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Database Title: 1899-2019 Auto Parts Catalog Data by Make, Year, Model, Engine / Trim (US)
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Database Price: $279.00 / year
Samples or Demo: (Please see 'Data Samples' section)
Download Size: 47.11 GB + 403.21 GB
Number of Tables: 18
Primary Table Records: 40,140,182
Last Update: 2020-10-01
Description: This is an auto parts catalog data set with a total of 40,140,182 auto parts for the North America markets, including vehicle parts for models, engines, and trims of United States, Canada, and Mexico. Each part has oem numbers, price, description, images, and are classified by 246 makes, 5,670 years, 30,920 models, 55,977 engines or trims, and 572 manufacturers, etc., and also by 26 top categories and further by 4,165 secondary categories.
There are 18 tables in this database. The part images package has 13,818,499 files.
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Download Size: 403.21 GB
Number of Items: 13,818,499
Samples or Demo: (Please see 'Media Files' section)
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By Hot Ajax
I have 09 Tacoma. Their OEM pads are great for stopping power, but they leave a dark residue on the wheel cover. Any of you gentlemen have any suggs?
I typically get 4o,000 plus out of a set of OEM pads. Like I said, they stop good, and they're easy on the rotors.
Thanks in advance.
By Joe Pagone
I have been a mechanic for many years. I used to buy Napa Auto Parts almost always. I felt the parts were good quality, although more expensive than others. It does not pay to install poor quality parts on a car, they come back, and bite you! Unfortunately, a few years ago it seems Napa changed their policy on quality. This happened around the time they totally changed the on-line site. Around the same time, I started looking at Rock Auto on-line. Rock Auto offers each part by a few different manufacturers, quality levels, and prices. I started noticing that despite Napa still charging higher prices, they were now supplying the cheapest, lowest quality parts instead of the better quality they were known for. Given that, why would a person order from Napa, when Rock Auto is surprisingly lower priced, and you have a quality level choice . Napa seems to be riding on their previous well known name, while keeping the prices artificially high.
Some prime examples of this is, I purchased a starter solenoid, (eckland, Napa's electrical brand), as a preventative measure. The third start-up, after installing, the solenoid froze in the on position, with key off, and kept the starter spinning and engaged until I could unhook one battery terminal. Burned up the relay, starter, and a couple wires. I purchased a rebuilt alternator, took it from the box, and turned it, it felt rough turning, as if there was dirt in the bearing race or defective bearing components. I purchased Napa's best fuel pump, and it was very noisy from day one. I purchased a set of Napa Branded, 2 ton each, jack stands. One of them had a defective casting that would not allow the stop to lock in place. Although it seemed it locked, when weight was applied, it fell. I purchased rebuilt Ford Front calipers from Napa, and with in one year, the unplated soft steel bleeder screws has rusted solid to the caliper!
Are other people seeing this too??
Alright, my mother's car has been acting up...
She went to town day before yesterday, called and said it would start, then die... Then no start at all. got there,it wouldn't even hit with starting fluid into the air intake. A few minutes later, fired right up, ran great.
she drove as we followed her, then it died again on a feeder road, luckily there were plenty of places of business to pull into, just so happened, it died right in front of a car dealership.
any how, after it set a minute, fired back up.. Ran great. Drove it around yesterday. Ran flawless.
My mom went to pickup groceries last night, called, said it died on her.
Me and my brother grabbed a tow strap and took off... Got there, wouldn't hit a lick.
Brought it home after it had cooked off, fired up. Ran great.
This morning we're looking at it, we let it idle for a bit, it died.
Hooked up my trusty spark tester to a plug wire....no spark...
After it set for about 3 minutes, we tried to start it with the tester hooked up to the wire, and plug..It fired once then nothing....after it cooled again, fired right up.... I told my dad, next time it dies, check the spark coming from the coil to The distributor, as one plug wire from the coil to The distributor. So it died again, hooked the spark tester inline from the coil to distributor..Spark!!! Took the tester off and reinstalled the coil to distributor wire and it fired right up.... So sometimes when it dies, it fires right up, other times, it won't and has no spark.
DAYTONA BEACH, Fla. & RALEIGH, N.C.--(BUSINESS WIRE)--As NASCAR Weekly Series sanctioned events begin to return at select tracks across North America, NASCAR and Advance Auto Parts (NYSE: AAP), a leading automotive aftermarket parts provider, today announced a multiyear official partnership, designating Advance as the series entitlement sponsor. As part of the agreement, Advance also becomes the “Official Auto Parts Retailer of NASCAR.”
