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Buying a turbocharger for your car can sometimes be a daunting and confusing task. At maxpeedingrods.com, it is our mission to make that task as an easy and painless as possible. This Buyer's Guide is designed to answer any questions you may have during your search for the right turbocharger for your car, and how to buy a turbocharger on our website.
WHAT IS A TURBOCHARGER?
A turbocharger（turbo）is a turbine-driven forced induction device that increases an internal combustion engine’s efficiency and power output by forcing extra air into the combustion chamber. When a turbocharger brings more air into the chamber, it gets mixed with more fuel, yielding more power as a result. It smuggles air by compressing it using the energy of the exhaust gasses coming out of the engine.
HOW DOES A TURBOCHARGER WORK?
How does a turbo work in a car engine? It applies almost the same principle of a jet engine. It has two main parts – a turbine and a compressor. When one part spins, the other spins with it too because they are linked to each other. Exhaust gasses blast out of the engine when the fuel burns inside the combustion chamber. The gasses go down into a tube and wind the turbine, which rotates at significantly high speeds and causes the compressor (which is actually a turbine in reverse) to spin. This chain of action siphons more air into the engine cylinder, allowing burning more fuel and producing more power each second.
HOW TO BUY A TURBOCHARGER?
Correctly identifying the turbo means you'll get the right replacement first time, saving you time, money and hassle. In order to supply the correct turbo for your vehicle, we will always ask you to supply the part number from the Turbocharger either directly from the Turbocharger itself or by contacting your vehicle dealer to get the OEM part number from them. Most part numbers can be found on the name- plate of compressor housing, as shown below.
• Finding the right part number with GARRETT turbochargers.
• Finding the right part number with IHI turbochargers.
• Finding the right part number with KKK turbochargers.
• Finding the right part number with Mitsubishi turbochargers.
• Finding the right part number with HOLSET turbochargers.
• Finding the right part number with SCHWITZER turbochargers.
You can contact one of our turbo specialists at https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/ for further assistance on how to buy a turbocharger.
WHY BUY TURBOCHARGERS AT MAXPEEDINGRODS?
MaXpeedingRods has been engaged in the research of overseas racing products and culture for decades. If you are looking for turbochargers, you have landed at the right place. On the basis of your vehicle make and model, you can choose from a plethora of automotive maintenance and accessories. MaXpeedingRods offers a seamless online shopping experience and the streamlined e-commerce interface makes it easy for you to find just the turbocharger you want.
MaXpeedingRods offers a variety of turbochargers in both Sport performance and Street performance.
Turbocharger—Sport performance • Stainless steel volute with high temperature resistance 1050 degree Celsius
• Aluminum blades with CNC precision machining forging
• Imported movement bearing and precise dynamic balance support maximum pressure 3.0bar Water-cooled structure greatly extends turbine life
• The corresponding horsepower range is 300—850
Turbocharger---Street performance • High nickel alloy shell with high temperature resistance 850 degree Celsius
• Imported floating bearing structure and precise dynamic balance
• Aluminum blades with precision machining forging
• The corresponding horsepower range is 200-600
For professional assistance, you can reach out to us via our websitehttps://www.maxpeedingrods.com/
WHAT ARE THE SIGNS THAT MY CAR NEEDS NEW TURBOCHARGER?
Turbos are supposed to be long-lasting, however, it is still possible that some damage may happen over time. If you’re wondering whether your vehicle needs to have the turbocharger replaced, look for the following 5 signs:
1. Slow Acceleration The primary function of a turbo is to make your car more powerful. One of the first noticeable symptoms is a lack of power and slow acceleration. If you notice that it doesn’t accelerate as fast as it used to, the first thing you should consider checking is the turbo.
2. Burning Oil Burning excessive amounts of oil is typically a sign of a turbo failure. Locate the downpipe, at the front of the turbo, and disconnect it. You can look inside the turbine by using an endoscope; if there is oil inside, that’s a sign of gradual failure. You should resolve the problem as soon as possible; if left untreated, your turbo will eventually fail.
3. Excessive Exhaust Smoke If the turbo housing cracks and or if there are worn internal seals, this may lead to oil leaking into your exhaust. As the oil burns off you will see a distinct grey or blue smoke. This symptom is more apparent when the turbo is in use. So if you notice smoke when you rev your engine, it could be a sign of a faulty turbo.
