Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Welcome to Auto Parts Forum

    Whether you are a veteran automotive parts guru or just someone looking for some quick auto parts advice, register today and start a new topic in our forum. Registration is free and you can even sign up with social network platforms such as Facebook, Twitter, Google, and LinkedIn. 

     

Become A Pro On Shocks And Struts


Recommended Posts

Selling shocks and struts simply comes down to knowledge, and sometimes it’s a little tricky because many of our customers confuse the difference between shocks, springs and struts. So, let’s start by clarifying the difference with information you can pass on the next time you get into the conversation across the counter.

The suspension of a vehicle includes every component that supports the weight of the vehicle and travels up and down in response to the road surface, driving conditions or vehicle load. Springs are the components that support that actual weight of the vehicle, but they’re just one part of the suspension. Shock absorbers are the components that dampen the movement of the springs, but again, they too are just one part of the suspension.

In a traditional upper and lower A-arm front suspension (one of the oldest styles), the shocks and springs mount in separate locations, and the springs are either coil or torsion-bar type. Vehicles with this type of suspension – such as older full-frame vehicles and full-size trucks – typically have solid-axle leaf- or coil-spring rear suspension, in which, of course, the springs and shocks also are separate components.

Struts

The term “strut” is a shortened reference to the MacPherson strut design of suspension. A strut suspension differs from a “traditional” suspension in the manner that the spring and shock are assembled together as a unit that mounts to the vehicle body on top, and an axle component on the bottom. The top of the assembled unit includes rubber mounting, and in the case of front suspension, a bearing to allow it to rotate in response to steering (Figure 1).

link hidden, please login to view

The assembled coil-spring and shock-absorber unit is referred to as the strut, but from a functional standpoint, you can still think of them as a shock, spring and related mounting components – because that’s all they are.

Coil-Overs

So, what’s a coil-over? It’s a coil spring mounted over a shock absorber (Figure 2). Sound sort of like a strut? Guess what? It’s basically the same thing. The only difference is that coil-overs typically are smaller with adjustable coil-spring perches, which makes them a very versatile choice for performance suspensions, allowing adjustable ride height and use in a variety of suspension designs. But again, don’t let the fancy name throw you: It’s just a spring and a shock.

link hidden, please login to view

In addition to these, there are many different types and variations of suspension; definitely a topic for another article, but for the sake of this discussion, regardless of what they are, there are always springs that support the weight of the vehicle and shocks that dampen the movement. Most new cars and small SUVs have strut front suspension. Some have strut rear suspension, but separate coil-spring/shock-absorber rear suspensions are just as common. Full-size trucks and SUVs typically have upper/lower A-arm suspension in front and leaf-spring suspension in the rear.

For many years, suspension springs in general were never a problem for technicians. They rarely broke, and it took a long time before they sagged or weakened, regardless of the style of suspension. Shocks wore out frequently – a common problem – and we’ve all replaced many shocks over the years. If it was a car that had strut suspension front or rear, you removed the strut assembly, compressed the coil spring, removed the top plate and disassembled the strut.

Parts of a strut included the upper plate/bearing, coil spring, bump stop, dust boot, various washers or spacers and the shock-absorber/strut housing itself (Figure 3). Sometimes, the lower spring perch is a separate piece that slides onto the shock/strut housing, and sometimes it’s part of the strut housing. The shock-absorber/strut housing may be one piece (not serviceable), but often, replacing the shock absorber itself was yet another step that included removing a large nut on the top of the strut housing and sliding it out.

The strut housing was reused, a new shock was installed (or if not serviceable, the housing was replaced), then the original spring was reinstalled along with a new upper mount and hardware. I’ve probably done it a thousand times, until … dun, dun dun …the quick strut!

But before we get into that fast fix, let’s drive it home with a final word of wisdom: Shocks are not struts, and struts are not shocks, but a shock is part of a strut. The closest you get is when the strut housing isn’t serviceable, and the shock absorber and strut housing are one piece. On a vehicle that has separate suspension springs and shocks, you can replace one or the other. On a vehicle that has strut suspension, you also can replace one or the other. Think about it like this: Regardless of the type of suspension, the same components are there, and they do the same things – they just differ in the way they are put together.

link hidden, please login to view

Every time a shock absorber is collapsed or expanded, oil is forced between different chambers, through a small orifice inside. The effort that it takes to force the oil through is what dampens the suspension movement, and you can feel the resistance when you attempt to move the shock rod by hand.

What makes them good or bad? If there’s no resistance in the movement of the shock rod, the shock is bad. It can’t dampen the movement of the suspension, and when you hit a bump, the car will bounce like a pogo stick. On the freeways around here, I see it at least once a day.

