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How To: Replace an ATV Battery
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By NAPA
Why Do Car Batteries Die in the Cold?
It happens every year: the days get shorter, the nights get longer and we bundle up and prepare for the long, cold months ahead. When it comes to automotive issues, winter is sometimes an especially challenging time. When the mercury drops, it can
link hidden, please login to view on the complex systems and parts under the hood of your vehicle. If you drive a car, truck or SUV with a traditional internal combustion engine, the battery in your ride is particularly vulnerable in lower temperatures. Most vehicle batteries are 12-volts, and they consist of six cells. Each cell houses two plates—one made of lead, the other of lead dioxide. The plates are submerged in sulfuric acid, which acts as a catalyst, causing a chemical reaction between the plates producing about two volts of energy per cell. With six cells, you get twelve volts of power.
Your battery may start acting up when the temperature drops, so check out these
link hidden, please login to view. The chemicals inside the battery move slower at lower temperatures, putting stress on the battery and making it difficult to provide sufficient starting power to your vehicle. If you park your vehicle outdoors, you may notice a significant decrease in battery power if the temperature dips below 32 degrees Fahrenheit, especially if your battery is older than three years and you don’t plan on starting your vehicle for several days or weeks at a time. Let’s face it: vehicle batteries are expensive, and the added stress of cold temperatures can shorten their lifespan. To prolong battery life and save cash, it’s a good idea to invest in a
link hidden, please login to view or disconnect and safely store your vehicle battery indoors. Car battery winter storage is also a great way to maintain the units of your favorite outdoor toys, such as boats, ATVs or link hidden, please login to view. Let the experts at the NAPA Network help you save money and get the most out of your vehicle battery by safely disconnecting and storing it this winter. Disconnecting a Car Battery for Storage
So, you decided to disconnect your car battery for storage this winter. Great idea! Troubleshooting battery problems in cold weather is a headache, but it can also lessen the overall life of your battery, costing you a lot of money in the long run. If you park your vehicle outdoors or in a garage with minimal insulation, it’s a good idea to remove and store the vehicle battery if you don’t plan on driving it more than once every two weeks during the winter.
First, you need to safely disconnect your vehicle’s battery. Before you begin, make sure you’re using
link hidden, please login to view and insulated link hidden, please login to view. You’ll also need a link hidden, please login to view that fits the bolts of your battery—your owner’s manual should have this information available. Turn off your vehicle. Never attempt to disconnect your battery with the engine running. With the engine off, locate the terminals of your vehicle battery. They may have black and red caps on them, black for negative and red for positive. The negative terminal is labeled with a negative symbol and the positive terminal is labeled with a positive symbol. Remove the plastic caps and locate the negative terminal. Using the wrench, loosen the nut and bolt, then remove the connector cable from the terminal. Repeat this process with the positive terminal. Now you’re ready to safely remove and store your battery!
Car Battery Storage for Winter link hidden, please login to view
The battery is a vital component of your vehicle, but it is also sometimes a volatile one. The chemicals that provide the crucial reaction that powers your vehicle and its systems are extremely caustic and dangerous. Neglecting proper car battery storage for winter can cause significant damage to your battery and anything nearby, so let NAPA Auto Parts help you plan for properly storing your battery.
Before you store it, take the time to carefully clean any
link hidden, please login to view and out of the battery tray. Ideally, you should store your battery indoors in a dry, temperature-controlled area like a closet or utility pantry. Always store your battery in a link hidden, please login to view and keep it on a low shelf above the cold cement floors or carpets to avoid static discharges. If you’re storing your battery in an area with minimal temperature control like a garage or shed, equip the space with link hidden, please login to view to ensure the battery storage box stays level and away from any moisture that might collect on the ground. Never store a vehicle battery on a high shelf above your head. Make sure to routinely check the batteries while in storage to ensure no fluids are leaking and top off any fluids that have evaporated. While some drivers want to disconnect and store their vehicle batteries, others may not have the time or a good space to store them. Fortunately, NAPA Auto Parts offers a great selection of battery maintainers, battery conditioners and trickle chargers. These low-profile devices not only charge and maintain your vehicle battery while not in use, but they also help break down any buildup of sulfur crystals on the plates.
Don’t let Old Man Winter’s plummeting temperatures send your battery to an early grave! Shop NAPA Auto Parts for car battery winter storage solutions. Now you can choose to stay out of the cold and take advantage of our
link hidden, please login to view. After you checkout online, select “Deliver From Store” and add your delivery address (must reside within 5 miles of the servicing NAPA Store). The store will notify you when your order is out for delivery, it’s that simple! Photo courtesy of
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By Counterman
I love this topic. Unfortunately, many brake rotors end up unnecessarily in the scrap pile. But I also know the reasons why, and if I’m looking to place blame, well, we only can blame ourselves. But is it bad? I’ll get into that down the page, but let me set the stage first.
