Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

In the past, the lack of end-of-life batteries meant that the Li-ion (lithium-ion) recycling market had little opportunity to prosper. The transition to electric vehicles (EVs) is changing this, IDTechEx says in a recent report. Recycling enables countries to domesticate battery material supply, hedge risks of fluctuating metal prices, and reduce reliance on unsustainable mining practices. Various stakeholders across the value chain are upping recycling capacity to prepare for the mass availability of valuable end-of-life Li-ion batteries due to supply, regulatory and environmental motivations.

It seems that recovering valuable material by recycling Li-ion batteries is a no-brainer. However, the reality is more complicated, IDTechEx says. The profitability of recycling is dependent on EV-battery trends and whether OEMs will play a role in facilitating circularity in the battery supply chain.

The economics of recycling primarily depends on three factors: Li-ion battery chemistry; metal prices; and process costs, which are expected to decrease as recyclers scale. There’s a lot of variety between the chemical composition of EV batteries, particularly in the cathodes. The demand for higher energy density in EV batteries is causing a shift toward higher-nickel cathodes. However, the desire to drive battery costs down favors lower-value LFP cathodes – which some OEMs have recently switched to for their entry-level models. This is likely to impact the value of metals that recyclers can extract from end-of-life
EV batteries.

The most value can be extracted from LCO cathodes due to their high cobalt content, but these are typically used in consumer electronics, which will account for a small percentage of Li-ion batteries recycled, and it’s challenging to develop collection networks for them. In the new IDTechEx report, “Li-ion Battery Recycling Market 2022-2042,” the recycling value of each cathode type is compared. IDTechEx has investigated these trends and their impact, alongside metal price, to evaluate the economics of the Li-ion battery
recycling market.

OEMs are often subject to Extended Producer Responsibility regulations, meaning they are responsible for EV batteries when they reach their end of life. Therefore, it’s in the OEMs’ best interests to develop efficient, economic routes for waste end-of-life batteries, and the environmental credentials associated with recycling also are beneficial.

Volkswagen is developing a vertically integrated recycling and second-life business through “Volkswagen Group Components” and commissioned a pilot plant for recycling Li-ion batteries in 2021. Differing from most EV OEMs, Renault operates a battery-hire scheme on three of its models, as well as full ownership options. Renault optimizes the end-of-life management of its EV batteries using second-life applications and recycling with partners, such as Veolia. Tesla claims to be developing a battery recycling system at its Gigafactory in Nevada, having relied on third-party recyclers in the past, and BMW has formed strategic partnerships with recyclers, seeking to design cells with recycling in mind, says IDTechEx.

Involvement of these major OEMs looking to boost the sustainability of their EVs reflects the anticipation of the part Li-ion battery recycling will play in the future value chain. Not only are the OEMs likely to carry a legal responsibility for end-of-life Li-ion batteries, but the trends they influence also will impact the profitability of recycling. In addition to creating partnerships with recyclers from other sectors, OEMs themselves are acting and investing in their own processes and supply circularity.

IDTechEx has identified nearly 90 battery recyclers globally and observed that most of the current recycling capacity is in China. In 2021, there was a deficit in the number of Li-ion batteries available for the recycling capacity, presenting a market imbalance. Timing growth with end-of-life battery availability will be one of the biggest challenges that recyclers will face, and battery manufacturing scrap is likely to facilitate an increase in capacity before EV batteries begin reaching their end of life.

The post

link hidden, please login to view
appeared first on
link hidden, please login to view
.

