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Timing Belts vs. Timing Chains
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By NAPA
Tread Carefully! It’s a Slippery Slope
If you live in an icy climate, you know the danger that comes with venturing onto roads layered with snow and sleet. Any slippery surface like that requires superior traction to maintain a sense of control. Without proper handling of your vehicle, you’re raising the risk of an accident, getting stranded and ruining the underbelly of your vehicle. That’s why it’s always important to have a
link hidden, please login to view. No matter if you feel confident trekking snowy terrain, loss of tire traction can result from a lot of things, including worn tires, hurried acceleration and climbing steep hills that cause wheels to spin. Even in climates where it isn’t the norm, having the right gear to handle those one-off snow days is critical! That’s when tire snow chains come in handy. Rather than investing in costly
link hidden, please login to view for your vehicle, link hidden, please login to view are a budget-friendly solution that improves the grip your tires have on ice and snow. These are chain systems help dig into packed snow and icy surfaces with spiked grip, improving the traction of your vehicle so you aren’t prone to skidding. Not a One-Size-Fits-All Solution link hidden, please login to view
Before you get started, you’ll want to know the right kind and amount of snow tire chains needed for your specific vehicle. It’s also important to check the legal restrictions of tire chain use as some states don’t allow them. Clearance heights and material restrictions also apply to certain vehicles. If you need a refresher on your specific needs, check your owner’s manual for details.
Once you’ve read up on OEM requirements and sizing, the next step is to look for chains that fit your application. For example, if you’re dealing with more icy conditions than snow, you want to look for chains that feature spiked ends, studs or “icebreakers” that can properly grip the slick surface. There are also
link hidden, please login to view designed with large, square links that are a bit more rounded, giving you a smoother ride over packed snow. You should also know chains aren’t the only option out there, but they work well for moderately snowy climates. There are also
link hidden, please login to view, which are long pieces of metal cables wrapped in plastic that are ideal for occasional use. They’re typically cheaper, easier to install and allow for higher speeds, but they’re not as durable as chains. We outline the differences in link hidden, please login to view so can narrow down the options for a better lifestyle fit. Survive Snowpocalypse with NAPA
For most snow drivers, chains are the happy medium. However, installing chains and pulling them apart is a process you’ll have to familiarize yourself with before you can use them without damaging your vehicle or road. You’ll need to drive slower than usual and always make sure to pull over and remove the chains when not directly driving over packed snow or ice. Using snow chains over bare pavement or gravel can result in serious damage to your tires and the road itself. For a more in-depth look into how you should incorporate tire chains into your gear collection, check out
link hidden, please login to view Depending on your vehicle’s build and the amount of snow you’re dealing with on a regular basis, your best tool for combatting snow chaos might look different than that of your neighbor. What’s most important is that you stay prepared for the days when you can’t stay indoors and hide from the blistering cold weather. Using traction-enhancing devices to stabilize your vehicle is the key to calm, collected snow driving. Let the friendly NAPA folks help you choose the best tire chains for snow or ice by shopping our selection of
link hidden, please login to view. If you still aren’t sure of the right fit, stop by your link hidden, please login to view to get expert guidance on vehicle-specific parts, tools and more. Photo courtesy of
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By NAPA
Losing traction in the snow is no one’s idea of a good time. Even in areas not known for abysmal snowstorms, winter can create icy and hazardous road conditions that drivers must be prepared to deal with. Luckily the solution of adding snow chains for tires used on vehicles that need to brave the wintery roads. Adding
link hidden, please login to view for cars can be a workable solution to get you where you need to go when the roads are not your friend — but they can also be a pain. Knowing when you should be putting chains on tires can help you get out of a slippery situation, but you have to know what you’re doing first. Here’s how to tell if it is time to use snow tire chains on your vehicle. Technically Speaking
While tire chains are legal in all 50 states different
link hidden, please login to view regulate chain usage in different states. Even Hawaii has a law on the books for tire chains (only if you are driving on on Mauna Kea though). Before you invest in a shiny new pair, make sure you know whether chains are allowed, permitted or even required in some cases. Generally, a chain “requirement” means you must have them in your vehicle if you want to pass certain checkpoints that pop up in inclement weather. Some go as far as requiring tire chains to be installed when road conditions reach a certain point with fines and penalties for non-compliance. Places where chains are permitted usually come with some disclaimer that restrict their usage, so make sure you know the law and follow it. There may even be different tire chains laws for passenger vehicles versus commercial trucks. Most tire chain laws are meant to help protect the roadway surface from damage caused by using chains without enough snow coverage. Leaving snow chains on tires when the conditions don’t warrant it can also damage your tires. The other important factor to consider is whether your vehicle is suitable for chains. You can find chains for most tire sizes, but there must be enough clearance for them to fit on without causing damage to the body, undercarriage or brakes. Make sure to check clearance around the front tires with the steering wheel turned fully to each side to make sure nothing rubs. If clearance is tight you may want to consider
link hidden, please login to view, which sometimes have a lower profile. Consult your owner’s manual for tire chain specifications and allowances. Be Prepared link hidden, please login to view
Because chains are something you will likely need to take on and off at least once per trip, and because the conditions surrounding their use are usually cold, soggy and snowy, it’s best to practice installation first, ideally when the weather is still nice. Without driving the car anywhere,
link hidden, please login to view and take them off a couple of times to get the hang of it so that when you do eventually need them, you aren’t stuck fumbling and trying to figure out how to get them on with freezing fingers. Also, if you’re carrying car tire chains, pack a safety vest as well. There’s a good chance you’ll have to pull onto the side of the road at some point to adjust or remove them, and if it’s snowing, visibility will be low. Using Chains For Tires Under The Right Conditions
Tire chains for cars should only be used if there is a layer of snow or ice on the road. Using chains on bare pavement can cause substantial damage to both your tires and the road itself. If you turn onto a road that’s clearly been plowed and salted, pull over and remove the chains.