4. Check Engine Light or CEL On most modern cars, the computer diagnostics will detect a failing turbo resulting in the “check your engine.” With that said, the CEL is displayed for a number of problems, sometimes it warns us of a loose gas cap and sometimes about far more serious issues. One of those more serious issues could be the turbo. It’s best to have a mechanic look at your vehicle if the CEL is displayed.
5. Loud Whining Noise When the boost is running, a failing turbo could make a loud whining noise. The noise usually sounds like a siren, and it tends to get louder as the problem aggravates. If you notice an unusual noise paired with some of the above symptoms, your turbo might be failing. When a turbo becomes faulty, there are plenty of warning signs. They are often audible or they offer visual queues. Ensure at each servicing that you have your oil changed to avoid carbon deposits. If your turbo is older, consider having it replaced. If you aren’t experienced with vehicle components, have a licensed mechanic diagnose the problem.
HOW TO INSTALL A TURBOCHARGER IN A CAR?
Have you ever wanted to know how to install a turbocharger, but the task seems too daunting? Don’t wait to upgrade your turbo! Let expert mechanics at MaXpeedingRods help with this step by step guide.
Step 1: Unplug the green hose from the compressor intake duct. Remove the intake duct and crankcase breather.
Step 2: Remove the boost control module from the front of the x-section pipe.
Step 3: Remove the temperature sensor wires from the front of the x-section pipe.
Step 4: Unplug any remaining hoses and electrical connections from the x-section pipe.
Step 5: Loosen hose clamps and remove the x-section pipe from the engine. Cover intake manifold openings to prevent foreign objects from entering the pipework during this installation.
Step 6: Using a 7/16” deep-well socket, loosen turbine outlet v-band clamp and move clamp off of the flange. Separate down-pipe from turbo.
Step 7: Using a 7/16” deep-well socket, loosen turbine inlet v-band clamp & move the clamp off the flange. This is the most difficult step of the installation. Use penetrating oil to help loosen the clamp.
Step 8: Reach under turbo and slide the clip on the EBPD control rod towards the pedestal to free the EBPD crank.
Step 9: Remove the 2 bolts holding the turbo to the pedestal and unplug the red pressure line from the actuator.
Step 10: Make note of the turbo’s position and how it fits on the engine for future reference. Lift the turbo off the pedestal and remove from the vehicle.
Step 11: Remove the backpressure valve assy from the old turbo and install on the new turbo. Use anti-seize compound on the threads & torque the bolts to 185 - 215 lb-in.
Step 12: Ensure the supplied oil inlet and outlet o-rings are properly seated on the pedestal. The turbo oil drain hole will pilot on the raised sleeve. NOTE: Before installing turbocharger, inspect and remove all foreign material from turbo air inlet, exhaust inlet, & exhaust manifold.
Step 13: Install new turbo.
NOTE: Turbine inlet flange should line up with the mating exhaust flange. The pin in the Yflange should mate with the hole in the turbine housing flange.
Step 14: Ensure the crank pin for the EBPD drops into the hole in the control arm rodend. Slide retaining clip back into place ensuing the clip fits into the crank pin groove.
Step 15: Install and tighten 2 turbo “hold down” torque to 35-37 lb-ft.
Step 16: Position and install turbine inlet v-band clamp and torque to 110-130 lb-in.
Step 17: Install downpipe. Guide the v-band flange to mate with the turbine discharge flange. Install v-band clamp & torque to 110-130 lb-in.
Step 18: Remove covers (rags in this picture) from the intake manifold openings. Re-use the original compressor discharge o-ring and mount it into the new compressor discharge groove. A light coating of RTV or grease can be used to hold it in place.
Step 19: Position the x-section pipe in place and re-install hoses. Tighten compressor discharge v-band clamp to 110-130 lb in. Tighten hose clamps to 50-60 lb-in, and re-install all electrical and temperature connections.
Step 20: Re-install the red wastegate hose onto the wastegate hose actuator.
Step 21: Double check that the compressor inlet area is free from any foreign objects and that the inlet hose is clean. Install the new compressor 4-inch inlet hose in place and insert the green hose into the boss. Tighten clamps snugly.
Step 22: Re-install the crankcase breather assy, again verifying that everything is clean.
Step 23: Re-install the hose from the breather duct to the air filter housing, snug the clamps. Reconnect battery, and you’re done!
Step 24: Now retrace your steps to verify that everything has been re-installed, re-tightened or re-connected and that there are no loose wires, hoses, or fasteners. Make sure that you have retrieved all rags, tools, etc. from the work area. DO NOT OPERATE the engine without the inlet ducting in place.
