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What Happens When The Catalytic Converter Goes Bad?
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By Dorman Products
Toyota Prius Catalytic Converter Anti-Theft Shields | Dorman 927-932, 927-933, & 927-934
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By Counterman
The water pump is a vehicle component that needs no introduction. For most vehicle owners, however, they don’t think about it until something goes wrong.
As the only moving part of the cooling system, the water pump plays a vital role in keeping the vehicle running optimally in all weather conditions. Water pumps usually last a long time – 100,000 miles or more on average. When a water pump fails, though, the results can be catastrophic for the engine.
Let’s talk about some common causes of premature water-pump failure.
Coolant Contamination
Coolant can become contaminated with dirt, debris or other substances that can wear down the water pump’s internal components, including the seals and bearings. This contamination can accelerate wear and lead to early failure.
Cavitation
This phenomenon occurs when vapor bubbles form in the coolant near the pump’s impeller blades, causing shock waves when they collapse. Over time, this can lead to pitting and erosion of the impeller blades, reducing the pump’s effectiveness.
Improper Coolant Mixture
Many water-pump failures are caused by factors other than a faulty pump. Using the wrong coolant mixture or water-to-coolant ratio can cause corrosion and deposits within the pump, reducing its efficiency and lifespan. Additionally, incorrect coolant types can chemically react with pump components, causing deterioration.
Bearing Failure
Bearings within the water pump allow the impeller to spin smoothly. Over time, these bearings can wear out or fail – often due to tension from a misaligned or overtightened belt – leading to noise, leaks or a seized pump.
Thermal Stress and Fatigue
Constant exposure to fluctuating temperatures can cause the metal components of the water pump to expand and contract, leading to stress fractures and eventual failure.
Leakage and Seal Failure
The water pump’s seals are prone to wear and degradation over time, leading to coolant leaks. Such leaks not only reduce the efficiency of the cooling system but also can cause overheating and further damage to the water pump and surrounding components.
Warning Signs
Recognizing the early signs of water-pump failure can prevent more significant engine damage. Here are some key indicators:
1. Coolant leak – One of the most straightforward signs is a coolant leak at the front of the vehicle, typically near the center. This can indicate a failed seal or gasket in the
water pump.
2. Overheating engine – If the water pump isn’t circulating coolant effectively, the engine temperature can rise, leading to overheating. Persistent overheating, especially under normal driving conditions, should prompt an inspection of the cooling system, including the water pump.
3. Strange noises – A failing water pump can produce a variety of noises, such as whining or grinding, often due to bearing failure or an impeller rubbing against the pump housing.
4. Steam from radiator – Seeing steam emanate from the radiator is a clear sign of overheating, which could be due to a malfunctioning water pump.
5. Corrosion and deposit build-up – Visible corrosion or significant scaling on the water pump or surrounding components can indicate a failing pump, often due to improper coolant use or leaks that allow air into the system.
While the service life of most OE water pumps should be 100,000 miles or longer, a cheap replacement pump might not make it 30,000 miles before it starts to leak. To keep your customers happy, it’s always a good idea to recommend a well-built, high-quality water pump from a trusted manufacturer. And when they’re replacing the water pump, you’ll want to check if they need any gaskets, hoses, coolant, belts or a thermostat.
Also, if your customer who just purchased a new aftermarket water pump from you doesn’t flush the system and use new coolant when they install the new pump, there’s a good chance you’ll be hearing from them sooner rather than later with a warranty return. You should encourage your customers to follow the vehicle’s recommended flush-and-fill schedule, and to always use the coolant specified by the vehicle manufacturer. Most coolant suppliers do not recommend intermixing different brands or types of coolant in the same cooling system, due to the risk of coolant-gelling, corrosion or abrasion of water-pump seals.
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By Counterman
Recently, I was reading about catalytic-converter theft when I came across an article that, if nothing else, put a light spin on the day. It informed me that a catalytic converter is a round canister that connects two pieces of piping in the exhaust. Hmmm. Sounds like a lot of mufflers and resonators I know. It also attempted to describe the symptoms of converter theft. I chuckled as I thought to myself, “You will know.”
Exhaust systems have a unique place in the automotive aftermarket. They likely are the most common components of all to be removed and thrown away when they’re in perfect condition. It’s all in the name of performance – or at least perceived performance through sound. But this article isn’t about performance. It’s about all mufflers and converters, and the name of the game here is fit.