It always pays to be
link hidden, please login to view, but chains require a whole new level of attention and care. Snow chains for car, truck and SUV applications all work the same way to increase grip but there are limitations. When on, the car should not be driven above 30 miles per hour and you have to be mindful of curbs when parking. On two-wheel drive vehicles, chains must be attached to wheels on the drive axle, but ideally you get them on all four. If installed only in the front there will be a tendency to oversteer and a tendency to understeer if they’re only in the back. Four-wheel drive vehicles should have chains installed on all tires. Once the tire chains are installed drive a block or two and tighten them again. Some vehicles with selectable driving modes may need to be in the appropriate mode when using snow chains, so check your owner’s manual just in case. Once you get to an area of clear roadway, take off the chains. The aggressive traction that make tire chains so effective can also cause increased tire wear, so only keep them on when you need them. Though they can be cumbersome, snow chains make a real difference in winter weather when you need to get somewhere without mother nature’s permission, but only if they’re being used safely and effectively. Otherwise, you’ll just be spinning your wheels. Once you are done using your snow chains inspect them for any breaks, corrosion, or physical damage before putting them away. Give them a good spray with WD-40 so they will be ready for next season.
Check out all the
link hidden, please login to view available on link hidden, please login to view or trust one of our 17,000 link hidden, please login to view for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on tire chains for cars, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your link hidden, please login to view. Photo courtesy of
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By Counterman
As luck would have it, I have the perfect serpentine-belt story to demonstrate: 1) the strange side of automotive repair; 2) the crazy things you have to deal with as a counter professional; and 3) that professional technicians can make mistakes, even when we don’t realize it.
A few years back, a friend of mine had driven to Georgia for a month-long visit with family. While they were down there, one of the front brakes locked up. They took the car to a local shop, which quoted them a lot more money than they could afford to fix the car. Since they were a close friend, and since I always looked for an excuse for a road trip, I agreed to help.
I was confident in their description of the problem, and even though I had never worked on the vehicle – a 1991 Lincoln Town Car – I was sure the problem was either a caliper or a hose. I bought all the brake parts I could possibly need, rented the cheapest econo-box car I could find for one way, filled the trunk with parts and tools and set the cruise control for Georgia.
As soon as I arrived, I transferred my cargo to the Town Car, turned in the rental and went to work. All I needed to do was fix it just enough so the car would make it back to Ohio and the comfort of my shop. I slapped on the caliper, bled it out and it was ready to go. However, before hitting the road, I did a quick check-over of the rest of the car.
My only serious concern was the serpentine belt. It was severely cracked and worn – probably one of the worst I had seen. I envisioned it falling apart somewhere in the mountains, so I thought it was best to replace it. On the way to the freeway, I stopped at one of the large auto parts stores and bought a belt. Since I hadn’t planned on this, I also had to buy a serpentine-belt tool.
The belt took me longer than normal to replace because the accessories on the bottom of the engine were difficult to get to, but I could see them well enough to know the belt was on correctly, and all the pulleys and tensioners seemed OK. I started it up, the belt ran true, so I was good to go. The freeway was still a couple miles and a half-dozen traffic lights away. Sitting at the very last light before 600-plus miles of open road, the car suddenly started making a terrible noise under the hood.
The rhythmic nature of the noise told me something was wrong with what I had just done. I dodged the entrance ramp for the side of the road. The new serpentine belt had completely shredded and fallen apart. I removed the remains of it, and luckily still had the old one in the trunk. I double-checked all the pulleys and tensioners and could see no problem, so I reinstalled the old belt.
