Texas Motor Speedway. The driver of the No. 19 Gates Hydraulics Chevrolet Silverado RST captured his third top-five finish of the season and scored 50 points on the night, the second-most of all drivers in the field. Eckes led 31 laps, the only driver to have led laps in each race this season, and tallied his third top-five finish in the last four events.
For the second-consecutive weekend, Eckes qualified on the front row and was a mainstay in the top five for the entire event. He settled into second at the drop of the green flag and challenged for the lead near the midway point of the opening stage. The first lead change of the night occurred when Eckes powered his Gates Hydraulics Chevy to the lead on lap 17 and paced the field for 21 circuits. He surrendered the lead on lap 38 and collected nine points at the end of Stage 1 on lap 40 while running second.
Crew chief Charles Denike brought Eckes to pit road under the stage caution for four fresh tires, fuel, and a minor air pressure adjustment to tighten his balance. Eckes restarted second on lap 47 and maintained position inside the top five for the ensuing 35-lap run. An improved handling balance and consistent lap times netted Eckes another eight points at the end of Stage 2 on lap 80 by running in third position.
Eckes was armed with another batch of fresh tires, fuel, and minor adjustments to fine-tune the handling during the second stage caution. After restarting third on lap 87, he waged war for the runner-up position and gained control of it by lap 100. He ran there until a cycle of green flag pit stops began on lap 119. Eckes made his final stop on lap 129 just before a caution waved. He was able to stay on the lead lap in fourth position and in contention for the victory. He made another fierce run for the race lead on a lap 150 and led until lap 158. During the final 10 laps, Eckes fought valiantly for one final charge at the lead but took the checkered flag in fourth position for his third top-five and sixth top-10 of the season.
“Not a bad points night,” Eckes said. “I thought we’d have a pretty good shot at the win there, but just went down into Turns 1 and 2 and got way too tight and slid up the racetrack. It is what it is. I’m proud of the No. 19 Gates Hydraulics team for making the improvements that they did. Our mile-and-a-half stuff has definitely shown a little bit of an improvement. We still have a little bit of a ways to go, but we’ll see how it goes.”
Start / Finish: 2 / 4
Points Standing / Total: 1 / 287 pts. (+2)
Next Race: Saturday, May 4, Kansas Speedway
How to Watch or Listen: 8:00 p.m. ET on FS1, MRN or SiriusXM
NAPA:
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By Counterman
The water pump is a vehicle component that needs no introduction. For most vehicle owners, however, they don’t think about it until something goes wrong.
As the only moving part of the cooling system, the water pump plays a vital role in keeping the vehicle running optimally in all weather conditions. Water pumps usually last a long time – 100,000 miles or more on average. When a water pump fails, though, the results can be catastrophic for the engine.
Let’s talk about some common causes of premature water-pump failure.
Coolant Contamination
Coolant can become contaminated with dirt, debris or other substances that can wear down the water pump’s internal components, including the seals and bearings. This contamination can accelerate wear and lead to early failure.
Cavitation
This phenomenon occurs when vapor bubbles form in the coolant near the pump’s impeller blades, causing shock waves when they collapse. Over time, this can lead to pitting and erosion of the impeller blades, reducing the pump’s effectiveness.
Improper Coolant Mixture
Many water-pump failures are caused by factors other than a faulty pump. Using the wrong coolant mixture or water-to-coolant ratio can cause corrosion and deposits within the pump, reducing its efficiency and lifespan. Additionally, incorrect coolant types can chemically react with pump components, causing deterioration.
Bearing Failure
Bearings within the water pump allow the impeller to spin smoothly. Over time, these bearings can wear out or fail – often due to tension from a misaligned or overtightened belt – leading to noise, leaks or a seized pump.
Thermal Stress and Fatigue
Constant exposure to fluctuating temperatures can cause the metal components of the water pump to expand and contract, leading to stress fractures and eventual failure.
Leakage and Seal Failure
The water pump’s seals are prone to wear and degradation over time, leading to coolant leaks. Such leaks not only reduce the efficiency of the cooling system but also can cause overheating and further damage to the water pump and surrounding components.
Warning Signs
Recognizing the early signs of water-pump failure can prevent more significant engine damage. Here are some key indicators:
1. Coolant leak – One of the most straightforward signs is a coolant leak at the front of the vehicle, typically near the center. This can indicate a failed seal or gasket in the
water pump.
2. Overheating engine – If the water pump isn’t circulating coolant effectively, the engine temperature can rise, leading to overheating. Persistent overheating, especially under normal driving conditions, should prompt an inspection of the cooling system, including the water pump.
3. Strange noises – A failing water pump can produce a variety of noises, such as whining or grinding, often due to bearing failure or an impeller rubbing against the pump housing.
4. Steam from radiator – Seeing steam emanate from the radiator is a clear sign of overheating, which could be due to a malfunctioning water pump.
