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Selling Roof Racks and Cargo Carriers
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By Counterman
Ask anyone what a “complete” brake job is and you’re likely to get a variety of answers. In the context of professional automotive repair, I define complete as meaning correctly done.
Why? Because the actual work that needs done to any given vehicle can vary depending on vehicle mileage, age and condition. And it can vary based on the equipment. For example, do you have access to a brake lathe? As a counter professional, you’ll have to dig into the details with your customer to determine what they need. However, there are simple guidelines to follow that will ensure you’re advising a “complete” brake job every time.
Brake Fluid, Brake Fluid, Brake Fluid
Above all, clean brake fluid is my first requirement.
It’s probably one of the most overlooked vehicle services, and most people don’t think of it as part of a brake job. It’s an afterthought only considered if they’re forced to do it. Anytime I perform brake work, the first part of the inspection is the bleeder screws. They must be able to open. No brake job is complete without flushing the brake fluid.
There’s no need to get “crazy” with it either when it’s done on a regular basis. A couple small 12-ounce bottles are plenty. Use a clean suction-bulb to remove as much brake fluid as you can from the master-cylinder reservoir, refill it, then flush fluid through until you can fit the contents of both bottles into the reservoir. Start with five strokes at each wheel until you see how much fluid is being forced through, so you equally balance the flushing from front to rear.
Contaminated brake fluid is corrosive and damaging to all the internal brake-system components, and it can cause poor braking performance. Even though every manufacturer specifies to flush it on a regular basis, it’s still out-of-sight, out-of-mind for a lot of people. In my opinion, you can’t change the brake fluid too often.
A complete brake job not only includes fluid, but also calipers or wheel cylinders in any situation where the bleeders don’t open.
Pads and Rotors
When disc brakes are being serviced, pads and rotors are at the core of the job. It’s far less common to resurface rotors than it has been in past times, and it doesn’t matter if you take that road or go with new. But the bottom line is something must happen with the rotors. “Slapping” a set of pads on old rotors is an immediate fail. The pads will never bed in properly, and you’ll only be faced with poor brake performance, uneven pad wear and unwanted noise.
The bottom line: Rotors must be resurfaced or replaced for the job to be complete. By the same token, old pads on new rotors equals an incomplete brake job.
Why would someone do this? Your guess could be as good as mine, but believe me, I’ve seen it all and I’m sure you have too. New pads and rotors bed in together. In other words, they rely on each other for proper brake operation.
Drum Brakes
If you thought there were some offenders with disc brakes, drums are often worse. For some reason there seems to be a perception that brake drums miraculously never need service, but the same theories hold true. If you’re replacing brake shoes, the job is only correctly done by resurfacing or replacing the drums.
Hardware
Hardware is anything from springs and hold-downs on drum brakes to anti-rattle clips and slide-pin boots on disc brakes. All these little pieces are important to proper brake operation. On drum brakes, even though everything may be intact, it’s also old and the springs will simply be fatigued. On disc brakes, the same holds true and even anti-rattle clips that look OK can be worn or fatigued in some manner. Luckily, most pads come with the hardware. They don’t put it in the box just for fun.
One of the most overlooked parts of disc-brake service is the fact that the pads must be able to move freely in the caliper bracket and the calipers also must be able to move freely back and forth. Most calipers (excluding fixed calipers) feature slide pins that allow this to happen. No brake job is complete without removing the slide pins, cleaning them up, lubricating them and reinstalling them with new boots when required.
It’s surprising how often the slide pins are stuck and how often brake pads are jammed in place due to rust, and the rust must be completely removed to allow free movement of the new brake pads. Stuck pins or stuck pads cause uneven and accelerated wear, dragging brakes, pulling and excessive heat buildup.
Lubrication
I touched on it already, but it’s worth a second mention. In addition to the slide pins on calipers, the brake pads require lubrication any place they contact the caliper bracket or caliper. Brake lube is specifically formulated to a) not damage or swell rubber components such as piston or slide-pin boots, b) prevent vibrations that cause noise, c) lubricate the pad contact points so they move freely in the caliper bracket and d) resist washing out.
In the case of drum brakes, the backing plates feature specific contact points for the brake shoes, which should be cleaned and lubricated. Brake shoes also require lubrication at pivot and contact points between the shoes and hardware.
Inspection
Determining what is required for a complete brake job can only be done through inspection and disassembly. It’s easy to see worn-out pads and rusty rotors through a wheel, but even when that’s evident, you can’t see anything else until you take things apart. This is when you inspect for brake-fluid leaks, seized or damaged hardware, torn dust boots and functional bleeder screws.
If leaks are found or dust boots are torn on a caliper piston or wheel cylinder, or if the bleeder won’t open, the components need to be replaced. Only until disassembly is performed during an inspection can you say absolutely what’s needed for any given vehicle. Sure, we can all look at a 50,000-mile four-year-old vehicle and say that it needs pads and rotors, and most likely those are the only hard parts it will need. But it’s no guarantee, and the higher the mileage and older the vehicle, the more likely we’ll find something else, which leads to the next category …
Recommending Parts
There’s always a way to work into the conversation of a complete brake job. The next time someone comes in and wants pads and rotors, you might ask, “Would you like me to look up caliper availability just in case a bleeder screw doesn’t open, or a caliper pin is seized?” If they’re an experienced technician, they know how often that happens, and they’ll likely say yes, just to know in case they need them, and they’ll appreciate it!