Clearly, it couldn’t have been my mistake, so I blamed the belt for being defective. But, I still wanted a new one for the trip, so I returned to the auto parts store. I explained the problem, but they didn’t have another one. They refunded my money with no questions asked – which was, from a standpoint of customer service, the correct thing to do, and from my standpoint, also correct since a defective part wasn’t my problem.
With no option for a new belt, I had no choice but to cross my fingers and make the trip. I made it back without a single problem. The next week I took the car into the shop to properly finish up the brake work and install another new belt. This time the car was on the lift, so I draped the belt in place from the top, and as I always do, raised the car up so I could loop the belt around the accessories on the bottom.
Then I saw the problem. It turned out the correct belt for the car was a seven-rib belt. Someone in the past had installed an earlier-model A/C compressor that had a six-rib pulley, and they had installed a six-rib belt so it would work. Oops. In my apparent haste, I didn’t notice that when changing the belt. Of course, a six-rib belt works fine on seven-rib pulleys. But when the seven-rib belt was forced to work on the six-rib pulley, it shredded like cheese going on a pizza.
The counter professional where I bought the belt didn’t question whether or not it was defective. He just refunded my money. But he could have questioned it and maybe he should have, and not necessarily with the intent to say I had made a mistake, but in the interest of figuring out what had happened. Admittedly, I was surprised by the “defective” belt, but my confidence got in the way of common sense. Had I been questioned, I may have thought a little harder and began to wonder if indeed I had missed something. Well, we all make mistakes.
Selling Serpentine Belts
So, what goes into selling serpentine belts? The application is normally the easy part unless you have a crazy story like mine, but you may often be asked how to tell if the belt is worn out. Small cracks in the top surface of the teeth are normal and common, even with low miles on a belt. When the cracks extend all the way down to base of the teeth, that’s a belt that should be replaced.
The more prevalent indicator, however, is the cross-section of the teeth. When they’re new, the belt teeth aren’t pointy. They are squared-off at the top, and the cross-section of the belt will mate perfectly in the pulley grooves, providing maximum contact area. When the belt wears, the teeth become pointy and the cross-section of the belt changes drastically, reducing the contact area.
These visual inspections almost always allow you to make an easy decision about the belt. However, if condition ever is in question, and the vehicle owner isn’t sure of age or mileage, then it’s time to replace it. But the belt isn’t the only factor. Idler pulleys and tensioner pulleys are ideal upsell recommendations. Any loss of proper tension and any misalignment – both of which can be caused by worn idler or tensioner pulleys – will cause premature belt wear and/or noise.
Noise is the big one, and usually the first thing that makes people think about replacing the belt. Serpentine belts normally run very quiet, which is one of the reasons we like them so much. Any squeaking or chirping usually gets blamed on the belt, and usually it’s the reason they’re replaced. Make no mistake: A worn belt certainly can make noise, but usually it’s in combination with other factors.
It’s not uncommon to install a new serpentine belt to remedy a squeaking noise, only to find the noise is still there. In most of these cases, the belt truly needed replaced, but think of the perception by the customer. If they’re not aware of the other factors involved, they’re going to blame it on the quality of the belt. It happens often. Go figure! Who would ever claim a new serpentine belt was defective?
As I previously mentioned, incorrect alignment or incorrect tension can and will cause noise. In addition to pulley and tensioner condition, when the belt is installed, it makes a great straight edge. If it’s not perfect, then something is misaligned.
The most common culprit for noise, however, is dirt, debris and particles lodged in the accessory pulleys. If you don’t see it at first, look closer. It often collects in the base of the pulley grooves. As innocent as it may look, it will cause you to pull your hair out chasing a noise.
There are plenty of ideas floating around about how to clean them, but the bottom line is that it simply doesn’t matter. Clean is clean. Here’s the catch. Often, the debris is embedded in the grooves to the point where you have to dig or scrape it out with a pick, then follow it up with a wire brush. It’s not always fun, but it’s the only way to ensure no noise from the belt. You can use any solvent or degreaser you want, but that’s just the finishing touch. The physical debris must be removed, all the way around each and every pulley.
When it comes to upsells, belt tools are nice to have in stock. These are generally just for releasing the tension on the belt, but there’s another tool that’s a long metal rod with two metal “fingers” on the end. They are designed to grab and maneuver the belt, so you can install it in cars with very limited space to work. These can be a real lifesaver.
If the car has more than one belt, it’s a good idea to recommend all of them at the same time. If one is worn out, the other most likely will be too. It’s almost always a dirty job too, and one that causes a lot of skinned knuckles because you’re working in such a tight space. Shop towels and mechanics gloves are a great recommendation. If they don’t want gloves, point them to the nearest drug store to pick up Band-Aids on the way home. They’ll probably need them!
Last but not least are stretch belts. All the same rules for wear and inspection still apply, but there’s no tensioner. They have an elastic core that allows them to keep tension on the pulleys. They work great. Period. But installation is different. You absolutely must use the correct tool. It’s not that the tools are earth-shattering wonders; they simply provide a smooth ramp to guide the belts in place. If you do it any other way, you risk damaging, and most likely will damage, the belt.