Step 25: Start engine and watch for signs of oil leakage at the turbo/pedestal joint. If none exists, drive the vehicle a short distance to fully warm the engine and then re-inspect. Investigate any unusual noise or condition.
Step 26: If all checks out, then there is no further break-in necessary and the vehicle can be driven as usual.
By Yu Billy
Applicable models of Borsehung 038109101R
FAB 02-04;05-08;07-10/OCT 01-11;04-08;09-13/RO 06-10/SUP 02-08;08-13
BE 99-10/BEC 03-10/BO 02-05/CA 04-11/CAMP 04-10/GOLF 98-09/GOPL 05-09/IMD 08-/JE 06-10/PA 97-11/PASY 97-99/PO 05-10/SHA 96-10/TOU 03-10/TR 03-10
A3 01-13/A4 99-01/A4Q 99-05/A6 98-05/A6Q 02-05
AL 01-02;03-05;06-08;09-10/ALT 04-06;07-10;11-13/CO 03-05;06-09/IB 02-05;06-10/LE 00-01;02-06;06-10;11-13/TO 99-01;02-04;05-09
Borsehung 038109101R, a pure OE product with superb quality and a very competitive price, is now in ample supply. Welcome to place an order!
Purchase link: https://www.borsehung.de/en/service-form/
Email: [email protected]
By Yu Billy
Function of 8V0698151/5QD698151
8V0698151/5QD698151 is the most crucial safety part in the braking system. The result of all braking operations is determined by the braking pad.
Common faults of 8V0698151/5QD698151
1. Abnormal sound is often heard during braking.
2. During high-load braking, the braking pad is prone to deformation due to severe wear under high temperature. In serious cases, a braking operation may fail.
Reference NO: 8V0698151/5QD698151
Name: Brake Pad Set, disc brake
Applicable models of vika 8V0698151/5QD698151
AUDI: A3 13-15
Advantages of vika 8V0698151/5QD698151
1. Thermo-stable: The refractory ceramic material is able to tolerate a temperature up to 650℃ during continuous braking operations. At high temperatures, this pad provides excellent braking without any deformation or melting. With a high braking torque, it helps shorten the braking distance.
2. Dust-free: The advanced ceramic material reduces accumulation of dust effectively, and avoids development of rust or corrosion.
3. Low noise: The beveled-edge design helps eliminate abnormal sound, and matches the braking disc perfectly, causing no harm to the latter.
When should 8V0698151/5QD698151 be replaced?
1. Visual inspection: A new braking pad typically measures about 15mm in thickness. If you discover through visual inspection that the pad is merely 5mm thick, it’s time to change it.
2. Sound: If during a gentle braking process a hissing sound like that generated by iron pieces rubbing against each other is heard, the braking pad should be replaced without delay;
3. Force required for braking: When the brake is pressed, if it feels less resistant than usual or shows dangerous insensitivity, the pad should be replaced.
With a unique technical design, vika 8V0698151/5QD698151 reduces braking noise effectively, and provides a long service life due to excellent durability. Welcome to contact us for purchase.
Purchase link: http://www.tantivy.com/?page_id=2194&lang=en
Email: [email protected]
By Sanly Wen
Guangzhou Tomoi Auto Parts Co., Ltd. is located in Auto City, Guangzhou, China. We are a professional manufacturer of auto steering and suspension parts. We focus on producing tie rod end, rack end, stabilizer link and ball joints, and offering reasonable price and on-time delivery. With more than 30,000 square meter factory area, we currently have developed more than 1500 molds for Japanese, Korean and American vehicles. Our main features are listed as below.
1) Under IATF 16949 standard
2) Japanese 5S standardized workshop management
3) strict manufacture and inspection processes
4) apply special patent technology
5) over 16 years R&D experience
6) On time delivery and large output capacity
7) OEM service offered,customer label accepted
For more details and brochure, pls feel free to contact [email protected]
By Joe Pagone
I have been a mechanic for many years. I used to buy Napa Auto Parts almost always. I felt the parts were good quality, although more expensive than others. It does not pay to install poor quality parts on a car, they come back, and bite you! Unfortunately, a few years ago it seems Napa changed their policy on quality. This happened around the time they totally changed the on-line site. Around the same time, I started looking at Rock Auto on-line. Rock Auto offers each part by a few different manufacturers, quality levels, and prices. I started noticing that despite Napa still charging higher prices, they were now supplying the cheapest, lowest quality parts instead of the better quality they were known for. Given that, why would a person order from Napa, when Rock Auto is surprisingly lower priced, and you have a quality level choice . Napa seems to be riding on their previous well known name, while keeping the prices artificially high.