If they’re new at all this, it will get them thinking and open the door for your advice. The next thing you know, they might change their mind and decide to buy new calipers – or at minimum they’ll leave with the extra goodies they need for a complete brake job, such as brake lubricant, brake fluid, brake cleaner and some shop rags. If they get into the job and realize there’s a problem, they’ll be right back at your store.
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By partsman
Advance Auto Parts announced today, as part of their Q3 earnings release, that they are initiatiating the sale of their Worldpac and Canadian businesses (operates under Carquest).
Strategic Review Update
The company has initiated separate sale processes for the potential divestiture of Worldpac and the company’s Canada business. Worldpac, a leading automotive wholesale distributor of original equipment and aftermarket parts for all makes/all models, is highly recognized for its world class technology, catalog, product brand assortment and training. The company's Canadian business, which predominantly serves commercial customers, goes to market under the Carquest banner.
The company has engaged Centerview Partners to assist in the sale processes. The company has not set a timetable for the conclusion of the sale processes and does not intend to comment on or provide updates regarding these matters unless and until the processes are concluded or it determines that further disclosure is appropriate or required.
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By Counterman
I was young the first time I heard of a hybrid. But it wasn’t a car. It was a tomato my parents were planting in their garden. I couldn’t seem to grasp it. It was a strange word and an idea I didn’t get at first. Why did tomatoes have to change? Did they have to be different? I eventually accepted the idea, but why I chose a career field that’s always changing and throwing different things our way, that’s a question I still ask myself!
Just when you think you’ve got things down, here comes a new technology, like hybrid vehicles. My first thought was, “What, like a tomato?” Then, as with all new automotive technology, I started digging in and learning the new technology associated with them. I’m still learning.
As a counterperson, you’re on the front line as aging hybrids will start bringing their owners in the door, seeking parts and advice to keep them on the road. It can be a complex subject, but on a high level, it’s easy to understand and you can quickly get your customer the parts and the advice they need to keep them safe and on the road.
Hybrid electric vehicles (HEVs), or hybrids for short, are vehicles that combine a traditional internal-combustion engine (ICE) with an electric-motor drive system to achieve better fuel economy, lower emissions and higher power output.
There are multiple types of hybrids, the difference being how the engine and motor work together to transfer power to the drivetrain, as well as the degree to which the engine and motor contribute to propulsion of the vehicle. The main types are mild hybrids, full hybrids and plug-in hybrids (PHEVs). The short of it is that mild hybrids utilize an electric motor to assist the ICE; full hybrids have more powerful electric motors and only utilize the ICE when additional power is needed. PHEVs have larger battery packs, have a longer range when using the electric motor only and can be plugged in to recharge. Mild and full HEVs rely on regenerative braking, or a generator powered by the gas engine to recharge the battery pack.
The technology in an HEV is such that considerable training is required to work on the electrical systems, and just like a full electric vehicle, there’s a level of apprehension shared by many because of the potential danger. Safety always should be your first consideration, but don’t let it hinder sales opportunities, because there are many of them that are already familiar territory.
Safety
Should you find yourself staring under the hood of an HEV, there’s only one thing to remember: Don’t touch the brightly colored high-voltage components or wiring. Originally, most manufacturers used a bright orange color, and many of them still do, but you also might see bright blue or yellow. It’s perfectly safe to look and work under the hood. The high-voltage systems are well-insulated – just respect the general rule of thumb and stay away from these areas. Leave this work to technicians trained specifically for it.
The Batteries
HEVs have a regular lead-acid-type 12-volt starting battery for the ICE. These can be tested and replaced as you normally would, using the same regular safety precautions, but there are a few extra things to consider. First, only use the battery with the exact specifications for the vehicle.
Many HEVs also have an extra lithium-ion battery, often located inside the vehicle, that powers accessories when the engine isn’t running. These are usually called auxiliary batteries, and they must be disconnected in addition to the starting battery during replacement.
This is a safety precaution so there’s no chance of voltage in the system, depending on how the two work together. You also will have to perform a reset of the battery-monitoring and management system, just as you would on most of today’s ICE-only vehicles.
There’s still a separate battery pack for the electric motor, but this is part of the high-voltage system that you’re not going to go near. It’s just a question your customer may ask you.
Maintenance
This is where things for the most part are going to be familiar territory. The ICE in an HEV has regular maintenance requirements and you can take advantage of what you already know in this category. Standard maintenance items include engine oil and filter, engine air filter, cabin air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, engine coolant, brake fluid, drive belts and transmission fluid.
One thing that is different is the coolant. There are two cooling systems in an HEV: one for the ICE, and one for the electric-motor inverter system. The coolant level for both should be checked on a regular basis, and the cooling system for the ICE is just like the cooling systems we’re used to. Changing and flushing the coolant falls under traditional guidelines.