Traditional shock absorbers commonly experience aeration, meaning air bubbles mix in the oil. This causes a similar effect as air in brake fluid, and the performance of the shock absorber diminishes. The solution? A gas-charged shock. The pressure keeps the air bubbles from forming, creating consistent performance. Traditional shocks tend to provide a slightly smoother ride; the type of ride we are used to in a big-old car, whereas gas-charged shocks will stiffen up the ride feel slightly but offer better handling performance.

Service Life of Shocks

How long a shock absorber lasts depends on many factors such as age and mileage, but one of the biggest is initial quality. I’ve seen them last anywhere from one to 15 years, and with all the variables, it just comes down to one question: Are they still good? There are two things to look at. One, are they leaking? If they leak oil, they are probably bad, but not always. Some shocks can exhibit minor signs of seepage, yet they still operate correctly. The second – and the ultimate determining factor – is the bounce test.

With the vehicle sitting on the ground, quickly push down on the suspension and release it. Focus on one spot of the vehicle and watch closely. The vehicle should return to its original height and stop dead. No wiggle, no jiggle – a dead stop exactly where it started. A slight hop above, then a return to original height, means the shocks are worn. If they’re completely wasted, it’ll pogo-stick where it sits.

The bounce test is the only way you can accurately assess performance, and a visual inspection for leaks or worn mount bushings, coupled with age and mileage, can help you determine if it’s time to replace the shocks, or if it’s time to plan for it in the near future. Recognizing the fine line between good and bad shocks can take some experience, and there’s a point where they can begin to adversely affect tire wear and braking distance before any noticeable handling or ride-related symptoms appear, so tire and brake wear should also be considerations when assessing shock condition.

At this point shocks may seem cut-and-dry, but there are some additional topics that may come up when selling them, and it’s good to be prepared with an answer.

Compression/Rebound

When the shock rod travels in, it’s considered the compression stage of operation; when the rod travels back out, it’s considered the rebound stage. The percentage of compression and rebound stage can differ depending on the application of the shock, but normal shock operation is about 25% compression stage and 75% rebound. This allows the suspension spring to react quicker to the road surface for the
best ride.

One of the most common examples of different compression/rebound rates is on the front shocks of a drag car. A 90/10 shock absorber is the most common application here, meaning 90% of the effort to move the shock rod occurs during compression, and it only takes 10% of the force to allow the shock to rebound. On a drag car, under heavy acceleration, this allows the front end to come up easily – shifting the weight to the rear wheels for traction – then slowly allows the suspension to settle to prevent bouncing in the front.

You’ll also see 60/40 or 50/50 percentages depending on the type of racing, performance or ride intended by a manufacturer, and maybe even something different than what I’ve listed here. Generally, you’ll be selling shocks by application, so you won’t have to be concerned about the numbers. But, you never know when someone might ask, so it’s always good to know.

Adjustable Shocks

Many performance shocks are built with adjustable valving, allowing you to change the compression and rebound rates to suit your needs. The adjustments can generally be made by an accessible knob on the side or top of the shock. Some shocks offer adjustment for only one aspect, some offer it for both. This also is the basic idea behind many modern suspensions that offer adjustable dampening, such as luxury or sport mode options. Instead of a manual adjustment to change compression and rebound rates, the adjustment is performed by a built-in electronic actuator that receives its signals from the vehicle control unit.

Measuring Shocks

Sometimes it becomes necessary to measure the required length of a shock absorber for a vehicle that’s been raised or lowered, changing the suspension travel. This is especially common for lifted trucks. If the question comes your way, it’s not hard to do. The specs you will need are compressed and extended height, but there are three measurements to take to get them.

Park the vehicle on level ground, then first measure the static height, which is simply the distance between the upper and lower shock mounting points. For this to be an accurate measurement, you’ll have to remove the shock. Next, with the vehicle still on level ground, measure the distance between suspension bump stop and the contact point for the bump stop. Subtract this from the static height and you have your compressed height.

To get extended height, jack up the vehicle so the wheel is off the ground, support it with a jack stand (for safety), then measure again between the upper and lower shock mounting points.

Load-Supporting Shocks

Many traditional shock absorbers are designed to assist the suspension when towing or hauling heavy loads. These are available as both air- and spring-assisted types. They are not designed to increase the load-carrying ability of a vehicle, but rather to help maintain the proper ride height and prevent bottoming out with a heavy load. Spring-assisted shocks offer a consistent load assist without affecting ride quality, and air shocks are adjustable to handle a wider range of varying loads but are designed to have the additional pressure released when the load is removed so the ride height returns to normal.