Say “catalytic converter” years ago, and the comical description above was at least a little closer to accurate. However, converters today are almost synonymous with the term “direct fit.” Most converters are part of the downpipe that bolts directly to the exhaust manifold, or they’re part of the manifold themselves. In addition, most cars now have two converters to keep emissions in check, and what this comes down to – coupled with the fact that underhood real estate is no longer the vast open space it used to be – is that there’s no room for error with the alignment and fit
of a converter.
They either fit or they don’t. There’s no in-between or close enough. Most oxygen (O2) sensors are located in the converters as well, and usually two. The factory harnesses don’t give much wiggle room, so if O2-sensor bungs aren’t in the correct location, it poses another problem.
Why Ask Why?
Fit aside, the most important factor is why your customer needs a new catalytic converter, because they’ll look to you for advice. Unfortunately, it could be from theft, in which case they may need more than just a converter, since the exhaust system was also probably damaged in
some manner.
But from a regular repair standpoint, the most common reason for converter replacement is the “Check Engine” light. P0420 – catalyst efficiency below threshold – is one of the more common diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) we see as technicians.
It’s one of the more self-explanatory code definitions there is, and the majority of the time, the catalytic converter is the cause of the problem. However, it’s also important to warn your customer that an exhaust leak, bad O2 sensor, misfire or rich or lean running could cause the problem, and unless they’ve had the problem professionally diagnosed, you simply can’t guarantee that it’s a converter.
This opens the opportunity for upsells with spark plugs, coils, exhaust components or O2 sensors. Since DTC P0420 alone doesn’t indicate an immediate danger of breaking down, a DIYer may decide that it’s time for a tune-up and general maintenance, and they’ll start with that. If the code persists, then they can move on to the converter. Just make them aware of the possibilities so they know what they could be faced with going into it.
Selling Opportunities
Is there anything you can do to prevent catalytic-converter theft? Some people engrave or paint their converters to discourage it, but I personally can’t say whether it’s effective or not. Also available are different designs of converter “locks,” which often look like a network of cables or a cage, and sometimes a shield. Your company may carry some of these products, making another good suggestion for customers.
Even if replacement is a result of regular maintenance, a converter “lock” is a nice upsell, especially on taller trucks and SUVs. They’re more common victims since you can generally slide underneath, offering easy access to the converter.
Mufflers, at least from a standpoint of fit, can be a little easier to deal with, because there’s usually a little more room to work with. This fact alone is one reason there are so many custom exhaust options on the market. Older vehicles and trucks have the most room, opening up plenty of options for different mufflers with different sound levels and tones.
Exhaust adapters and couplers make almost infinite possibilities for installation, but if you’re helping someone get the right parts, help them to find what they need while utilizing the fewest adapters possible. Even if they have to try a few different options and return what doesn’t work, it makes a cleaner installation and saves money on clamps.
Many people prefer to go with factory-style exhaust, especially on sedans where space is limited. Performance exhaust systems on many new cars have similar space restrictions as converters, and performance or stock, selling specific make-and-model systems is often the easiest thing to do – as well as the best thing to do to save your customer some grief.
Those looking for a universal replacement style of muffler or a custom system most likely are experienced with this type of installation, and they’ll know exactly what they’re looking for.
When someone is installing an exhaust system, good recommendations are new hangers, exhaust sealing putty, mechanic or leather gloves and safety glasses. Exhaust putty isn’t a substitute for proper component fit, but it’s a nice touch that can prevent small leaks. The biggest thing about exhaust work is you’re underneath it and rust always likes to fall into your eyes, making safety glasses an important piece of personal protective equipment. The other exhaust caveat is that there’s always a sharp edge or two, especially when you cut a pipe. Durable gloves (not latex) are the best protection, and this is one job where I always recommend them.
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By Counterman
KBS Coatings Rust Converter chemically converts rust into a permanent, hard and highly durable black surface, according to the company.
KBS Rust Converter is directly sprayed onto any iron or steel object that has tightly bonded rust, or surface rust, to kill the existing rust and stop new rust from forming. The quick-drying rust killer forms an inert primer layer that can stand alone or be painted over.
“KBS Rust Converter saves time by eliminating the needed for scraping and sanding metal surfaces before topcoat applications, which is especially advantageous when time to complete the project is limited or the object is large,” the company added in a news release.
“One 12-ounce aerosol can covers approximately 20 square feet of surface.
For more information, visit
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