-
Welcome to Auto Parts Forum
Whether you are a veteran automotive parts guru or just someone looking for some quick auto parts advice, register today and start a new topic in our forum. Registration is free and you can even sign up with social network platforms such as Facebook, X, and LinkedIn.
Rislone Hy-per Cool Radiator Cleaner Protects Cooling System
-
Similar Topics
-
By Dorman Products
Repair a Camry touchscreen without replacing the entire infotainment system | Dorman OE FIX 601-711
-
By Counterman
Australian clutch manufacturer Clutch Industries is launching two versions of its UniClutch system in the United States.
UniClutch and UniClutch Sport will be the first iterations of the system to launch in the United States.
UniClutch’s dual-core technology significantly boosts torque capacity without compromising drivability, according to the company.
“Its one-of-a-kind, patented and adaptable design fits a multitude of vehicles, simplifies inventory management, expedites clutch replacement time, and lessens common installation problems,” Clutch Industries said in a news release.
Compared to UniClutch, UniClutch Sport offers 15% more torque capacity and a sport-tuned pedal feel for more serious enthusiasts, the company noted.
“We’re thrilled to introduce UniClutch to the United States after seeing strong early success in the Australia market,” said Brad Davis, CEO of Clutch Industries. “Auto repair shop feedback has been very positive, especially from technicians praising a faster and easier installation process. It’s also been our experience that shops can carry 20 times less inventory without impacting their ability to service any vehicle. We feel confident that UniClutch has the potential to redefine the performance clutch market with this revolutionary design.”
Clutch installation typically is an expensive, complicated and lengthy process. UniClutch’s sealed design eliminates the need for flywheel machining, while the Flex Fit technology and pre-alignment allows for hassle-free “bolt-on” installation in minutes. The patented modular technology adapts to different engines and transmissions, greatly reducing installation times and empowering technicians to quickly service a wider range of vehicles.
“For parts distributors, UniClutch’s patented Flex Fit technology will be transformative in inventory management, simplifying thousands of product variations to just a few,” Clutch Industries said. “This creates a solution for the complex ordering process for distributors, avoiding the challenges faced by an ever-changing supply chain. With UniClutch, parts distributors can provide consistent service to customers with a better return on investment.”
A unique QR code found on every UniClutch contains manufacturing and performance specifications for each unit.
At launch, UniClutch will retail exclusively at select NAPA Auto Parts stores across the United States and is available for purchase online via
link hidden, please login to view. The post
link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view.
link hidden, please login to view -
By Counterman
Once hated and touted as “power robbers,” we’ve learned over the years how emission-control systems not only protect our environment, but also how they contribute to the overall performance, economy and longevity of today’s engines as an integral part of the combustion process.
Emission-control components are high on the list of parts you sell, because they affect vehicle operation, and if they’re not working properly, they result in the dreaded “Check Engine” light. There are many ways that the various emission systems on a vehicle tie together, but a look at the main players can help you develop a base understanding of how the overall system works.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation
Any internal-combustion engine produces blowby gasses, which are gasses from the combustion process that are forced past the piston rings into the crankcase. These gasses must be vented to prevent pressure buildup, which would cause oil to be forced past gaskets and seals. These gasses also combine with the oil vapors in the crankcase to form sludge and dilute the oil with unburned fuel.
From the early days, we knew that blowby gasses had to go, so we got rid of them – right into the atmosphere. At least that’s what we did until the 1960s (hello smog).
To reduce air pollution, auto manufacturers began to utilize positive-crankcase-ventilation (PCV) systems. PCV was a simple system to draw the vapors out of the crankcase using engine vacuum. The vapors and unburned fuel were then drawn back into the cylinders and burned, eliminating them as a source of air pollution.
But there was another benefit to it. Normal system operation pulled fresh air through the crankcase, which removed moisture – extending oil life and reducing sludge. Since PCV is more or less a controlled vacuum leak, the flow rate is important, and even on older vehicles, the fuel systems are calibrated to work in conjunction with it.
PCV systems still are utilized on modern engines, and engine-management systems are able to monitor their operation by checking the flow rate. The efficiency of modern PCV systems not only reduces emissions but also drastically extends oil life. PCV components range from the simple valves on an older vehicle to more complex integrated PCV orifices/oil separators found on or as part of the valve cover on many new engines.
Other PCV-related components include crankcase-ventilation filters and breather hoses. Don’t forget that these components are designed and calibrated to each engine and fuel system, even on older vehicles. Just because it fits doesn’t mean it’s correct, and also beware of aftermarket “catch cans.” Many people think this is a performance upgrade that traps oil vapor and contaminants before they’re drawn into the intake. This is true on some older vehicles, but on most modern engines the PCV system is so refined that it cannot be improved upon. Installing a “catch can” on these engines will most likely only result in a drivability issue.