"It's great to have Advance join us in welcoming the return of NASCAR-sanctioned grassroots racing," said Ben Kennedy, vice president, racing development, NASCAR. "Advance’s commitment to our Weekly Series will develop some of the brightest NASCAR talent across North America. Advance has a long history in racing, and we’re thrilled to see its expanded presence from the grassroots all the way through our national series.”
Advance Auto Parts, Inc. (NYSE: AAP) has acquired the DieHard brand from Transform Holdco LLC (“Transformco”), for $200 million utilizing cash on hand.
“We are excited to acquire global ownership of an iconic American brand. DieHard will help differentiate Advance, drive increased DIY customer traffic and build a unique value proposition for our Professional customers and Independent Carquest partners. DieHard has the highest brand awareness and regard of any automotive battery brand in North America and will enable Advance to build a leadership position within the critical battery category,” said Tom Greco, president and CEO, Advance Auto Parts. “DieHard stands for durability and reliability and we will strengthen and leverage the brand in other battery categories, such as marine and recreational vehicles. We also see opportunities to extend DieHard in other automotive categories. We remain committed to providing our customers with high-quality products and excellent service. The addition of DieHard to our industry leading assortment of national brands, OE parts and owned brands will enable us to differentiate Advance and drive significant long-term shareholder value.”
AmazonBasics High Mileage Motor Oil - Synthetic Blend
AmazonBasics high-mileage synthetic-blend motor oil offers an enhanced level of protection for engines over 75,000 miles. Its synthetic blend combines conventional oil with synthetic for cost efficiency with some of the benefits of a full synthetic. An important part of routine maintenance, the motor oil works well for anything from topping off levels to complete oil changes. Whether it’s a beloved older vehicle or one with an uncertain maintenance history, help protect its engine with AmazonBasics high-mileage, synthetic-blend motor oil.
When selecting parts for a car repair, it pays to know the differences between original and aftermarket parts. Whenever possible, get estimates for both.
Choosing between original and aftermarket car parts — and even used parts of either type — is all about squaring your priorities with your budget.
You’ll have different options depending on the part and the shop. And the best choice will depend on whether you’re trying to keep repairs cheap, restore your car’s appearance after a wreck or soup up your ride.
Original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts match those that came with your car, and are of the same quality as its original parts. They’re also the most expensive.
The factory-recommended replacement intervals for filters can vary quite a bit depending on the year, make and model of the vehicle, as well as how it is driven. As a rule, older vehicles (those more than 15 to 20 years old) typically have more frequent service intervals than newer vehicles. Why? Because late-model vehicles require less maintenance, thanks to improvements in motor oils, transmission fluids, engine design and filter media.
Many long-life air and oil filters use synthetic fiber media or a blend of cellulose and synthetic fibers to extend filter life.
Changing the oil and filter every 3,000 miles was standard practice decades ago. But it’s no longer necessary because most multi-viscosity oils today are a synthetic blend or a full synthetic that resist viscosity breakdown and oxidation for a much longer period of time. Late-model fuel-injected engines also run much cleaner than their carbureted ancestors, which reduces oil contamination in the crankcase.
This car has nothing but issues, now I have water coming in when it rains and my back seat floor is a puddle. Took my spare tire out and have water in there also. Sprayed the whole car down and can see the water coming in when I spray the roof. Looks like it may be coming from the roof rack area. Took the panels off to look and the roof/body seal may be the culprit. Also found a bulletin on this. I ordered some
link hidden, please login to view so I'll try and replace the seal. Anyone run into this on an equinox or terrain?
My 2014 has an exhaust smell in the cabin which is more noticeable when idling. I read online that the exhaust manifolds crack. Well today I’m getting into this and it’s a bitch. The secondary air injection is in the way on this model to access the exhaust manifold heat shield.
Finally got the heat shield of and can see a crack...
Now trying to remove and replace it. Got the O2 sensor out and it’s in bad shape!
So I had some problems with slippage during some of the hot days. Bought this 2014 chevy equinox AWD used with about 90k on it and I guess the tranny was never serviced. Drained and refilled the fluid in the transmission, which was only about 4 quarts or so (need to flush to get it all) and it was black. Did it again in a week or so to mix in some good fluid. Car ran alright but instead of a slippage, it started to develop a hard shift. Next day, started to drive it and it would all of a sudden rev out like its in neutral. Coasted the car to the side of the road and moved the shifter, but would not engage into drive or reverse. i shut the car off and restarted and then it would go into drive (electronic control) but after a few feet it would pop back into a neutral state with the shift indicator in drive.
No codes, no lights.