MCT

Must be "The handy Man's secret weapon, Duct Tape" As  Red Green use to say.

Referring to the 3M.

ooh! My brother uses rockauto A L O T. They are a good company.

here are a number of things that could be causing this p0420 catalyst efficiency code. The most common thing is the catalytic converter itself is no longer functioning properly.
The other likely thing is the rear O2 (oxygen) sensor is no longer working properly. Other things could include exhaust leaks, damaged exhaust pipes, damaged O2 sensor wiring/connectors, plugged catalytic converter, etc.
The easiest thing to do first is a visual check of things. Visually inspect the exhaust system for leaks, check the catalytic converter for dents, holes, severe discoloration, and check for a rattle inside. If any of those syptoms are there, the converter likely needs replacement.
Then, visually inspect the downstream O2 sensor (behind the converter). Check for broken wires, obvious faults, etc. If all that checks out, you'll want to check the operation of the O2 sensor. To do that, you'll need access to a scan tool or oscilliscope. Check that the waveform is pretty steady. If the reading fluctuates then the sensor is likely bad and will need to be replaced.
Try this, turn the ignition key to the on position, (engine not running) and pull the fuse to your ECM for 30 seconds and then re-install it. Once re-installed, start the engine and let idle for 1 min and then go for a test drive.
If the engine stalls, let it. The ECM is relearning the sensors and engine, just restart it and after 1 min when the RPM drops. Go for a test drive and see if the service engine light comes back on and re-scan for the DTC codes and address the issues indicated by the DTC code.
 

There phone number is 1800- CHEAP PARTS

You must think your the admin of the site, HA!

Gimme a sec, I need to go  call Customer returns at  parts place......       

Just now, MCT said:

I have heard Nickel Alloy has the tendency to gum up. I prefer Iridium for heat resistance.

Is it a myth or something?

I have heard Nickel Alloy has the tendency to gum up. I prefer Iridium for heat resistance.

http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemcatalogs/p/kawasaki_side_x_side_2017_mule_pro_fx/kawasaki_accessories-audio_system/5514328c87a8650fc86d7640/audio-system

Located within the polyethylene plastic housing is a compact marine grade 4” AM/FM stereo, two compact 3” marine grade speakers, USB and AUX input adapter and amplified internal antenna

The USB input allows for playback of MP3/WMA (Windows Media Audio) files from compatible flash drives

The system is pre-assembled and ready to securely mount to your dash with a simple two-wire, plug-and-play installation

Additional Stereo Features:

AM/FM/USB stereo

Long-range amplified internal antenna provides amazing clarity

Large, daylight readable LCD display with blue backlit controls for a user-friendly interface

Marine grade IPX6 waterproof design

40w x 4 maximum output for powerful sound

RCA amplifier line-out

Audio tone, balance, and fade controls 

Additional Speakers Features:

3” marine grade 2-way speakers

Waterproof, corrosion and UV resistant

Bridged woofers/tweeters

Rubber suspension polypropylene cones

60 watts max power

30 watts RMS power

I have an old Kawasaki atv K&N filter was 16$!!! I got ripped off, i now use wix.

We all have our favorite oil filter, or we just go for the cheapest.... Have your say in which you think is best!

On 7/24/2017 at 10:40 PM, Teddy said:

.More and more people buy online and that has to hurt parts sales at these locations

The good thing about buying parts from the store, If you buy the wrong part, you can blame it on the employee.

I'm still not  sure about using full synthetic oils. I've heard they are harder on Gaskets,Seals, O rings. Is that just a myth or what?

They had to change because of EPA policies @APF

Oops, sorry, i was mistaken. it was R 22 they changed, Sorry.

R-134a is the exact same thing as freon. They were required to change the name, and  few "ingredients" because of the EPA.