5. Corrosion and deposit build-up – Visible corrosion or significant scaling on the water pump or surrounding components can indicate a failing pump, often due to improper coolant use or leaks that allow air into the system.
While the service life of most OE water pumps should be 100,000 miles or longer, a cheap replacement pump might not make it 30,000 miles before it starts to leak. To keep your customers happy, it’s always a good idea to recommend a well-built, high-quality water pump from a trusted manufacturer. And when they’re replacing the water pump, you’ll want to check if they need any gaskets, hoses, coolant, belts or a thermostat.
Also, if your customer who just purchased a new aftermarket water pump from you doesn’t flush the system and use new coolant when they install the new pump, there’s a good chance you’ll be hearing from them sooner rather than later with a warranty return. You should encourage your customers to follow the vehicle’s recommended flush-and-fill schedule, and to always use the coolant specified by the vehicle manufacturer. Most coolant suppliers do not recommend intermixing different brands or types of coolant in the same cooling system, due to the risk of coolant-gelling, corrosion or abrasion of water-pump seals.
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By Counterman
Carter has expanded its line of electrical auxiliary water pumps to include three new part numbers tailored specifically for Tesla vehicles.
“With a focus on meeting the unique demands of Tesla vehicles, these auxiliary water-pump SKUs are engineered to efficiently move fluid in high-temperature environments, keeping pace with the rapidly evolving technologies found in modern engines,” the company said in a news release.
The new part numbers cater specifically to Tesla models, complementing Carter’s comprehensive range of water pumps that already cover 95% of domestic and import VIO,
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By NAPA
Chase Elliott and No. 9 Kelley Blue Book team qualified third for Sunday’s NASCAR Cup Series race at Phoenix Raceway The 28-year-old driver earned valuable stage points, finishing fifth in stage one and seventh in stage two A slew of cautions in the final stage prompted multiple strategies among teams. Elliott restarted 17th after the final caution of the race and ultimately finished the race in the 19th position Elliott and the No. 9 team leave Phoenix ninth in the Cup Series points standings After posting the seventh fastest lap in Friday afternoon’s NASCAR Cup Series practice session at Phoenix Raceway, Chase Elliott backed that up with a third-place qualifying lap on Saturday. The 28-year-old driver took the green flag for the 312-lap race from the second row on Sunday afternoon. Elliott was still running inside the top five when the first caution flag of the race waved on lap seven. The early report from the Hendrick Motorsports driver was that his No. 9 Kelley Blue Book Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 was locked down and tight in the back. With the team opting not to pit, Elliott restarted in the fifth position on lap 12 and remained there as the rest of 60-lap first stage went caution free. The fifth-place stage finish garnered six stage points for the Dawsonville, Georgia, native.
Under the stage-ending caution, Elliott relayed to crew chief Alan Gustafson that the Kelley Blue Book Chevy was tight and that it freed up as the run went on. The crew opted for four tires, fuel and a chassis adjustment during a fast pit stop which gained Elliott a spot on pit road. He lined up fourth to start the second stage on lap 69. Elliott raced three-wide once the field went back to green, taking over the third position on lap 70. He held strong, maintaining his top-three running position through a long green-flag run. The field started making green-flag pit stops on lap 115, with Elliott bringing the Kelley Blue Book Chevrolet to pit road on lap 117 for four tires and fuel. With the field stretched out, Elliott was bogged down in traffic following his stop, making it harder to gain track position. Still, he managed to score a top-10 finish in the second stage, taking the green-and-white checkered flag in the seventh spot. The result added four more stage points to his total.
During the stage break, Elliott brought the Kelley Blue Book Chevrolet to pit road for four tires and fuel. The pit crew knocked out another fast stop, gaining the 2020 Cup Series champion three spots. Elliott took the green flag for the final stage from the fourth position on lap 194 and was scored in fifth place when the caution came out just two laps later. Elliott kept his Chevrolet on the track under the yellow flag. He lined up fifth for the restart on lap 202 and was battling inside the top 10 when the race was slowed once more. Staying out while some drivers deeper in the field visited pit road, Elliott restarted eighth and was scored in ninth at the time of the lap-216 caution. Gustafson called Elliott to pit road with the rest of the leaders for four tires, fuel and a chassis adjustment. With varying pit strategies among teams – some taking only two tires and others opting to stay out – Elliott restarted in the 17th position on lap 220. He managed to advance as high as 16th early in the run but being stuck in dirty air made it difficult for Elliott to continue forward progress. When the checkered flag waved on lap 312, he was scored with a 19th-place finish.
Elliott and the No. 9 team leave Phoenix Raceway ninth in the Cup Series points standings, just 28 markers behind the leader.
