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What differnece do you know about 2019 Tacoma?
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By NAPA
In some ways electric vehicles are just like any other vehicle on the road. Wheels are powered to move passengers from one place to another along a roadway. It’s the same basic principle that carried us past the days of the horse and buggy. In fact many of the early horseless carriages were actually electric powered. But modern electric vehicles deal in much higher voltages and amperages than anything on the road in the past few decades. Anyone who already works on internal combustion engine (ICE) powered vehicles probably has a link hidden, please login to view, but when it comes to servicing hybrid and electric vehicles (EV) there are a few more things to consider. Let’s take a look at EV tools versus ICE tools and learn what you might need for your EV tool kit.
Hand Tools
Starting with hand tools the functions are pretty much the same. A screwdriver still has a handle and a tip, wrenches still have jaws, sockets still have six or twelve points. The big difference comes down to stopping the flow of electricity either through the tool or to the user. You’ve probably seen insulated tools before, likely a screwdriver in a set. These are pretty common for household electrical work. But did you know there are insulated tools and then there are non-conductive (composite) tools?
An insulated tool is typically made of metal (like a normal tool) which is then covered with a non-conductive substance like epoxy or rubber. This interrupts the flow of electricity from the tool to the user’s hand. But insulated tools need to be checked regularly to verify if the insulating coating is still intact. Some tools use different colored insulation layers to signal if a tool is ready for replacement. If the warning layer is visible, the tool is no longer safe to use. The last point is one that normally isn’t a part of hand tool ownership. Hand tools either work or they are broken. Insulated electric tools may still technically work as say a wrench, but they will not be safe to use around electrical components once the insulation has been compromised.
Composite tools are actually made differently than normal tools. For example a composite ratchet will have a handle made completely of a strong non-conductive material with no metal inside. This prevents electricity from traveling from the head of the ratchet to the user’s hand. Composite sockets will still have a metal hex insert, but that metal is attached to a strong non-conductive composite, and then to the square drive. The non-conductive material breaks the circuit and blocks the flow of electricity.
Diagnostic Tools
Working on any modern vehicle requires the right diagnostic equipment regardless of the power source. While a
link hidden, please login to viewworking on an electric vehicle won’t be diagnosing ignition or emissions problems, they will be chasing down other normal issues like bad sensors or damaged modules. But one difference in EV tools vs. ICE tools is the power handling capability of the electric vehicle diagnostic tool. For example any link hidden, please login to viewintended to be used on an electric vehicle must be rated CAT III to handle the high voltages often found inside these vehicles. Likewise the link hidden, please login to view need to be also rated for higher voltage use. While internal combustion engines are starting to use 48-volt systems in areas, some electric vehicles operate in the hundreds of volts so special EV diagnostic tools are a must. Shop Tools
Your shop may already be well equipped to work on common internal combustion vehicles, but there are some special electric vehicle repair tools you may need to consider. For example, your two-post lift likely needs different footpads to correctly lift electric vehicles. You also need to make sure your lift can be configured to handle different vehicle weight biases (front to rear) for balanced lifting. Speaking of lifting, many electric vehicle and hybrid batteries weigh a considerable amount and are mounted to the bottom of the vehicle. Safely removing one of these batteries should be left up to a specialized lifting table designed for the task.
Most people are not aware that air conditioning compressors used in hybrid and electric vehicles have a special type of oil that is designed to be non-conductive. That means you will need an
link hidden, please login to view that can prevent cross-contamination between systems. Considering that the air conditioning compressor on a hybrid or electric vehicle is powered by a high-power electric motor rather than an engine pulley, the different oil requirement makes sense. Safety Equipment
It’s a good idea to wear gloves when working on any vehicle, but when working on an electric or hybrid vehicle it is mandatory. Specifically
link hidden, please login to view designed to handle high voltage. Gloves must also be tested before each use for any tears/cuts/leaks/wear that might allow a path for electricity to travel. A good pair of ASTM F 2413-11 safety boots with EH (electrical hazard) rating is also recommended. It is also important to let others know when a technician is working on a hybrid or electric vehicle. Placing
link hidden, please login to view around the bay and a line of link hidden, please login to view signals to others that the vehicle is not to be approached. The safety gear worn by the technician is only designed to protect one person, all others must keep their distance during servicing of electric vehicle components. Any shop that is considering working on electric or hybrid vehicles needs an insulated rescue hook. In the unfortunate event of a technician suffering an accident while working on an electrical component the insulated rescue hook allows the victim to be pulled away from the electrical source without endangering the rescuer. This also means that a technician should never work on a hybrid or electric vehicle alone, there should always be another person present in the shop.
