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Selling Suspension Conversion Kits
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By Counterman
If a customer mentions that they’re seeing fluid trickling from a suspension bushing, their eyes aren’t playing tricks on them. That bushing could be hydraulic.
Hydraulic suspension bushings were developed in response to customer demands for smoother, quieter and better-handling vehicles. To achieve this, sophisticated suspension components are needed. Modern suspension systems look a lot different than they used to, with multiple links used to maintain suspension geometry.
A non-hydraulic suspension bushing typically will feature a number of empty voids inside them. These voids are a product of clever engineering, and they allow for deflection/compression in a specific direction when placed under load. Hydraulic bushings fill those empty voids with a fluid. This fluid works like a hydraulic damper, while still allowing for deflection/compression when under load.
The word “hydraulic” might imply that hydraulic fluid or oil is used inside these bushings, but they typically use a glycol mixture instead. Oil or hydraulic fluid would break down the rubber inside the bushing and cause it to fail prematurely. If you’ve ever seen a radiator hose that got coated in engine oil, you know what we’re talking about.
These bushings are engineered with a certain tire and wheel combination in mind. This means increasing the tire and/or wheel sizes can throw this off, and the suspension may need to be repaired more frequently.
Hydraulic bushings are able to isolate noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) from entering the vehicle cabin more effectively than standard bushings. Hydraulic bushings can be firmer without compromising passenger comfort, leading to crisp steering response and road feel. They will deflect less under load, such as braking or hard cornering, and this means better vehicle stability.
But, all bushings eventually will wear out and need to be replaced. Hydraulic bushings may crack, rip or tear, just the same as non-hydraulic bushings will. The big giveaway is the hydraulic fluid leaking from the bushing.
Failing hydraulic bushings typically exhibit one or more of the following symptoms:
Clunking or knocking noises while braking or turning Evidence of fluid leaks coming from the bushings Unwanted suspension movement Tire wear (from excessive suspension movement) Increased NVH transferring into the vehicle cabin Replacement Tips
Hydraulic bushings likely will be more expensive to replace than standard bushings. Here are a few tips and tricks to share with your customers.
Let’s start with the most important tip: Always check the OE service information. Even if your customer has performed this type of repair in the past, it’s still a good idea to check the service information to see if anything has been updated recently. They should road-test the vehicle before and after the repair.
If your customer is pressing a hydraulic bushing into or out of a suspension arm, they should be careful not to apply force directly against the rubber part of the bushing. Doing this will most likely rupture the rubber bushing, causing the hydraulic fluid to spill all over the floor. Once this happens, the bushing is ruined and must be replaced. Be sure to only apply force against the outer race or sleeve.
Modern bushings likely will feature some sort of locating mark, notch or indicator. Reference the OE service information to learn how to correctly align the bushing to the suspension arm. Doing this will allow the suspension to articulate properly. Failure to do this may cause the suspension to bind up during movement, and/or cause the bushing to wear out or fail prematurely.
It’s strongly recommended to wait to torque the fasteners down to specification until the suspension has been set to normal ride height. If the fasteners are tightened down with the vehicle in the air, the bushing will be forced to twist when the vehicle is lowered onto the ground. This means that the bushing will always be twisting at normal ride height, and this will surely lead to premature wear, tearing and/or failure.
Finally, your customer should perform a four-wheel alignment if the service information calls for it. Some suspension components may not require an alignment after service; it depends on the make, model and application.
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By Counterman
Rack-and-pinion steering is the predominant type of steering system on vehicles today.
Simplicity is one of the reasons for their popularity. On these systems, an inner and outer tie-rod end on each side connects the steering rack to the steering knuckle. The inner tie-rod ends tend to last longer than the outers because they have a smaller range of motion, and they simply don’t get the same abuse as the outers on these systems.
Throughout the life of a vehicle with rack-and-pinion steering, it’s not uncommon to replace outer tie-rod ends multiple times, and rarely or never replace the inners – as long as the boot (also known as bellows) that protects them from dirt and moisture isn’t damaged.
Before rack-and-pinion steering became popular, a parallelogram steering linkage was the predominant setup on most cars and trucks, consisting of a pitman arm, idler arm, center link and inner and outer tie-rod ends on each side. The tie rods are connected by a tie-rod sleeve. Even after rack-and-pinion systems became popular and virtually standard on all cars, parallelogram steering remained in use on trucks, vans and heavy-duty vehicles for many years, but today rack-and-pinion is becoming more common on them too.