Oh yeah, and for the record, I didn’t put another six-rib belt on the Town Car. I installed the correct A/C compressor pulley and put a seven-rib belt on the car. The way it should have been.
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By Counterman
The VVT category continues to grow in the automotive aftermarket. These systems are becoming more and more common as manufacturers try to meet tightened fuel-economy standards. When it comes to meeting those standards, variable-valve timing (VVT) is just one piece of the puzzle. As these vehicles exit the factory warranty period, there’s a huge opportunity for counter pros to serve customers’ repair needs.
Variable-valve timing is the process of altering the timing and/or duration of a valve lift event, to improve performance, fuel economy and emissions.
On a conventional engine, the opening and closing of the valves is based on their fixed position relative to the timing chain or belt, which is driven by the crankshaft. Without VVT, the valve timing remains the same for all conditions. This means that certain compromises must be made by manufacturers; this is achieved by selecting a specific cam profile. The cam profile affects the valve lift and duration.
However, an engine equipped with VVT can make additional adjustments, so it isn’t constrained by the cam profile. VVT systems allow for improved performance over a broader operating range. The ability to alter valve timing at any engine speed gives manufacturers the ability to tune for optimal performance and efficiency. The camshaft’s timing can be advanced to produce better low-end torque, or it can be retarded to have better high-end torque as directed by the ECU.
System Overview
It’s important to point out that VVT is not just a single part or component – it’s an entire system. There are a number of components that all need to work hand-in-hand in order for the system to function. Let’s talk about some of the components that make up the entire system.
The part that actually controls the position of the camshaft is the phaser. Cam phasers may feature a piston-type construction, or a vane-type construction. Regardless of construction, they use engine-oil pressure to push against a strong internal spring. A VVT solenoid is used to adjust the engine-oil pressure into the phaser.
While early VVT systems were active only in higher rpm ranges or under specific conditions, modern systems are actively adjusting the intake and exhaust camshaft positions for the best possible efficiency at all times.
VVT systems have caused one emissions system to become all but extinct: exhaust-gas recirculation (EGR). Since VVT is able to control the way gasses enter and exit the combustion chamber, there’s no need for EGR systems.
EGR systems were designed to reduce nitrous oxides (NOx) by recirculating exhaust gasses back into the intake manifold. This causes the combustion temperature to drop below 2,500 F, preventing the formation of these harmful gasses. EGR systems did work, but lacked the reaction time and precision offered by VVT systems.
Failure Points
In many ways, engine oil is the lifeblood of the VVT system. Inadequate oil pressure or contaminated oil will hamper system performance. It’s very important that customers are following the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule, and using only the specified type, grade and viscosity of engine oil in their vehicle.
Clean engine oil is critical to VVT-system operation. The oil passages of a VVT system are like a dead end, and the oil doesn’t flush out the passages all the time. If a piece of debris finds its way into a phaser or oil-control valve, it could be there for a while. Most manufacturers use a metal-screen filter to prevent debris from reaching the variable-valve timing system. Some manufacturers make the screen serviceable but, on some vehicles, it could be inside the oil-control solenoid and almost impossible to inspect or even clean.
The relationship between the camshaft and crankshaft is critical in today’s VVT systems. The ECU relies on information from the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor to determine ignition and valve timing. If either of these sensors produces a faulty signal, the VVT-system performance will suffer. A loose or stretched timing chain or timing belt, or a worn timing guide or tensioner, all could negatively affect the VVT system.
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By Counterman
For the first time, Adventry Corp. planned to display its Goodyear Belt heavy-duty line of products at Heavy Duty Aftermarket Week (HDAW) in Grapevine, Texas, this week.
Goodyear Belts is a licensee collaboration between Adventry and The Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company.
“Our team has worked hard to develop a full range of V-belts, serpentine belts, tensioners and pulleys for heavy-duty applications,” said Tara Cevallos, CEO of Adventry. “Heavy-duty aftermarket professionals expect great products and that’s what we deliver, along with our outstanding service.”
“We currently have more than 1,800 SKU’s, covering more than 98% of the market,“ said Chad Davis, senior product manager at Adventry. “In addition to our complete line of the highest-quality belts, the new Goodyear tensioner, pulley and FEAD Kit program is ideally suited for the needs of distributors, fleet managers and professional installers. Our customers have found our online catalog is second to none.”
Goodyear Belts’ new line of heavy-duty power-transmission products meets or exceeds OEM specifications. Belt materials have been developed and tested to provide dependable and durable service. Goodyear tensioners, pulleys and FEAD kits are designed to restore an engine’s serpentine belt drive to original specifications. For more information, visit booth 1834 at HDAW,
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