Lastly anyone attempting to service an electric or hybrid vehicle should be properly trained. Old fashioned “on the job” training may be fine for most maintenance procedures on a normal car, the same cannot be said for electric or hybrid vehicles. The potential power output of an EV battery is just too high to risk working on a vehicle without at least basic training. Luckily
link hidden, please login to viewcan help anyone acquire the right training they need to become a successful technician capable of handling electric and hybrid vehicles. The post
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By MCT
2019 KAWASAKI MULE PRO-MX
MIDSIZE MULE™ MODEL JOINS KAWASAKI MULE™PRO SIDE X SIDE LINE UP
Following multiple accolades for its MULE™ PRO series, Kawasaki continues to grow the MULE PRO family with the addition of the all-new MULE PRO-MX™ side x side to the 2019 lineup. The MULE PRO-MX features increased recreational abilities and rugged,no-nonsense styling that further establishes the mid-size, compact side x side as the customer’s dependable choice for work or play.
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By Counterman
PRT is expanding its portfolio of complete strut assemblies, as it announced first-to-market applications for the 2019 Honda CR-V.
The Honda CR-V is one of best-selling vehicles in the United States. The complete strut assemblies apply to front right and front left positions, and fit the EX, EX-L, LX and Touring trim levels.
The product launch represents an additional 380,000 vehicles in new coverage, according to the company.
PRT is a brand of the ADD USA group, one of the largest exporters of complete strut assemblies in the world. PRT products are manufactured under the strictest OE quality processes required by the major automakers.
“These first-to-market applications reinforce our commitment in bringing innovative solutions to all our clients,” said Bruno Bello, director of global category and marketing at PRT. “As an OEM supplier, we are continually investing in research and development of brand-new products for both the OE market and aftermarket.”
For more information about PRT products, call 770-238-1611 or visit
link hidden, please login to view. On social networks, follow PRT @prtautoparts. The post
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By Counterman
Many years ago, in high school to be exact, a friend of mine drove a 1980 Ford Thunderbird. He began to complain that the vehicle was losing power and it was getting worse and worse. I was always working on my own car and generally was known as a “car guy,” so he asked me what I thought. I asked him if he had checked the air filter recently. “Air filter?” he responded.
Admittedly, I knew very little about cars at the time, and my response was the only thing I could think of. Out to the parking lot we went. Not being able to get the lid off the air cleaner was a bad sign, and when we finally did, completely plugged was an understatement. Naturally, a new air filter fixed his problem. I was a little full of myself after that, but I never told anyone it was a lucky guess.
Even though I’ve never seen one that bad since, as a technician, I’ve had many opportunities to sell air filters. The job is a little easier for us because we are most likely holding a visual representation in our hands – one we can show the customer. This is a tactic that often works well, especially if you have a new one to compare side-by-side.
Sometimes it’s an easier sell than others, as some people understand the importance of the air filter; this usually is the staunch oil-change crowd. But, others are skeptical and take a little more convincing.
Selling, for me, always has been based on fact. I often first ask if they can remember the last time it was changed. If not, it’s probably due for replacement, and I stick to the once-a-year rule. But you always have to make exceptions based on an inspection, and with vehicles that are driven only seasonally or driven very little, at minimum I have to see dirt collecting in the base of the pleats, or a noticeable discoloration before recommending replacement.
If a customer is still skeptical, I explain that since a plugged air filter can completely keep a vehicle from running, even 10% blockage can begin to affect performance. I also like to point out that the effects of a dirty filter were more noticeable on older vehicles, and modern fuel-management systems can compensate for reduced air flow. This is good for drivability and emissions, but bad for overall performance. Along with other normal maintenance items, it’s easy for a vehicle owner to overlook a dirty or plugged air filter with no warning signs from their vehicle.