Selling Struts

When a customer comes in and wants to buy struts, the first thing that should come to your mind is what do they really need? Do they need a complete strut assembly? Or do they just need a strut housing? Maybe they only need shocks and just have their terminology wrong. Once you determine they indeed need struts, most likely you will direct them to a quick strut.

As I mentioned earlier, we always used to rebuild struts. It never seemed like a problem to me, but then again, I was used to it, and broken coil springs were never much of a problem. Then, all of a sudden, coil springs started breaking frequently, and some cars were known for it. When it came to a repair, it was common to find the shock leaking, and since you had everything apart, it didn’t make sense to replace the spring with an old shock. Then you found that the strut mounts were worn, so you ordered those too.

No matter how you looked at it, you had a lot of parts and a lot of labor involved. Then came the quick-strut: a fully assembled strut with new spring, shock, strut mounts and everything, ready to bolt in. On vehicles that needed everything, this proved to be an efficient solution.

Do I use them all the time? No. They’re not available for all vehicles, and in some cases on certain performance vehicles, the OE equipment is the best and only option for quality and customer satisfaction. You may have to do it the old-fashioned way.

But for many applications – especially on older high-mileage vehicles – if the shock is completely worn out, you can bet the rest of the components are too, and it just makes sense. Sure, a lot of technicians like them because it makes the job much quicker and you don’t have to fight with a coil spring, but it more importantly gives you a big advantage in selling to DIYers, because most likely they don’t have the tools to compress the spring.

Some final extras are sway-bar links, which often attach to a bracket on the strut housing. They’re often hard to remove and it’s probably a good time to replace them too. Shock absorbers should come with all needed hardware, and some shocks and struts are bushing-mounted at the bottom. As with any suspension bushings, these should be tightened with the vehicle at ride height to prevent premature wear of the bushing.

The post

link hidden, please login to view
appeared first on
link hidden, please login to view
.