There’s another type of steering system you may run across, also common on some trucks and heavy-duty vehicles, and it consists of a drag link and tie rods. The difference is there’s no idler arm. A drag link goes from the pitman arm to a tie rod that connects to the steering knuckle, and second tie rod runs from the first to the other steering knuckle.
Terminology can vary, but don’t let that throw you. In this illustration, No. 4 is the drag link, No. 2 and No. 1 are tie rods. Some people may refer to the drag link as an inner and outer tie rod. Also note No. 6, a steering damper, is a common feature on heavy-duty vehicles.
When selling steering components, it can be useful to look at a diagram, in case your customer is unsure of the name of the component they need. You also can use it as an aid in pointing out additional items they may need.
The Quality Question
It’s not uncommon to be asked about quality, especially with the different lines and varying cost of the steering components you sell. The “economy” or “value” line is designed to make it affordable to repair a vehicle. There’s nothing wrong with these components. I’ve used them many times, and they’re as safe as any other. Will they last as long? Most likely not, but many people choose to go this way because it’s simply all they can afford, and we all can respect that.
On heavy-duty or vehicles that the owner plans to keep long-term, it’s best to recommend a higher-end line of components. They’ll last longer, and you also can remind your customer that every time you replace a steering component, an alignment must be performed. That’s an additional cost, and worn components also will cause abnormal tire wear. A less expensive component that doesn’t last as long actually might cost more in the long run.
Where’s the Grease Fitting?
Fewer steering components come with grease fittings than in the past. Many people perceive this as a sign of “cheap” or low quality. This is far from the case. Many high-quality steering components today are constructed with better materials and higher-quality lubricants. Lack of a grease fitting doesn’t mean low quality. But it does mean there’s no way a poor-quality lubricant can be added to the joint, it can’t be over-greased, and there’s no way for moisture or contaminants to find their way in either.
Here’s the kicker: Is your customer going to personally grease the fittings themselves? As a professional technician, if I had a nickel for every greaseable joint I’ve seen that was completely worn out, with not even a remote sign of grease ever having touched the zerk fitting … you know the rest. This is reality. Blame it on whomever. If the greaseable joints aren’t going to be greased, I’d rather have those not designed for it.
Extras
There are a few good suggestions to keep in mind when selling steering components. If it’s a rack-and-pinion vehicle, rack boots are a good suggestion since the outer tie-rod ends must be removed to replace them. On parallelogram steering, when tie rods are replaced, tie-rod adjusting sleeves are a huge benefit. These are almost always rusted in place and difficult to loosen and turn. New sleeves make the installation much quicker, as well as the alignment. If the vehicle has a steering damper, it’s always a great recommendation. These tend to get ignored, but are commonly worn out. And finally, don’t forget grease for the grease gun, and shop rags to clean up the mess.
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By Counterman
In link hidden, please login to view, we gave leaders from the major distribution groups and trade associations an opportunity to reflect on the most critical issues affecting the automotive aftermarket. For the second year in a row, we let distribution leaders “riff” on these topics in their own words.
Here’s what JC Washbish, vice president of sales and marketing for the Aftermarket Auto Parts Alliance, had to say on the power of partnerships.
The Alliance has been full-speed down the front stretch of 2023 with our joint-venture partners, Federated Auto Parts, and the newly established Federated-Alliance! It has been exciting, to say the least, to work with our close friends at Federated. Our goal from Day 1 has been to sell better! It remains our aim to be the best independent distributor in the industry.
The Federated-Alliance partnership has led to our inclusion in the Automotive Parts Services Group (The Group). The Alliance would like to thank Sue Godschalk, president of Federated Auto Parts, and Robert Roos, president and CEO of the Pronto Network Cooperative, for welcoming the Alliance into The Group with open arms. It was an honor to attend The Group’s 2023 National Conference in National Harbor, Maryland, this past March. The Alliance also would like to thank all the valued channel partners that supported and attended the wonderful event. Without their support or their quality products, we wouldn’t be able to accomplish our goal: selling better!
The Alliance also has increased its membership within the Alliance Commercial Vehicle and Heavy-Duty program with the additions of Pardo Fleet Solutions located in Sewell, New Jersey, in March. Piston Ring Service & Supply of Winnipeg officially joined the program in April. Finally, the Alliance is excited to announce Arnold Oil Supply of Austin, Texas, as its newest CVHD member this past June.