Some prime examples of this is, I purchased a starter solenoid, (eckland, Napa's electrical brand), as a preventative measure. The third start-up, after installing, the solenoid froze in the on position, with key off, and kept the starter spinning and engaged until I could unhook one battery terminal. Burned up the relay, starter, and a couple wires. I purchased a rebuilt alternator, took it from the box, and turned it, it felt rough turning, as if there was dirt in the bearing race or defective bearing components. I purchased Napa's best fuel pump, and it was very noisy from day one. I purchased a set of Napa Branded, 2 ton each, jack stands. One of them had a defective casting that would not allow the stop to lock in place. Although it seemed it locked, when weight was applied, it fell. I purchased rebuilt Ford Front calipers from Napa, and with in one year, the unplated soft steel bleeder screws has rusted solid to the caliper!
Are other people seeing this too??
By Max A-Profi
Bad shock absorbers – dangerous driving. The vehicle is due to their failure poorly manageable, the wheels have little traction with the road surface. This also leads to a malfunction of the brake system. The main task, which is carried out shock absorber in car, is to control and hold the wheel while driving. This avoids losing control of the vehicle.
Shock absorbers are also designed to damp vibrations that occur when driving on an uneven surface, off-road and when the speed changes. Springs do not always cope with the load. Consequently, the safety of the vehicle and passengers directly depends on the shock absorber. Therefore, it is necessary to pay special attention to the selection of these parts of the chassis of the car.
The structure and types of shock absorbers
Shock absorbers consist of a cylinder with a piston inside and a valve mechanism. The combination of such elements in this system allows you to damp the vibrations in a timely manner and prevent the car from swaying violently.
Varieties by the principle of action
The most common are hydraulic and gas shock absorbers:
Hydraulic shock absorbers put out the vibrations of the elastic elements of the suspension using oil that flows from one tank to another through a valve system. Gas shock absorbers they also use liquid, but it is preliminarily “squeezed” by a small volume of gas. Varieties in structure
Two-pipe . Single-tube with gas pressure. Two-pipe with gas pressure. Single-tube have advantages, because the liquid in this device does not overheat. They are also practical: the housing can be installed up and down.
Two-pipe ones consist of two cavities, one has a piston with valves, and the second is necessary to partially fill it with oil and air. If they are absent or too few in design, then the shock absorber stops working or is compressed without resistance. In the event of such malfunctions, it is necessary to contact a car service or service station that has equipment for repairing shock absorbers. This device will restore the performance of parts.
Diagnostics of malfunctions of shock absorbers and the main causes of their failure
Checking the fault is quite simple:
If during driving the car does not shake and extraneous noise is not heard, then the shock absorbers function normally. If in motion there are problems with braking, smooth running, fitting into a turn, and also the car cannot gain a certain speed, then it is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the shock absorbers. Such problems can lead to an accident caused by an increase in wheel slip vibration. Most often, the main cause of the breakdown may be leakage of fluid through a damaged seal. This can happen in such cases:
Wear of the sealing material due to friction. Sudden change in temperature. Dirt and dust are trapped in the shock absorber. Gas or air are trapped in the shock absorber. To avoid breakdowns, it is necessary to seek the help of professionals in a timely manner, who will make a diagnosis and restore the parts if necessary. This can help special nozzles that are used to repair gas-oil shock absorber. They allow you to pumping gas, add fluid, and also control the pressure process.
Equipment for repairing shock absorbers is a special device that will allow specialists to restore the main part of the suspension quickly and efficiently. In total
The oil and gas parts of the undercarriage are important elements in the design of the car. They are responsible for its performance, safety during movement. Today, A-PROFI Company provides an opportunity to protect yourself and your car by manufacturing quality restoration equipment that meets all the requirements of modern automotive industry. You can study or buy equipment for the restoration of shock absorbers on our website.
By Max A-Profi
Equipment for ball joint repair is very popular today. Why? I propose to sort this out together.