link hidden, please login to view

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By GreenGears Auto Limited
      Published by GreenGears Auto  |  8 min read  |  Subframe Buying Guide
      When a subframe or crossmember fails, the temptation is to save money with an aftermarket replacement. The price difference looks compelling — an aftermarket subframe for a Honda Accord might cost $120 vs. $280 for a used OEM unit. But for structural chassis components, that price difference carries consequences that don't show up until 6,000 miles later. This guide explains exactly what those consequences are, and why used OEM is almost always the right call for subframes and engine cradles. What Is a Subframe and Why Does It Matter So Much?
      The subframe — also called an engine cradle, K-frame, or suspension crossmember — is the structural foundation of your vehicle's front or rear suspension. Every suspension mounting point, steering rack, and engine/transmission mount connects to it. When you steer, brake, or accelerate, the forces travel through the tyres and wheels into the suspension and into the subframe. It is not a peripheral component — it is load-bearing structure.
      This matters because subframe quality directly affects three things most drivers care deeply about: alignment stability, handling feel, and long-term reliability. A subframe that doesn't hold its geometry under load — or that holds it differently from the OEM unit — produces alignment drift, steering wander, and tyre wear that no alignment shop can permanently correct, because the underlying structure is wrong.
      The Aftermarket Subframe Problem
      Aftermarket subframes exist primarily for the collision repair market, where insurance companies pressure shops to use lower-cost alternatives to OEM. They are manufactured to be "close enough" — the mounting points are approximately in the right locations, the bolt patterns are approximately correct, and the overall shape is approximately right. In practice, this creates several specific problems.
      1. Dimensional Tolerance Differences
      OEM subframes are manufactured to tolerances measured in tenths of a millimetre. Suspension geometry — caster, camber, and toe — depends on mounting point locations being accurate to within fractions of a degree. Aftermarket subframes are typically manufactured to tolerances of 1–3mm, which sounds small but translates to measurable geometry deviation at the wheel. The result is a vehicle that drifts, wears tyres unevenly, and requires constant alignment correction.
      2. Steel Grade and Wall Thickness
      OEM subframes use high-strength steel alloys — often dual-phase or TRIP steels — with precisely engineered wall thicknesses optimised for both strength and weight. Aftermarket subframes typically use lower-grade mild steel at higher wall thickness to compensate, resulting in a heavier unit that doesn't deform in the same way during a collision. In modern vehicles designed with specific crumple zones and energy absorption paths, this matters for safety.
      3. Corrosion Protection
      Toyota applies its electrodeposition coating to subframes before assembly — the same coating used on the body. Honda uses a similar process. These factory corrosion protections are difficult or impossible to replicate in aftermarket manufacturing. The result is that aftermarket subframes frequently begin surface corrosion within 2–3 years in northern climates, while OEM units from comparable donor vehicles may show minimal surface oxidation after 10+ years.
      4. Mounting Bracket and Weld Quality
      Every bracket on an OEM subframe — engine mount brackets, steering rack mounts, sway bar tabs — is welded under controlled factory conditions with consistent penetration and quality verification. Aftermarket subframe brackets are frequently thinner, attached with fewer welds, and at slightly different positions, causing looseness, vibration, and eventual cracking at the weld points under road loads.
      OEM vs. Aftermarket vs. Used OEM — The Real Comparison
      Factor New OEM Aftermarket Used OEM (GreenGears) Dimensional accuracy ✅ Factory spec ⚠️ Approximate ✅ Factory spec Steel grade ✅ OEM alloy ⚠️ Lower grade ✅ OEM alloy Corrosion protection ✅ Factory coating ❌ Basic primer ✅ Original coating Weld quality ✅ Factory certified ⚠️ Variable ✅ Original factory welds Alignment result ✅ Holds spec ⚠️ Often drifts ✅ Holds spec Typical cost $700–$2,400+ $80–$280 $160–$680 Warranty (GreenGears) Dealer warranty Variable/limited 90 Days The cost gap between aftermarket and used OEM is real — but it's narrower than it appears once you factor in alignment costs ($80–$150 every time the aftermarket unit shifts), repeat repairs when the bracket welds crack, and the labour cost of doing the job twice.
      Real-World Consequences of Aftermarket Subframes
      "My alignment keeps going out"
      This is the most common complaint after an aftermarket subframe installation. The owner gets an alignment after the repair, drives for 3,000 miles, and the steering starts pulling again. They go back for another alignment — same result. The problem isn't the alignment; it's that the aftermarket subframe's mounting point tolerances allow the suspension geometry to shift under load in ways that an OEM unit doesn't. The only fix is replacing the aftermarket subframe with an OEM unit.
      Vibration through the steering wheel
      Aftermarket subframe mounting bushings are frequently a different durometer (hardness) than OEM, and bracket attachment points that are 1–2mm off cause the steering rack to transmit road vibration differently. The result is a steering feel that's subtly but noticeably different from stock — often described as "rough" or "numb" where the original was precise.
      Premature tyre wear
      Toe deviation of even 0.2 degrees — well within the tolerance range of a typical aftermarket subframe — causes measurable inner or outer tyre wear within 15,000 miles. On a vehicle where the alignment appears correct but the subframe geometry is slightly off, the tyres wear in a pattern that no amount of adjustment can prevent because the root cause isn't the alignment — it's the structure the alignment is measured against.
      When Aftermarket Is Acceptable — and When It Isn't
      To be fair: not all aftermarket subframes are equally poor, and not all applications carry equal risk.
      Lower risk: older vehicles, off-road applications, track builds
      For a vehicle being rebuilt for off-road use, a track car that will run non-OEM alignment settings anyway, or an older vehicle where OEM subframes are genuinely unavailable, aftermarket can be a practical choice. The geometry standards that matter for a daily-driven Accord matter less for a Jeep with a lift kit and custom suspension.
      Higher risk: daily drivers, vehicles with ADAS, AWD platforms
      For a daily-driven vehicle — particularly one with lane-keeping assist, automatic emergency braking, or other ADAS systems that depend on precise suspension geometry — aftermarket subframes introduce meaningful risk. ADAS calibration assumes OEM geometry. An aftermarket subframe that's 1.5mm off in a suspension mounting point can cause persistent ADAS warnings that can't be resolved through calibration alone. AWD vehicles are even more sensitive — subframe geometry affects driveshaft angle and AWD balance on platforms like the Honda CR-V and Toyota RAV4.
      ⚠️ Aftermarket Subframes and Insurance Repairs If your vehicle is repaired after a collision through insurance and an aftermarket subframe is used without your explicit consent, you may have grounds to request OEM replacement. Many states have laws requiring insurers to disclose when non-OEM parts are used. A used OEM subframe costs only moderately more than a typical aftermarket unit — it's worth requesting it specifically. Why Used OEM Works for Subframes Specifically
      Subframes are an ideal used OEM purchase for a specific reason: they are among the most durable components on any vehicle. A subframe from a 55,000-mile accident-damaged Toyota Camry has experienced exactly 55,000 miles of normal road load — the same load it was designed to handle for 150,000+ miles. There is no internal wear, no fluid degradation, no moving parts. It is a piece of formed and welded steel that is either dimensionally intact or it isn't.
      At GreenGears Auto, every subframe is inspected for:
      Bending or twisting from impact — a bent subframe from collision damage is rejected regardless of mileage Crack propagation at weld points — stress cracks near mounting brackets disqualify a unit Mounting point thread integrity — stripped or cross-threaded bolt holes are a disqualifier Corrosion depth — surface oxidation is noted; through-rust is a disqualifier Bracket completeness — missing or damaged auxiliary brackets are documented before listing ✅ The Used OEM Subframe Advantage in Practice A used OEM Honda Accord front subframe from GreenGears Auto costs $180–$360. A new OEM dealer unit costs $700–$1,400. An aftermarket unit costs $80–$160. The used OEM unit is the factory unit — same steel, same welds, same geometry — at the same price point as a quality aftermarket alternative. The choice becomes straightforward. Most Popular Used OEM Subframes in Our Inventory
      Our
      link hidden, please login to view covers front and rear subframes and engine cradles for domestic and import vehicles. Top platforms include Honda Accord and CR-V, Toyota Camry and RAV4, Nissan Armada, Ford Fusion and Escape, Chevrolet Equinox, and VW MQB platform vehicles. All carry a 90-day warranty from confirmed delivery. If your specific vehicle isn't listed,
      link hidden, please login to view — we can search our salvage yard network for your application and confirm availability before anything ships. Shop Used OEM Subframes — Factory Fit, 90-Day Warranty
      Free US shipping on every order. VIN fitment confirmed before dispatch.
      Use code below for an extra 10% off:
      GGA10 📧 [email protected]  |  📞 +1 (315) 305-4300
      GreenGears Auto — Drive Green. Drive Smart.
      🛡️ 90-Day Warranty  ·  🚚 Free US Shipping  ·  ↩️ 15-Day Returns