Types of Rotors
Up through the mid-‘70s, the majority of all brake rotors “on the road” were hubbed rotors. What this meant is that the hub was cast into the rotor. Most cars and trucks up through that time were rear-wheel drive, and if they had disc brakes as an option, 99% of the time it was on the front only. The front wheel bearings of these cars were housed in the hub of the rotor. The rotors were very heavy and expensive to produce, and the wheel bearings were the tapered style of roller bearing that required regular cleaning, greasing, adjustment and seal replacement.
As front-wheel-drive cars grew in popularity in the mid-‘70s, so did the hubless or “hat” style of brake rotor. Hubbed rotors remained in regular use up through the mid-‘90s, but their popularity steadily declined until the hat rotor became almost the sole design choice of auto manufacturers. Hat rotors were far easier to service, with the front wheel bearings being sealed units mounted into the front steering knuckle. Hat rotors simply slid into place, and they were lighter-weight, less expensive and easier to manufacture.
It’s All About the Metal
Brake rotors get hot during braking, and they need to dissipate heat quickly. Functionally, all a brake rotor really does is absorb and dissipate heat. If a rotor gets too hot, it will cause brake fade and may easily warp, diminishing braking performance and causing severe brake vibration. The heavier the vehicle or the faster you’re going, the larger the rotors need to be, because the harder the brakes work, the more heat they produce.
So, the size of a brake rotor is proportionate to the type of braking it will be required to do. What’s a larger rotor? It’s more metal. What’s a thicker rotor? It’s more metal. And what determines how much heat can be absorbed and dissipated? The physical amount of metal. When a rotor wears, the diameter stays the same, but they get thinner, and when you resurface them, you’re removing even more material. The less metal you have, the less heat the rotor is able to absorb and dissipate.
How Brake Pads and Rotors Interact
Under normal braking, the surface of the rotor will become grooved to varying degrees based upon the pad material. This doesn’t affect the braking; because it occurs as a result of the contact between the brake pads and rotors, the surface of the two remain contoured. However, this surface is not acceptable when installing new brake pads and prevents the correct break-in of new pads, and it causes uneven pad wear and noise. “Pad slapping” is the comical term we use to describe replacing brake pads without resurfacing or replacing the rotors.
New brake pads have a break-in or “bedding” process that consists of repeated moderate braking. The purpose of the process is to bring the pads up to high temperatures in a controlled manner. When this occurs, the pad and rotor will transfer a thin layer of friction material to each other, allowing them to properly seat together. This is a very important aspect of brake service, as it ensures maximum braking and prevents brake fade, and this process only will occur correctly when new pads are mated with new or resurfaced rotors.
Turning the Rotors
We call it “turning,” because that’s the name of the machining process in which a workpiece is rotated against a fixed cutting tool. Any surface irregularities, including any grooves formed from normal service and also any rust or pitting, can be removed by turning the rotor.
In addition to surface condition, rotors often suffer from different forms of distortion. Lateral runout is the side-to-side movement of a rotor, measured with a dial indicator while rotating it by hand. Parallelism is the thickness of a rotor measured at multiple spots around the circumference for comparison. When describing this to a customer, we generally use the basic term “warped” rotor. These conditions will cause a vibration during braking, and in some cases, just driving at higher speeds.
Either one can be caused by normal wear or by incorrect mounting or installation of the rotor and wheels. Customers know what it means to have a warped rotor, and few of them care about the more technical terminology. Turning a rotor will correct these problems as well.
Turning a rotor involves a number of steps, the first of which is measuring it to determine if it still will be above the minimum thickness afterward. In most cases, the minimum thickness is cast or stamped into the rotor, but often it’s rusty and difficult to find, so we generally have to look up the specification anyhow.
Typically, when you turn a rotor, you’re going to remove a total of about .015 inches to .020 inches (15 to 20 thousandths of an inch) of material. It may be less on a really clean rotor, or more on a rusty, pitted or warped one. After measuring the thickness of the rotor and assessing the condition, you’ll know whether you have plenty of material left to turn it, or whether it’ll be too thin when you’re done.
If you determine the rotor can be turned, the next step is to remove it from the vehicle and mount it on the brake lathe. Hat rotors require a thorough cleaning and rust removal from the mounting surface to ensure they seat properly on the brake lathe. The mounting surfaces for a hubbed rotor are the wheel-bearing races, from which you can just wipe away the excess grease.