Exhaust-Gas Recirculation
Exhaust-gas recirculation (EGR) is an emission-control technique designed specifically to reduce the formation of nitrogen oxide (NOx), a very unhealthy and dangerous gas that’s formed during the high temperature and pressure of combustion. It works by recirculating exhaust gas back into the cylinders and cooling the combustion process.
In reality, it doesn’t actually “cool” the combustion process, but by displacing oxygen, it prevents the air/fuel mixture from burning hot enough to form NOx. EGR can offer advantages to the combustion process, and modern engine-management systems are designed to maximize this, with the efficiency of gasoline engines often improved as a result. Not only is it illegal, but disabling any type of EGR control also will result in a loss of performance.
On diesel engines, EGR is again an effective emission-control device, but becomes considerably more complicated. Since diesel fuel ignites with the heat of compression, higher temperatures promote efficiency … but unfortunately also the formation of NOx. To combat this, many modern diesel engines have EGR coolers that allow a larger mass of recirculated exhaust gas into the intake.
But, this reduces the efficiency of the combustion process, which creates excessive soot. To combat this, a diesel-particulate filter (DPF) is installed in the exhaust to capture and store the soot, which must be burned off periodically to regenerate the filter.
Since EGR systems are critical for emissions and performance, they’re closely monitored and controlled by the powertrain control module. Common EGR components include everything from the common EGR valve to pressure sensors, EGR tubes, EGR coolers, control solenoids and pressure sensors.
Exhaust and Catalytic Converters
Catalytic converters need no introduction. Since the 1970s, they’ve been the major emission component that chemically converts the harmful pollutants in the exhaust into harmless gasses. On todays’ vehicles, they work in conjunction with oxygen and/or air/fuel ratio sensors, also well-known emission-control components.
Before the converters (pre-cat), the oxygen sensors report the air/fuel ratio to the engine control module so it can adjust the fuel mixture based on operating conditions and ensure that an improper mixture will not damage the converter itself. After the converter, a post-cat sensor again sends a signal to the engine control module, from which it determines the efficiency of the converter.
The diesel side again can seem more complicated. They too have what appears as a catalytic converter, but on a diesel, they contain not only a catalyst but also the DPF. They’re sometimes referred to as aftertreatment devices, and overall design can differ between vehicle makes. The process that occurs is referred to as selective catalytic reduction (SCR), during which the catalyst works in conjunction with injected diesel-exhaust fluid (DEF) to convert NOx into nitrogen, carbon dioxide and water vapor.
The DPF traps the soot, which is burned off through passive or active regeneration, and in some situations the process must be performed by a service technician. NOx sensors monitor the entire SCR process.
In addition to catalytic converters, exhaust-related emission components include oxygen, air/fuel ratio and NOx sensors; DEF and DEF-related components; and diesel aftertreatment devices.
Evaporative Emissions
Evaporative emissions refer to anything that helps keep fuel vapors in the tank and out of the atmosphere. This requires very strict monitoring of the pressure in the tank, and when venting is required, filtering of the fumes. EVAP canisters – sometimes referred to as charcoal canisters – store fuel vapors to prevent them from reaching the atmosphere until they can be drawn in by the engine.
The entire process of evaporative emissions requires multiple components, including the EVAP canister, hoses, lines, canister-purge solenoids, canister-purge valves, canister-vent solenoids and leak-detection pumps. The design of these systems often differs between manufacturer, so it can take some time to get used to all the different components.
The post
link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view.
link hidden, please login to view -
By Counterman
Rislone Engine Treatment is moving to a more concentrated product in a smaller bottle.
In an effort to “offer customers greater versatility at a lower cost,” a 16.9-fluid-ounce bottle of Maximum Performance Engine Treatment (P/N 4102) replaces the quart size (P/N 100QR) in the Rislone lineup, according to Rislone.
“Quart sizes of engine additives were preferable when consumers bought individual quarts of oil for every oil change,” said Clay Parks, vice president of development for Rislone. “They could just swap a quart of oil for a quart of Engine Treatment. Now that they’re buying larger jugs of oil, we can replace the quart-size Engine Treatment with one that offers the same performance in a smaller, more cost-effective formula. Customers can add a full bottle of Rislone Engine Treatment at every oil change and can use it at any time to clean and stop engine noises, like a sticky lifter.”
American-made Rislone Engine Treatment is formulated to reduce engine friction and wear; quiet noisy lifters and valves; remove and prevent sludge; and keep engines clean, according to the company.