Start / Finish: 3 / 19
Points Standing / Total: 9th / 123 pts. (-26)
Next Race: Sunday, March 17, Bristol Motor Speedway
How to Watch or Listen: 3:30 p.m. ET on FOX, PRN or SiriusXM
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By NAPA
Honestly,
link hidden, please login to view are rarely a topic of discussion around automotive maintenance until something goes wrong. A torn CV boot seems like a minor issue at first, but if the situation is not remedied quickly, more damage will occur. A CV boot keeps lubricating grease from escaping the spinning link hidden, please login to view. Without grease, the CV joint will wear out rapidly. CV boots also protect the CV joint from water, dirt and road debris. For an often-forgotten replacement part, the CV boot performs a pretty critical job. For even more technical insight, check out “ link hidden, please login to view” CV boots aren’t just for front-wheel-drive vehicles either. Any vehicle design that must transmit power to a wheel, while also allowing for suspension movement, might utilize a CV joint. For example, a late-model, rear-wheel-drive
link hidden, please login to view has an independent rear suspension and two CV axles, each with two CV boots. A late-model, front-wheel-drive link hidden, please login to view also has two CV axles and four CV boots. But, in comparison, an all-wheel-drive link hidden, please login to view has four CV axles and a total of eight CV boots. Is It Possible Fix a CV Boot?
If you’re searching for a how-to guide on replacing a damaged CV boot, you came to the right place. Let’s walk through a CV boot replacement with the help of some NAPA expertise. Keep in mind, a CV axle boot replacement is only for
link hidden, please login to view that are still in good shape. If your CV axle is clicking or the CV boot was damaged and leaking grease for an extended length of time, you need to replace the entire CV axle. Installing a new CV boot and applying
link hidden, please login to view won’t fix an already damaged CV joint. Also, the labor to just replace a CV boot is nearly the same or greater than replacing the entire CV axle assembly. If the link hidden, please login to view costs as much as a new or rebuilt CV axle, the smart choice is to replace the entire CV axle. How Long Does It Take to Replace a CV Boot?
The time it takes for CV axle boot replacement varies by vehicle. Most of the labor time involves removing the CV axle from the vehicle. Budget at least an hour for the job if the CV axle is easy to remove or up to three hours if the vehicle is complicated. Cleaning the CV joint can take another 30 minutes as well.
How to Replace a CV Boot
A typical
link hidden, please login to view includes a new CV boot, two CV boot clamps and grease. Replacing a CV boot requires lifting the vehicle off the ground for easier access to the underside. A repair shop or well-outfitted home mechanic will utilize a vehicle lift, while a DIYer can use something as simple as sturdy link hidden, please login to view. Never use a floor jack to support a vehicle, as they can suddenly fail. Lift the vehicle off the ground. Use a wheel chock to prevent any wheels on the ground from rolling. Remove the wheel on the axle that needs repaired. Refer to a repair manual for what steps to follow to access the CV axle. You will likely need to remove the brakes and detach steering and/or suspension components, as well as the axle nut. Remove the CV axle from the vehicle and place it on a workbench with plenty of working space. Cut off the failed rubber CV boot. The metal CV boot clamps will likely require a pair of link hidden, please login to view. Due to the potential mess caused by the CV joint grease, we recommend wearing a pair of disposable work gloves for this step. Refer to your repair manual for how to remove the CV joint from the axle shaft. Note that inner and outer CV joints are possibly different and might require distinct methods of disassembly. Clean the axle shaft to remove any old grease. Use a link hidden, please login to view to clean the CV joint. Let the CV joint dry thoroughly. If using non-split CV boot clamps, slide them over the axle shaft now. Slide the new CV boot onto the axle shaft, taking care to orient it correctly. The large cone opening should face the CV joint. You may need to use a small amount of silicone lubricant to help move the boot along the axle shaft. Refer to your repair manual to link hidden, please login to view using the correct specified grease. Refer to your repair manual to reinstall the CV joint onto the end of the axle shaft. Slide the CV boot over the CV joint, making sure it is seated evenly. Using the link hidden, please login to view, tighten both CV boot clamps. Reinstall the CV axle along with any components that were removed to access the CV axle. Pay attention to torque specifications during reassembly. Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts to the correct specifications. Lower the vehicle back to the ground. How Much Does It Cost to Replace a CV Boot?
CV boot replacement cost can range from $300 to $900 depending on the vehicle. It is wise to price out replacement of the entire CV axle as well. In some cases, it is smarter to spend a little more money to replace the entire CV axle rather than spend time changing just a CV boot. Check out the
link hidden, please login to view for a better estimate of what this repair would cost for your vehicle (if applicable). Now that you know the typical steps of how to replace a CV boot, you can decide if this repair is something you can tackle yourself. Your local NAPA Auto Parts store can help you find the right CV axle boot repair kit for your application. You can also shop NAPAonline for
link hidden, please login to view on more than 160,000 items! Don’t feel like doing it yourself or don’t have the time? The link hidden, please login to view at your local link hidden, please login to view have you covered with more than 17,000 locations nationwide. Photo courtesy of
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