link hidden, please login to view

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By RockAuto
      Save up to $75 on KYB Shocks, Struts and Complete Assemblies!View on RockAuto.com
    • By Counterman
      Quick struts, loaded struts, strut plus – there are many names on the market for a complete strut assembly, with different brands assigning their own catchy term to their version of the product. I don’t have a preference, although any time I hear the term “loaded,” I immediately think of a baked potato. I picture a piping-hot spud, covered in melted cheese, bacon bits, sour cream and chives, so maybe that’s my favorite one. Did I grow up in the fast-food generation or what?
      So, what’s in a name? Loaded – in baked-potato terms – meant you were getting it all, and in the case of struts, it means the same thing. In the June 2022 issue of Counterman, I dug into the difference between shocks and struts. If you read the article, you’ll remember that terminology was a big part of it, and it’s always been one of the more challenging facets of selling parts. The same thing can have multiple different names, depending on the manufacturer, or the technician working on the car.
      The term strut is a reference to the main component in a MacPherson-strut suspension design. The strut itself is the suspension spring and shock absorber assembled together as a unit, which also includes mounting bushings, spring insulators and turn bearings. Replacing a bad component in a strut assembly requires a special coil-spring compressor, so the unit can be safely disassembled.
      By definition, the individual parts only made a strut when they were all assembled, but over time, just the shock absorber itself came to be known as the strut. I speculate this was primarily to provide an accurate description of what we were looking for – to differentiate the fact we were working on a strut suspension as opposed to a “traditional” upper-lower A-arm design. So, you could argue that a “loaded” strut is a contradiction of terms, but it really doesn’t matter. Who cares what we call things, right! As long as we get our customers the right stuff!
      Emergence of the Assembled Strut
      Before the common availability of a complete strut assembly, replacing a bad component in a strut required a coil-spring compressor so the unit could be safely disassembled. It was far more labor-intensive, and you always had to use caution working with the coil spring. Typically, a bad shock absorber was the component that was being replaced. But, technicians often discovered that one of the other components such as a bushing or bearing would show considerable wear upon disassembly. Nobody wants to reassemble something with worn parts, but since many of the components weren’t considered “normal” service items, we’d often have to wait a day or two to
      get them.
      This, of course, made for an inefficient repair, but it’s not the ultimate reason that assembled struts became popular. When strut suspension systems first became popular, they were used on small, lightweight front-wheel-drive vehicles. As a result, the coil springs rarely wore out or broke, and the only component that went bad a lot was the shock absorber itself, so it was common to disassemble the strut just to replace the shock.
      As the strut-suspension design became more popular and the many advantages of it became clear, it quickly found its way onto full-size sedans and trucks. All of a sudden, the struts were no longer holding up meager economy cars, and we began to see broken coil springs, worn bearings and strut mounts and worn spring insulators, on top of worn shocks. Almost every time you disassembled a strut, you found that all the components needed to be replaced.
      Stocking all the different strut components for every make and model was unrealistic on one hand, but necessary on the other, and the idea of offering a completely assembled strut was a welcome revelation. Limited at first to a few of the most common models, the idea took off quickly, and now there’s an impressive list of coverage.
      The Assembled-Strut Advantage
      The advantages for a counter professional, a technician or a DIYer can be summed up the same way for all of us: It’s simply easier. Technicians prefer them, and almost always ask for them first. DIYers may not be familiar with them, so as a counter professional, you may have to explain the advantages.
      Safety might be No. 1. There’s no danger involved when you don’t have to compress and remove the coil spring, and it saves on the tool too, which a DIYer will either need to borrow or buy. Even though it’s possible that purchasing a single component such as a shock absorber or coil spring may be less expensive, the process of building or assembling the strut is where the biggest hurdle can arise.
      Overall, there aren’t too many different pieces involved, but there are almost always some types of spacers and washers. Placement is critical, and it’s easy to make mistakes or lose one of the small components without realizing it. You can end up with a strut that rattles excessively or, in the case of a front strut, binds up during turns. Purchasing an assembled strut eliminates the possibility of any of these problems.
      As a technician or service advisor, we can represent the advantage of time savings, which translates to less labor charged to the customer. In addition, the advantage of all-new components allows us to guarantee proper performance, no noise or rattles, and a longer-term repair. If you replace only one component in the interest of saving money, perhaps another one of the strut components goes bad a few months down the road. You’re no longer saving money at this point.
      Drawbacks?
      I’d like to say no, but instead I’ll say no … with exceptions. Overall, assembled struts make sense. But it’s a good idea to consider what they’re going on. As with many components, there are economy versions and top-of-the-line versions. It’s an undeniable fact that the economy versions won’t last the same amount of time as the original OE strut on any vehicle. Of course, you won’t represent them as a poor-quality part to your customer, but you can represent your top-of-the-line as higher-quality, longer-lasting and better-performing, then let your customer make the decision.
      On older vehicles where cost and a safe level of operation are the primary concerns, economy struts may make the most sense. The flip side is vehicles that still have many years left on the road, and it’s always a good idea to recommend the highest quality in these situations.
      The fact of the matter is that struts affect the safety, handling and braking of a vehicle. It’s a difference that can be easily noticeable, and the more performance-oriented the vehicle, the easier it will be to notice the difference between high- and low-quality struts.
      I mentioned that technicians prefer assembled struts, and we know the advantages they offer. But, we also know that we can make more money on our labor installing them. It’s quick and easy for us, so we’ll end up ahead of the flat-rate time. Even though we get more time for rebuilding a strut, it usually takes us all the allotted time, so we lose our flat-rate advantage.
      This can be a sticky point for some technicians, but an assembled strut isn’t always the best choice. A perfect example would be a high-end European vehicle. These are cars that handle very well, and the owners expect this type of performance. I’ve seen cases where assembled struts are available, but the performance just isn’t up to par with the OE equipment.
      Regardless of make, when it’s a performance-oriented vehicle, it’s important to ask questions to determine your customers’ expectation. Though there are times when these cars can be just as old and beat-up as any other, and maybe the owner is just looking for an economical repair, if you suspect they’re looking for a high level of performance, recommend that they use OE parts, which in most cases means getting each piece individually from the dealer.
      As a counter professional, you don’t want to lose sales and refer someone away from buying what you offer. But, in a situation like this, it’s the trust and rapport that you build with the customer that’s important. The same customer with a high-end vehicle may have multiple other vehicles they’re responsible for maintaining – for example, their children’s cars – and if you always point them in the right direction, a lost sale one day can mean multiple sales the next.
      A Few More Details
      Struts always should be replaced in pairs. Do you have to? Technically, no, and I’m sure you’ve already had customers who only buy one. But it’s the same theory with brakes. Only replacing one side means you’ll have unequal performance side-to-side, and as we all know, if one side wears out, the other isn’t too far behind.
      An alignment always should be checked anytime the struts are replaced. Whenever the suspension, front or rear, is disassembled in any manner, the possibility of affecting the alignment exists, and in the case of struts, ride height could change slightly when going from worn coil springs to new ones.
      When the strut is a bolt-on design, it’s a good idea to advise your customer to pay attention to the bolts, especially if they’re camber bolts. Marking their location gives you a good reference for installing the new strut, keeping the alignment as close as possible. That makes the alignment easier, and is much better if the vehicle needs to be driven to an alignment shop.
      Upsells
      My favorite add-ons for strut work are caliper hangers, bungee cords, nylon wire ties and penetrating oil. During removal, you’ll often run across brake hoses and ABS harnesses that are secured to the strut via a small bracket. The bolts are usually small, and penetrating oil usually is the trick to keep them from breaking. After detaching any hoses or brackets, it’s a good idea to secure them out of the way. The struts are heavy and awkward, and this helps you avoid snagging them as you wrestle the strut out of the fender well.
      When the strut is disconnected from the steering knuckle, the suspension naturally will want to drop. In some cases, it doesn’t or doesn’t drop much, but you should be aware of the possibility, and securing it up with a caliper hanger or bungee cords will prevent it from pulling down on the brake hoses and ABS wiring.
      Finally, when you have the strut out, it’s a good time to look closely at CV boots. Many cars require separating the strut from the knuckle to remove a CV shaft, and if you’re in there already, it’s the perfect time to do it.
      The post
      link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view.
      link hidden, please login to view
    • By MCT
      2019 KAWASAKI MULE PRO-MX
      MIDSIZE MULE™ MODEL JOINS KAWASAKI MULE™PRO SIDE X SIDE LINE UP
      Following multiple accolades for its MULE™ PRO series, Kawasaki continues to grow the MULE PRO family with the addition of the all-new MULE PRO-MX™ side x side to the 2019 lineup. The MULE PRO-MX features increased recreational abilities and rugged,no-nonsense styling that further establishes the mid-size, compact side x side as the customer’s dependable choice for work or play.