“The Rislone formula has evolved through the years to stay ahead of engine-oil technology,” the company said in a news release. “The new concentrated formula contains high-quality penetrating oil combined with protective engine additives and special cleaning agents to help motor oil flow freely, which provides engine protection over a broader temperature range and helps mitigate the effects of LSPI (low-speed pre-ignition) in newer direct-injection engines. Rislone Engine Treatment penetrates valve lifters, bearing surfaces, and piston rings to remove and prevent sludge and varnish.”
The recommended dosage of Rislone Engine Treatment is one bottle for 4- to 6-quart systems in passenger cars and light trucks. For larger systems, such as for diesel trucks and stationary engines, one bottle treats every 5 quarts of oil capacity. It is compatible with conventional, high-mileage and synthetic engine oil in all gasoline, diesel and turbo engines.
The post
link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view.
link hidden, please login to view 
-
By Counterman
Air-conditioning (A/C) systems used to be much more forgiving for the DIYer, and professional technicians too. Compared to today’s systems, the different refrigerant and operating characteristics made them easier to charge. The refrigerant amount didn’t have to be as precise, and they used to have a sight glass through which you could see the refrigerant flow. Eliminate the bubbles and you were in good shape.
Is it possible for a DIYer to have success charging their own A/C system? The answer is yes – but with caution. They don’t have to be an A/C master, and as long as they keep a few details in mind, they’ll be blowing cold air in no time. We’ll get into the caution part down the page.
The Basics
Modern A/C systems are very dependable. It’s when they require service that many problems occur. The efficient operation and longevity of today’s R134a and R1234yf systems hinges on the accuracy of the refrigerant and oil charge. This is the most important point to keep in mind.
A topic that can easily be a freight train out of control, why a system is being recharged is a factor in the charging itself. Is the system just a little low or completely empty, and why? Was a component replaced due to a collision or a leak? Was the compressor replaced and was the system properly flushed?
The bottom line is these are factors that must be known to determine the proper amount of oil, if any, that should be added. The amount of oil to be added depends on the component that was replaced, and there’s no set standard. It varies for every component in every car. The manufacturer service information, as well as information included with replacement compressors, must be referenced to get it right.
The Refrigerant
R134a and R1234yf are similar in operation, but R1234yf is much friendlier for the environment, which is why it soon will be the only refrigerant available in new automobiles. R134a eventually will be phased out, but for now it will still be around for a long time to service the vehicles that originally came with it. Even though there are two different types, there’s no decision to be made: Use what the vehicle came with. It’s illegal to use R134a in anything that didn’t originally come with it, and the service fittings are different between the two to eliminate the possibility of cross-contamination.
Charging
Since it’s illegal to dispel any refrigerant into the atmosphere, if refrigerant needs to be recovered for a repair, a DIYer will have to take the vehicle to a shop to do it. That’s assuming they don’t have recovery equipment at home next to the lawnmower, and that’s one assumption I’m willing to make. If the system is completely empty, it will need to be evacuated prior to charging. There’s no way around this and it requires a vacuum pump. As a general rule of thumb, a 45-minute evacuation period is adequate.
In addition to the refrigerant, a DIYer will need to purchase the proper valve and hose, based on their refrigerant, to connect to the A/C system. Cans of refrigerant come with or without them, since they can be transferred between cans. With the proper amount of oil added and the vehicle running with the A/C system on, the refrigerant can be added to the system. It takes time and patience, but the system eventually will draw all refrigerant in.
The tricky part is the amount. It must be precise for proper performance. Again, unless they have charging equipment in the corner, they’ll have to estimate. Professionally, this isn’t acceptable, but it can be done with a little patience.
The easiest way to do this is to buy the cans that get you as close as possible to the proper amount. If you put a complete can of refrigerant in but still need 4 more ounces and you have an 8-ounce can, you just have to guess based on weight.
Many of the charging valves/hoses come with a small gauge. Since you charge from the low side (fittings are also different between low and high side), the gauges will have a “green” area that represents the range of correct low-side pressure for a properly charged system. This is an added tool to indicate proper system operation, and it can be used in conjunction with the amount, but don’t go too deep down this hole. It’s another freight train.
Ambient temperature has an effect on A/C outlet temperature, as well as how easy it is to charge the system. This can throw you off. The best thing to do is charge it at the hottest point of the day, put a thermometer in the dash outlet and monitor the temperature.
If it’s cold on the thermometer, it feels cold coming out of the dash and you’re close to having the right amount of refrigerant, it’s a good time to stop.
Proceed with Caution
When adding oil to an A/C system, it’s imperative to use the correct oil. All oils are not compatible, and they can wreak havoc on an A/C system. Even more important, many electric and hybrid electric vehicles use electric compressors that require a non-conductive oil. To avoid cross-contamination, a DIYer never should use the same can of refrigerant on two different vehicles
The post
link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view.
link hidden, please login to view
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.