The focus of the Alliance takes a political shift as we head into the second half of the year. We will answer the calls of Bill Hanvey, president and CEO of the Auto Care Association, and Paul McCarthy, president and CEO of MEMA Aftermarket Suppliers, to work together to pass The REPAIR Act.
July is Right to Repair month. We are mobilizing our employees, our shareholder members as well as our shop customers and encouraging them to contact their members of Congress to ask that those officials support the REPAIR Act. The Alliance will attend the Auto Care Association Legislative Summit this September to further demand passage of the bill by their members of Congress.
In fact, I am asking YOU, the reader (come on, you’ve made it this far), to also contact your member of congress today by visiting this link:
link hidden, please login to view. The Alliance is looking forward to a fantastic back stretch of 2023 and is hopeful that as a united industry we will all be protected with the Right to Repair.
Aftermarket Auto Parts Alliance Inc.
Founded: 2000 Headquarters: San Antonio Number of members/shareholders: 37 Number of distribution centers/parts stores: 3,000+ Website: link hidden, please login to view and link hidden, please login to view. The post
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By Counterman
Westar Distribution recently announced the release of its new line of complete air-suspension kits.
The kits cover millions of vehicles, depending on the type of kit the customer chooses.
Kits are supplied in two configurations: direct replacement kits and complete service kits. Both configurations are available as front, rear or complete kits.
Direct replacement kits include:
Air spring (if applicable) Air-strut unit Compressor Solenoid or control valve (where applicable) Complete service kits include:
Air Spring (to rebuild the original air strut) Compressor Solenoid or control valve (where applicable) For more information and application information, visit
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By Counterman
The late George Carlin had an entire standup routine about “stuff.” How your house is just a place to keep your stuff, and that you have to lock it up when you leave so nobody steals your stuff while you’re out getting more stuff! He also related how when we go on vacation, we need to take some of our stuff with us. Not everything, mind you, but probably at least two suitcases worth of stuff – a smaller version of the stuff in your house.
Back when George was on the road performing this routine, his Dodge Dart easily could have fit those two suitcases (and more) in the trunk, and seat six people comfortably on a long road trip. These days, the amount of stuff we choose to bring with us on vacation has outgrown the cargo space available in many vehicles.
Many SUVs have folding second- and third-row seats to create extra room, but it becomes a compromise when faced with the decision between more people or more stuff. Short of pulling a trailer or renting a box truck, we must get more creative to bring all our stuff with us wherever we’re going. Fortunately, a variety of racks, carriers and other cargo solutions are available to help with our road trips.
Roof racks are a common sight atop everything from compact cars to minivans. Many vehicles feature factory roof rails, which provide a secure base upon which a set of crossbars can be attached, creating a platform for luggage and sports equipment. Universal crossbar kits also can be purchased for vehicles without existing roof rails. Roof racks can be used to transport things like lumber and plywood more safely, provided they don’t exceed the weight limits of the crossbars or roof rails. Specialized carriers for kayaks, skis and bicycles are easily mounted to these crossbars, but customers always should be mindful of height clearances at the parking garage, drive-thru or even their own home garage!
The original rooftop carriers were hard clamshell cases built to protect cargo from the elements, but soft water-resistant cargo bags are now more popular. I recently sold a soft cargo bag to a customer heading on vacation. Unfortunately, the design of the bag let it sit directly on the roof of his SUV, strapped to the crossbars of his roof rack. For most vehicles, this is no problem, but it interfered with the operation and enjoyment of the power sunroof in his SUV. The fine print of the user’s guide also recommended against laying the bag directly on panoramic or other sunroof glass. We brainstormed a few expedient DIY workarounds, but ultimately, he decided to return the cargo bag and pack a little less stuff.
For vehicles with an installed hitch receiver, multiple bicycles also can be secured at the rear of the vehicle, although unloading a hatchback equipped with a bike carrier is a trial in patience. Another popular hitch-mounted accessory is the cargo basket carrier. I’ve seen customers use these to transport everything from bikes to coolers, and during hunting season, many have been spotted with a deer in the basket!
Heavy-duty models with side-loading ramps are designed for easy loading of snowblowers and mobility scooters. Hitch-mounted bed extenders can overcome the design features of today’s four-door trucks with their 4-, 5- and 6-foot bed lengths. These extenders can support up to 500 pounds, allowing your customer to load boards and other overlength cargo in an otherwise too-short bed.
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