When the turning is complete and you’ve taken a final measurement to ensure the rotor is still at or above minimum thickness, the next step is to put a non-directional finish on the brake rotor, which aids in proper break-in. The most popular method is to use an angle-grinder with a cleaning disc, and it literally only takes a few seconds per side.
The final step includes washing the rotor in a mild soap-and-water solution. Though not visible, small metal particles remain on the rotor after turning, and these particles will embed themselves in the pad and prevent an effective break-in. Washing the rotor removes these particles. Hubbed rotors will require removing all the old grease, since a wheel-bearing clean and repack is a normal part of this service.
Back in the Day
There was a time when the hum of a brake lathe was almost as constant as the ticking of the clock on the shop wall. Hubbed rotors were big, heavy and expensive, and they lasted a long time, because they could be turned and reused multiple times before they were too thin to put back in service. The expectation of customers during this era was that their rotors would be “turned” during brake service. Even with the additional cost of labor, it still was far more expensive to replace them.
As the hat rotor slowly became the predominant rotor in use, many other changes were taking place in the automotive industry. Auto parts stores were opening up to meet the demands of the increasing number of cars on the road, and parts were being manufactured overseas. Price competition was high, and the more parts that were produced (hot rotors included), the less expensive they became.
At the same time, technician salaries were increasing, and suddenly, the labor cost to turn rotors was increasing. Then there was the process of turning the rotors. My intent in describing the process was to provide an indication of the amount of work involved, but any machining process requires very specific knowledge and procedure as well.
Turning a rotor is a machining process that can be done wrong as easily as it can be done right. Traditional hubbed rotors were very heavy, and as a result easier to turn because the weight inherently reduced vibration, and mounting them on the lathe was easy and straightforward.
Two things kill a rotor when turning it. One, vibration; and two, incorrect mounting. Guess what? You probably figured this: Hat rotors are lightweight, so it’s much more difficult to prevent vibration, and they’re commonly mounted incorrectly on the lathe. Most of this happens because of incorrect training, or simply a shop not having the proper lathe adapters, or both. But that subject can be reserved for a whole different article.
The trouble involved with turning hat rotors was sort of a nail in the coffin for the whole process. In today’s shops, you rarely hear the sound of a brake lathe. A good majority of the rotors that are scrapped could be turned and returned to service. But a new set of rotors is less expensive than the labor to resurface an old set (hubbed rotors being the exception). Then when you factor in the reality that they quite possibly could be machined incorrectly – causing a comeback – it simply doesn’t make sense.
Replacing them is quicker, a shop makes money on the parts, technicians make more money on labor and they can get onto the next job quicker. It’s easy to think it’s wasteful when the old rotors could in reality be turned, but on the other hand, maybe it’s good for the economy. Shops make more money and parts stores make more money too. And the old rotors don’t end up polluting a landfill; they’re one of a scrapper’s favorite metals.
They provide a source of income for scrappers and metal-salvage yards. Some shops save them and haul them in for scrap themselves. It’s good pizza money for the shop … or perhaps a cold beverage of sorts.
When and Why
Technically speaking, any brake rotor only needs replaced when it can no longer be resurfaced and remain at or above the minimum thickness specification. In the real world, as you can see, this really only holds true for hubbed rotors, which for the most part we only see on older cars and trucks. Resurfacing these rotors are the only ones we can justify, when you compare the expense of replacement.
However, even if a rotor can be turned from the standpoint of thickness, there still are two other factors that can deem it scrap instead. One is cracks that occasionally result from the continuous heat-and-cooling cycle of a rotor. If a rotor is cracked, it should be replaced. The other is hot spots, which occur when rotors aren’t broken in properly. Pad material is deposited unevenly on the rotor, and these spots cannot dissipate heat properly, causing brake vibration.
Hot spots are easily identified by an obvious discoloration on the surface of the rotor. In some cases, these can be removed by resurfacing the rotor.
Selling Your Customer
Your customer probably just wants a quick answer about replacement. Here’s an easy approach: Due to the critical importance of breaking in new pads, which relies on the surface of the rotor, any time you’re replacing pads, the rotors should be replaced as well – unless it makes economic sense to turn them. And that’s the key. With any rotor problems, unless it makes economic sense to resurface, replace them. As with any brake work, don’t forget to make sure caliper and pad slides are clean and working properly, and always torque those wheels.