Often, the ICE and motor cooling systems appear to share the same radiator, but the coolants never mix between the two. These are two radiators joined together to fit in the space normally occupied by one. There are additional complexities with the electric-motor cooling systems, and it’s important that you recommend work on these systems be performed by a professional if there’s any question about proper procedures.
Air Conditioning
This is another area to use caution, but you’ll certainly get questions about it. Air-conditioning systems on today’s cars in general require a higher level of care when servicing due to the lower volume of refrigerant and the critical nature of the oil volume in the system. HEVs have high-voltage electric compressors so they can run with the engine off, and the A/C systems also work to cool the electric-motor battery packs in addition to the interior of the car.
Not only does proper A/C service require accuracy only attained by modern equipment, but with the compressor being one of the high-voltage components, it should only be serviced by a professional.
Additional Opportunities
There are ample opportunities for underhood sales in addition to regular maintenance items. Anything that can happen to an ICE in a standard vehicle can happen to an ICE in an HEV. Coolant leaks, oil leaks, sensors, switches, pulleys – any of these things are normal problems that occur and normal components that wear out. When it comes to selling parts for an HEV, think BLT: bacon, lettuce and tomato. The bacon and the lettuce are still there. Even the bread is the same. The tomato is just a little different.
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By Counterman
Rack-and-pinion steering is the predominant type of steering system on vehicles today.
Simplicity is one of the reasons for their popularity. On these systems, an inner and outer tie-rod end on each side connects the steering rack to the steering knuckle. The inner tie-rod ends tend to last longer than the outers because they have a smaller range of motion, and they simply don’t get the same abuse as the outers on these systems.
Throughout the life of a vehicle with rack-and-pinion steering, it’s not uncommon to replace outer tie-rod ends multiple times, and rarely or never replace the inners – as long as the boot (also known as bellows) that protects them from dirt and moisture isn’t damaged.
Before rack-and-pinion steering became popular, a parallelogram steering linkage was the predominant setup on most cars and trucks, consisting of a pitman arm, idler arm, center link and inner and outer tie-rod ends on each side. The tie rods are connected by a tie-rod sleeve. Even after rack-and-pinion systems became popular and virtually standard on all cars, parallelogram steering remained in use on trucks, vans and heavy-duty vehicles for many years, but today rack-and-pinion is becoming more common on them too.
There’s another type of steering system you may run across, also common on some trucks and heavy-duty vehicles, and it consists of a drag link and tie rods. The difference is there’s no idler arm. A drag link goes from the pitman arm to a tie rod that connects to the steering knuckle, and second tie rod runs from the first to the other steering knuckle.
Terminology can vary, but don’t let that throw you. In this illustration, No. 4 is the drag link, No. 2 and No. 1 are tie rods. Some people may refer to the drag link as an inner and outer tie rod. Also note No. 6, a steering damper, is a common feature on heavy-duty vehicles.
When selling steering components, it can be useful to look at a diagram, in case your customer is unsure of the name of the component they need. You also can use it as an aid in pointing out additional items they may need.
The Quality Question
It’s not uncommon to be asked about quality, especially with the different lines and varying cost of the steering components you sell. The “economy” or “value” line is designed to make it affordable to repair a vehicle. There’s nothing wrong with these components. I’ve used them many times, and they’re as safe as any other. Will they last as long? Most likely not, but many people choose to go this way because it’s simply all they can afford, and we all can respect that.
On heavy-duty or vehicles that the owner plans to keep long-term, it’s best to recommend a higher-end line of components. They’ll last longer, and you also can remind your customer that every time you replace a steering component, an alignment must be performed. That’s an additional cost, and worn components also will cause abnormal tire wear. A less expensive component that doesn’t last as long actually might cost more in the long run.
Where’s the Grease Fitting?
Fewer steering components come with grease fittings than in the past. Many people perceive this as a sign of “cheap” or low quality. This is far from the case. Many high-quality steering components today are constructed with better materials and higher-quality lubricants. Lack of a grease fitting doesn’t mean low quality. But it does mean there’s no way a poor-quality lubricant can be added to the joint, it can’t be over-greased, and there’s no way for moisture or contaminants to find their way in either.
Here’s the kicker: Is your customer going to personally grease the fittings themselves? As a professional technician, if I had a nickel for every greaseable joint I’ve seen that was completely worn out, with not even a remote sign of grease ever having touched the zerk fitting … you know the rest. This is reality. Blame it on whomever. If the greaseable joints aren’t going to be greased, I’d rather have those not designed for it.
Extras
There are a few good suggestions to keep in mind when selling steering components. If it’s a rack-and-pinion vehicle, rack boots are a good suggestion since the outer tie-rod ends must be removed to replace them. On parallelogram steering, when tie rods are replaced, tie-rod adjusting sleeves are a huge benefit. These are almost always rusted in place and difficult to loosen and turn. New sleeves make the installation much quicker, as well as the alignment. If the vehicle has a steering damper, it’s always a great recommendation. These tend to get ignored, but are commonly worn out. And finally, don’t forget grease for the grease gun, and shop rags to clean up the mess.
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