Be prepared for questions about high-performance, because you will get them. Many people ask about high-flow filters, cold-air intakes or, on an older vehicle, ditching the original air cleaner for a round chrome replacement. Don’t be intimidated by performance questions. Here’s what you need to know to answer them with confidence.
High-Flow Filters
High-flow performance filters are a very common upgrade. They typically are recognized and associated with a color, as opposed to the traditional white paper element. Often pinkish/red, the color is from a dyed oil that’s soaked into the element. The elements typically are a cotton weave, held in place by a wire mesh. The weave is looser than a standard paper air filter, allowing a greater volume of air to pass through.
Since the loose weave cannot filter out the smaller particles, it is soaked in oil, and the particles will, in turn, stick to the oil. Dye is used in the oil so there is an easily noticeable contrast between the oil and the element, allowing you to ensure that all areas are saturated. Even though red is the most common, there are multiple other colors available.
These types of filters absolutely flow better, and it’s often noticeable in engine-performance characteristics. But they do require regular cleaning and re-oiling to maintain their level of performance. You can be confident about selling them and touting the increased flow, but I do warn people that when they clean and oil them, be sure to heed the instructions, and don’t over-oil them. There always have been “rumors” of these types of filters damaging mass airflow sensors, but they are largely unfounded, and over-oiling them is the only thing that could possibly contribute to this.
American History
If you have a customer with an old car who wants to install a round chrome air cleaner, you might not change their mind, but there are many facts about the original factory air cleaners that often are overlooked. Many people think they’re an eyesore compared to a shiny new chrome one, but there’s a lot more to them than meets the eye.
The inside of the air cleaner is designed to smoothly direct the airflow up to the top while reducing turbulence, so the air can be smoothly drawn down through the carburetor. They have a snorkel extending off them to pick up cool air from the side of the engine compartment, and the snorkel also is designed to increase the velocity of the air as it enters the air cleaner.
In addition, the snorkel design incorporates a pickup for warm air to be drawn from around the exhaust manifold up into the air cleaner for improved cold-weather drivability. On the main body of the air cleaner, there also is a filtered pickup for fresh air into the crankcase as part of the positive crankcase ventilation system, so they are important for emissions too.
Theoretically, this is all great information, but if someone wants a chrome air cleaner, I get it. They look great, and they’re a common characteristic of some old muscle cars. The completely exposed element offers the maximum amount of airflow necessary for the type of performance sought in these cars.
The minor affect on drivability due to lack of a heat riser and less air velocity at low RPM isn’t missed on a car with straight-line, high-RPM performance in mind, and one that most likely is only driven in the summer. I do like to point out that there were a handful of top-dog muscle cars that originally came with chrome open-element air cleaners. On these cars, the crankcase ventilation was routed to the air-filter base, and the aftermarket units generally have a stamped breakout in the base and come with a fitting so this can be reconnected. I always encourage them to reconnect these emission-related devices.
If your customer is replacing the air filter on an old vehicle with an OE air cleaner, it’s important to use a high-quality filter and always look it up for the application. You can’t see it when the lid is on, but the filter is designed to seal on the top and bottom so that all air flows through it. If a filter is installed that’s even a little bit too short, unfiltered air will be drawn over the top of the filter into the engine, plus mice can fit through just about any small crack, and that carburetor is an awfully inviting cubby to store the kibbles and bits you keep in the garage.
How’s Your Cabin Filter?
When a customer asks about an air filter, it opens the door to other opportunities. The most prevalent is the cabin filter. Most vehicles have them now, and as common as they are, the majority of them still get neglected. There’s a lot at stake inside the heater box, and aside from the obvious benefit of fresh air, it’s the clean, dry air flowing through the system that can prevent bacteria, odors and corrosion of the A/C evaporator and heater core. It’s nice to have all the knowledge, but it’s important to use it to your advantage. I’m careful about directly answering questions and not going too deep. Let your customer guide the direction of the sale. If they want stock, go stock. If they want performance, go performance. If you get too deep, you can scare someone off. Present them with fact, caution them when necessary and share the part of your knowledge that helps the sale. After all, that’s our goal and that’s how we make a living.
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