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By NAPA
If you drive a vehicle with an internal combustion engine, you can think of the battery like your vehicle’s beating heart. The battery cables act like arteries running a current to the alternator, which powers electronic systems such as the ignition system, the ECM (Electronic Control Module) and the lighting system.
Bad Battery Cable Symptoms
Just like in other areas of your vehicle, the components of your battery system will wear out and fail over time. Symptoms of worn or frayed battery cables are like that of a dying battery:
Dimming or flickering of interior lights or headlights Engine hesitation when starting Clicking noises If you notice a buildup of flaky white or blue crust around the top or sides of your battery, that’s corrosion. It’s a common problem caused by small amounts of escaping hydrogen gas or leaking electrolytes on the top of your battery or the battery cable terminals. Corrosion can develop on older batteries that were overcharged, undercharged or exposed to certain environmental factors.
The NAPA Network can show you how to replace battery cables in your car, as well as
link hidden, please login to view, your link hidden, please login to view, your link hidden, please login to view and—depending on the extent of the damage—your battery tray and link hidden, please login to view. If you determine your battery has good voltage by using a link hidden, please login to view and doesn’t need replacing, then it’s time to check your link hidden, please login to view. Start at the cable terminals attached to the battery posts. Inspect both the positive and negative cables for fraying, knicks and splits. If you see anything that doesn’t look right, it’s time to replace the cables.
Replacing Battery Cables
Just like any good at-home automotive repair, you should start with all your tools ready to go, as well as safety equipment such as
link hidden, please login to view and link hidden, please login to view. Replacing battery cables is straightforward, and you’ll need the following: link hidden, please login to view A Socket Wrench link hidden, please login to view link hidden, please login to view Step 1 – Using the screwdriver or socket wrench, gently disconnect the battery terminals from the battery posts—starting with the negative cable—then disconnect the positive to avoid shorting and potential danger. Trace the path of the negative cable to the chassis, then trace the positive cable to the fuse box. Make sure to take a picture or otherwise note the course so you can route the new cables correctly.
Step 2 – Use the ratchet to loosen the negative ground nut, then remove the nut that holds the positive cable to the fuse block. Inspect these for corrosion and damage and replace them if the metal is soft or the threading is deteriorated. Inspect the terminal posts on top of the battery and use a
link hidden, please login to view to remove any corrosion. Step 3 – Install the new cables starting with the negative. Reattach the negative ground nut to the chassis and the nut that holds the positive cable to the fuse block. Make sure the nuts are tight and snug.
Step 4 – Route the cables the way you originally found them and connect the terminal ends to the clean battery posts starting with the positive cable, then the negative cable.
Step 5 – Start your vehicle and ensure the electrical systems work properly.
Removing corrosion, cleaning your battery terminals and replacing worn battery cables is a part of routine vehicle battery maintenance that most at-home mechanics can do. However, this job involves the electrical system of your vehicle, so if you don’t feel comfortable doing the replacement yourself or can’t find the time, we are here to help. Just find a friendly local
link hidden, please login to view near you, and one of our ASE-certified technicians will replace the battery cables in your vehicle for you. We can even help you with an link hidden, please login to view to help you budget for your repairs and get you back on the road in no time! Photo courtesy of
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By NAPA
It should come as no surprise that car batteries not only come in all shapes and sizes, but also in various electrical capacities. This makes sense because the wide variety of vehicle sizes and types in use make it unlikely that a single battery can serve every application. But does car battery size matter? And what if you are wondering what size battery for my car is best? Let’s take a look at why car batteries are different sizes and what car battery sizes you might find under the hood of most cars, trucks, SUVs and vans.
Why Are Car Batteries Different Sizes?
The very earliest cars used batteries of various sizes with no standards whatsoever. Battery manufacturers simply made batteries the way they wanted and car makers picked whatever fit. But then the Battery Council International (BCI) was formed and battery sizes started to fall in line with the standards set forth by the BCI. This helped simplify and standardize automotive engineering designs with common battery tray sizes as well as power output measurements.
Common Car Battery Sizes
Over the years car manufacturers figured out it was easier to just stick to a few common battery sizes to use across their production lines. The car battery size chart below lists out the dimensions of the most common car battery sizes:
GROUP NO. NAPA PART NO.