      link hidden, please login to view
    • By Counterman
      In the October issue of AMN/Counterman, we talked about the Automotive Sales Council’s
      link hidden, please login to view – an initiative that aims to reduce the sky-high return rate in the automotive aftermarket. Members of the Automotive Sales Council include representatives from KYB, Dorman Products, FDP Brakes, Motorcar Parts of America, MotoRad and Standard Motor Products. The group developed the “Check the Part” campaign to hit home with counter professionals, who are on the front lines of processing parts returns and weeding out warranty abuse.
      Endorsed by AASA and the Auto Care Association, the campaign’s messaging is simple:
      √ Open the box.
      √ Inspect the part.
      √ Verify the return.
      Shocks and Struts
      Recently, KYB published a return guide for shocks and struts. If a customer wants to return shocks or struts, KYB offers these five tips to help determine if it’s a valid warranty claim or not.
      Confirm that the brand on the part matches the brand on the box. Some customers might try to return worn OEM parts, or parts from a different aftermarket brand. If the part hasn’t been installed previously, it can be returned – but it should not be processed as a warranty. You can check if a shock is missing hardware by looking at images on the manufacturer’s website. If a part is missing hardware, you can order hardware and place the part back into inventory. A part that was damaged during installation can be denied as a warranty claim. Inspect the rod for vice-grip marks. If a shock or strut is leaking, someone likely used vice grips during installation and those marks damaged the seal, causing a fluid leak. This is not a valid reason for a warranty and should be denied. You can download a PDF of the return guide below:
      link hidden, please login to view link hidden, please login to view The post
      link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view.
      link hidden, please login to view
    • eManualonline.com - Save 5% OFF on orders Over $50, Use Code Blaze. Ends 12/31/22.
    • By Counterman
      PRT is expanding its portfolio of complete strut assemblies, as it announced first-to-market applications for the 2019 Honda CR-V.
      The Honda CR-V is one of best-selling vehicles in the United States. The complete strut assemblies apply to front right and front left positions, and fit the EX, EX-L, LX and Touring trim levels.
      The product launch represents an additional 380,000 vehicles in new coverage, according to the company.
      PRT is a brand of the ADD USA group, one of the largest exporters of complete strut assemblies in the world. PRT products are manufactured under the strictest OE quality processes required by the major automakers.
      “These first-to-market applications reinforce our commitment in bringing innovative solutions to all our clients,” said Bruno Bello, director of global category and marketing at PRT. “As an OEM supplier, we are continually investing in research and development of brand-new products for both the OE market and aftermarket.”
      For more information about PRT products, call 770-238-1611 or visit
      link hidden, please login to view. On social networks, follow PRT @prtautoparts. The post
      link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view.
      link hidden, please login to view

×
  • Create New...