      link hidden, please login to view
    • By Counterman
      It’s a common comeback: a failed starter covered in oil. Let’s break down why replacing it alone won’t fix the issue and how to prevent it.
      The starter converts electrical energy into mechanical rotation to crank the engine. It relies on clean, dry internal components for proper operation. Engine seals, like valve covers, cam seals, rear main seals and oil pans, are designed to keep oil contained. When these seals fail, oil can leak externally and contaminate components mounted below, including the starter.
      In some vehicle layouts, a rear main seal leak can travel along the bellhousing and reach the starter, though that depends on how the engine and transmission are positioned.
      An oil-soaked starter can suffer internal damage to brushes and electrical contacts, leading to slow crank, intermittent operation, or no crank at all. Oil also attracts dirt, accelerating wear.
      Heat plays a role as well. On vehicles where the starter is located near the exhaust, oil contamination can bake onto the housing and internal components, forming a varnish or sludge. That buildup can increase electrical resistance and further degrade starter performance.
      In real world situations, a technician may replace the starter, only to see the new one fail prematurely. That often results in warranty returns, but the real issue is the unresolved oil leak continuing to contaminate the replacement unit.
      Verify the starter concern, then inspect for oil contamination. Check above the starter for leaks from valve covers, cam seals, or rear main seals. ASE diagnostic logic emphasizes fixing the root cause before replacing components. The correct repair may involve replacing the failed gasket or seal. If immediate repair isn’t practical,
      link hidden, please login to view can be used to help restore seal condition and reduce leakage. To apply, add it to the engine oil, do not overfill, run the engine to circulate, then drive normally. Most leaks stop within a few days of operation. If the starter is oil-soaked, the leak is the problem. Fix it, or the failure will come back.
      This video is sponsored by link hidden, please login to view.
      The post
      link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view.
      link hidden, please login to view
    • By Gogreenae
      Looking for reliable IT waste recycling services. Join the discussion to explore trusted providers specializing in the safe disposal and recycling of electronic waste, including computers, servers, and networking equipment. Learn about secure data destruction, certified recycling processes, and compliance with environmental regulations. Share your experiences, compare service providers, and discover the best IT waste recycling solutions to protect sensitive data while promoting sustainable and eco-friendly waste management practices.
      visit:-  link hidden, please login to view
       
           
    • By John Lewis
      I have a 2013 mazda 3i sport. I unfortunately scratched off its under cover engine splash shield guard and would like to replace it with a new one. However, the pics shown with online listing look so different from what I have kept, can anybody help me understand why is the case? Can I purchase the online parts to fit my car?

       
    • Government UFO Files
    • By OReilly Auto Parts
      How To Remove and Replace the Battery on a 2011-2015 Chevy Cruze

×
  • Create New...