The quality of roads, unfortunately, is far from always meeting the standards that we would like to see. This is well known not only to all drivers, but also to passengers. The first thing that suffers from this is the ball joints, which during the movement of the vehicle experience destructive effects from all sides. In the picture, the zones of maximum load exerted on the nodal connection are marked in red:
Sectional picture of a ball joint The node itself consists of two elements:
Sleeve; Swivel ball. Between them is a special polymer, which:
It softens the force of ball impact on the sleeve; Minimizes the effect of friction of metal parts against each other. All problems, including wrest the wheel on its side, are possible if the polymer liner is worn, which is inevitable over time.
Wrest the wheel-turned wheel example SJR technology avoids such a catastrophic outcome and, with timely intervention, maintains the performance of the ball joint almost endlessly. How it works? Let’s figure it out.
There are two methods for ball support recovery using SJR equipment:
Removal of old polymer Drill a hole in the case of the sleeve; Burn the remains of the old polymer with a gas burner; In the extruder, melt a new batch of polymer Under high pressure, the molten polymer is injected into the cavity between the ball and the sleeve through a hole previously made. The solution fills all the voids, solidifies and forms a new liner, not inferior in its characteristics to the factory insert. 2. Demountable
The collapsible method is more complicated and longer, but also more efficient. It is used when there is significant wear on the ball joint, the appearance of rust on the ball.
In this case, the repair begins with the following steps:
Cut the sleeve in half. Polish the ball. Brew sleeve. The final steps are the same as in the previous method.
The advantages of using this technology are quite obvious. It:
Economic benefit. Recovery is always cheaper than buying a new part; Universality. Suitable for the restoration of any ball joints and steering tips; The compact dimensions of the necessary equipment. Even the largest machine can easily be rearranged from one place to another by one person and can be comfortably located not only in a spacious car service, but also in a small garage workshop; Cheap consumables. Variants of suitable equipment
The operations described above can be carried out using various equipment that differs from each other:
At the cost of; In size; Power; In level of automation. We will briefly consider four models presented on our website.
Equipment for ball joint repair – Light version
The simplest version of equipment for recovery of ball joints and steering includes:
An extruder for heating and forming a polymer consistency; Three interchangeable adapter fittings, with which the solution is charged under pressure into the problem area; Remote thermometer that allows you to monitor the temperature of the detail at a distance; Five polymer rods, shipping container and instructions. The pressure of such a device is only 25 kg / cm2 , and it needs a compressor with a capacity of 7-10 atm at the service station. The set is quite economical in terms of financial expenses, as it costs only 180 $, and is compact, but quite demanding on additional equipment and labor costs from the operator.
Equipment for ball joint repair – Modification 1
This model is reinforced:
A more powerful piston capable of creating pressure up to 80 kg / cm 2 ; The control unit simplifies the operation of the device. But it also costs a little more: 370 $.
Equipment for ball joint repair – Modification 2
In the next modification, the piston power reaches 100 kg / cm2 . But its main advantage is the presence of a high-quality mechanism for centering the ball joint. Such an addition allows during the introduction of the molten polymer to firmly and reliably fix the part in one position. This facilitates the work of the operator, and the quality of the result improves.
The cost of such equipment reaches 640 $.
Equipment for ball joint repair – SJR 3 machine
The SJR 3 machine will cost 1 180 $ for your workshop, but will eventually work out every cent invested and will bring considerable profit from above. This is a fully automated unit, equipped with all technological advances.
Here are just a few of its most significant advantages:
The created pressure – 240 kg / cm 2 ; Full control of the melting process; Automatic nozzle feed; Mechanical clamp and centering of the ball joint; Robust cast housing. Conclusion
The restoration of ball joints and steering tips using SJR technology is a technologically advanced, profitable and easily feasible process in the presence of the necessary equipment. It is noteworthy that such equipment is available in different price categories, so that every car repair shop can make the optimal choice for itself.
Tesla Model S X 3 Parts Control Arm Tie Rod End Stabilizer Link Wheel Hub Brake Pad Factory Supplier ChinaBy CHEN HAI
Taizhou Telubao Chassis Parts Co.,Ltd Produce Chassis parts as Control Arm, Stabilizer Bar Link, Tie Rod End, Wheel Hub Bearing, Steering Knuckle, Bushing, Parking Brake Pad, etc Fit For Tesla, Land Rover, Jaguar, Porsche, BMW Audi Benz Lincoln Maserati Lexus... as aftermarket replace use. www.smkcarparts.com www.tlbchassisparts.com or WhatsApp us by +8613855273205 for more...BENGBU SMK AUTO PARTS CO.,LTD CHINA MANUFACTURER