LENGTH (inches) WIDTH (inches) HEIGHT (inches) 24 8424 10-3/4 6-3/4 9 24F 8424F 10-3/4 6-3/4 9 25 8425 9-3/4 6-7/8 8-7/8 27 8427 12 6-3/4 9 34 8434 10-3/4 6-7/8 8 34R 8434R 10-3/4 6-7/8 8 35 8435 9-9/16 6-7/8 8-7/8 41 (T65) 8441 11-9/16 6-7/8 6-7/8 42/58R 8442 10 7-1/4 6-7/8 47 (H5/L2) 8447 9-9/16 6-7/8 7-1/2 48 (H6/L3) 8448 11 6-7/8 7-1/2 49 (H8/L5) 8449 13-15/16 6-7/8 7-1/2 55 8456 8-3/4 6 8-1/2 58 8458 10 7-1/4 6-7/8 65 8465 12 7-3/8 7-5/8 75 8475 9-3/4 7 7-1/4 78 8478 10-3/4 6-7/8 7-1/4 86 8486 9 6-7/8 8-1/8 96R 8496R 9-9/16 6-7/8 6-7/8 99R (T4) 8499R 8-1/4 6-7/8 6-7/8 75/86 (DT) 8425/75 9-3/4 7 8-1/8 34/78 (DT) 8434/78 10-3/4 6-7/8 8 That may look like a long list of car battery sizes, but there are actually many more in use around the world. A more inclusive battery size chart for cars, trucks, SUVs and other vehicles can be found in the
link hidden, please login to view. Size Isn’t The Only Factor link hidden, please login to view
Looking at the above car battery sizes chart you may notice that some batteries are physically the same size, but that doesn’t mean they are interchangeable. The location of the positive and negative battery terminals, the battery case mounting provisions, and the type of battery terminal connections are all important factors.
There are also differences in battery capacity. The cranking amp (CA) capacity and cold cranking amp (CCA) capacity are both important factors in matching a battery with a vehicle’s needs. The CA and CCA both refer to the amount of amps available to start the vehicle at a certain temperature. Then there is the reserve capacity (RC) of the battery which is how long a battery can deliver 25 amps of power until it is drained down to 10.5 volts.
What Is The Right Battery Size For My Car?
If you are trying to find the right battery size for your car then the answer is the size that your vehicle’s manufacturer designed it to use. Trying to shoehorn in a bigger battery may sound like a good idea, but if the battery mount can’t hold it securely then you may end up with a big headache. Likewise picking a smaller battery than specified could lead to electrical issues if it can’t handle the electrical load. It may also rattle around in the battery tray leading to a shorter battery life or even a dangerous short circuit. And even if the car battery group size chart says a battery physically fits, it may be the wrong capacity or voltage. Trust the engineers that designed the vehicle and only replace the battery with an exact size unit. You can change your car battery yourself if you have the
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By Counterman
AMSOIL is launching two new synthetic lubricants for ATV/UTV applications, “providing riders with high-performance upgrades from OEM-branded oils,” the company announced.
AMSOIL synthetic ATV/UTV motor oil now is available in 10W-30 and 5W-40 viscosities, joining existing 10W-40 and 5W-50 viscosities to round out the product line.
AMSOIL synthetic ATV/UTV motor oil is designed to withstand the severe operating conditions found in modern ATV/UTV applications. It provides outstanding protection while racing, hauling, plowing or navigating tough terrain,” according to the company.
“Thanks to its robust all-season synthetic formula, AMSOIL ATV/UTV oil remains fluid in sub-zero temperatures for exceptional protection during cold starts, and resists thinning and mechanical shear in extreme heat to protect ATV/UTV engines in hard-working or desert conditions,” AMSOIL added.
AMSOIL synthetic ATV/UTV motor oil helps fight rust and corrosion to prolong equipment life. The wet-clutch-compatible oil is formulated without friction modifiers to promote smooth shifting and positive clutch engagement, allowing riders to confidently and safely push their machines to the limit.
“We designed the ATV/UTV family of lubricants from the ground up to address the unique demands of these off-road machines,” said Len Groom, AMSOIL senior market manager – powersports. “Whether they’re used for work or play, ATVs and UTVs are frequently pushed to the limit, generating high heat that can challenge lubricants’ ability to maintain adequate protection. AMSOIL Synthetic ATV/UTV Motor Oil is designed to protect against the damaging effects of extreme heat, and we’re excited to expand the line to offer upgraded AMSOIL protection to more ATV/UTV makes and models.”
AMSOIL 10W-30 synthetic ATV/UTV motor oil is recommended for use in applications that require a 10W-30 oil, including those made by Honda. AMSOIL 5W-40 synthetic ATV/UTV motor oil is recommended for use in applications that require a 5W-40 oil, including those made by Can-Am and Kawasaki. AMSOIL synthetic ATV/UTV motor oil is Warranty Secure and will not void ATV or UTV warranties.
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