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Buick Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement

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    • By KAVY Auto Parts
      Dedicated to developing and providing the premium ignition coils, makes Kavy a reliable manufacturer with an annual output of 6.8 million pieces, focused on domestic & overseas market.
      With an exceptional design and engineering capability to meet the OE standards or exceeds OE, Kavy has developed more than 700 SKU includes rail coil, distributor coil, block coil & pencil coils.
      Kavy’s over 95% product coverage enables us to meet the different application from American cars, European cars,Japanese & Korean cars and domestic cars.
    • By Ignition Coil Pack Factory
      China Electrical Car Parts Ignition Coil Factory Wholesale Ignition Coil Pack Car Parts in OE Quality. Best Car Engine Ignition Coil Wholesale from Car Parts Manufacturer Online.
    • By Counterman
      Continental’s line of ATE replacement brake fluids feature special formulations designed to help maximize brake-system performance in all types of electronic, hydraulic and racing systems.
      The full line includes ATE Super DOT 5.1, the technological standard for brake fluids; ATE SL.6 Brake Fluid, the ideal replacement for ESP, ABS and ASR electronic brake systems; ATE SL for hydraulic brake and clutch systems; and ATE TYP 200 for high-performance and racing applications.
      ATE Super DOT 5.1 Premium Brake Fluid’s formulation sets a new performance standard for brake fluids, according to Continental. It combines a high wet boiling point of 356 F with outstanding viscosity at very low temperatures to deliver a capability that previous brake fluids were unable to achieve. With a maximum of 750 mm²/sec. at minus 40 F, ATE Super DOT 5.1 viscosity values exceed even those of ISO Class 6, which are well above the specifications for DOT 5.1 class brake fluids, according to the company.
      ATE SL.6 brake fluidis the optimum replacement for DOT 4 fluid in ESP, ABS and ASR brake systems. Its low-viscosity texture allows electronic brake systems to react more quickly for improved safety. ATE SL.6 offersexcellent application coverage for the advanced braking systems used in high-end vehicle makes and models.
      ATE SL brake fluidis an excellent DOT 4 replacement for use as hydraulic fluid in brake and clutch systems. It features a mixture of polyethylene glycol ethers, polyethylene glycols and boric acid esters of polyethylene glycols with anti-corrosion/anti-aging agents. ATE SL meets and exceeds the requirements of the brake-fluid standards FMVSS-No. 116 – DOT 4, SAE J1704 and ISO 4925, Class 4, among others.
      ATE TYP 200 brake fluid exceeds all DOT 4 standards and excels under the extreme demands of high-performance driving. Compatible with all DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 brake fluids, the formula delivers a minimal drop in boiling point due to outstanding water-binding properties that result in a long-lasting fluid that can provide optimal performance for up to three years under normal highway driving conditions, according to Continental. The high wet and dry boiling points make this fluid an excellent choice for street-driven vehicles as well.
      “ATE brake fluids are the result of many years of experience and expertise in developing OE brake systems,” notes Dan Caciolo, head of product management at Continental. “The viscosity, boiling point and pressure behavior of our fluids interact perfectly to allow the braking system to react quickly and reliably in any application. Our boiling points and viscosity exceed legal specifications, while our high-quality additives help deliver outstanding corrosion protection and optimum compatibility with brake system’s sealing materials.”
      ATE is an aftermarket brand of Continental. For more information, visit
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    • By Counterman
      BMW, Porsche, Mini, Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagen, Audi. You’re probably familiar with these brands, but how familiar are you with their parts?
      European vehicles need repairs just as often as American or Asian vehicles, if not more often. They also boast an extremely strong following among tuning enthusiasts. You’re almost guaranteed to find modified VWs, Audis and BMWs at just about any car show or meet you pull up to.
      So, what is it that sets these vehicles apart from the rest? Let’s take a look at what makes these vehicles so desirable to owners, and what we as parts pros need to know in order to help them buy the right parts for their needs.
      German Engineering
      Yes, that’s a reference to Volkswagen’s advertising campaign from the mid-2000s. These commercials capitalized on the popularity of automotive TV shows like “Pimp My Ride” and “Overhaulin.” They were cheesy, over the top and downright funny.
      All jokes aside, there’s something special about the phrase “German engineering.” German automakers have long led the industry with pioneering and innovative technology. The Benz Patent-Motorwagen (“patent motorcar”) was built in 1885 by the German Carl Benz, so you could say that cars were invented by the Germans – but it didn’t end there. Nearly every modern automotive system has been influenced or refined by German engineering and innovation: everything from seat belts to air bags, adaptive cruise control to antilock brakes and traction/stability control. The list goes on and on.
      There’s another trait that I associate with German engineering (and all European vehicles), but it comes in the form of an expression: “10 pounds of stuff in a 5-pound bag.” While it seems that cars aren’t getting any bigger, automakers are finding ways to fit more and more systems, parts and control modules into them than ever before.
      If you’ve ever looked under the hood of an Audi S6 or S7 with the 4-liter turbocharged V-8 engine (pictured above), you’ll know what I’m talking about. These engines don’t look like any other V-8 engine in the world, and they’re a good example of how creative automakers have to be in order to fit their powerplants into modern vehicles.
      There are, of course, a few drawbacks to this sort of innovation and creativity: namely, complexity. Complex systems tend to utilize more individual parts, and this means that they may be more vulnerable to part failures. What we mean by this is the more hoses, pipes or connectors automakers add to vehicles, the more likely it is that any of these parts could leak or fail and need to be replaced.
      Let’s look at an example of this complexity: the cooling circuit from an S55-powered BMW M3 or M4 (Fig. 1). This diagram shows the number of hoses, pipes and heat exchangers that are needed to cool the engine, the incoming charge air and the engine oil. While this system is designed to hold up to a lot of abuse, a single faulty connection or leaking hose could cause a breakdown.
      Lightweight Materials
      Plastics and composite parts are replacing steel and aluminum parts in the interest of weight savings and fuel economy. Unfortunately, this sometimes comes at the cost of durability. The turbocharged 1.8-liter and 2-liter engines found in modern VWs and Audis feature radiator hoses with plastic connectors on either end. These connectors are known to become brittle and crack after years of heat-cycling under the hood. You might find that the lower radiator hose on these same engines has a coolant-temperature sensor built into the connector in the interest of saving space.
      Plastic isn’t the only lightweight material being used by modern automakers. The bolts that secure the thermostat to the water pump on the N54-powered BMW 335i are aluminum and cannot be reused once they’re removed. Aluminum bolts also are used to secure the transmission pan on the Mercedes-Benz 722.9 seven-speed automatic transmission.
      As parts professionals, it’s our responsibility to always “sell the whole job” to our customers. If a customer comes in for a radiator because the original one cracked, you should suggest that they replace other parts such as the hoses, since they may be just as brittle as that radiator was when it failed. If your customer is replacing a component that’s secured with aluminum bolts or hardware, be sure to sell it to them so they have everything they need before they start the repair.
      Remove and Discard
      Let’s dive deeper into hardware, because it’s especially important on European vehicles. Torque-to-yield (TTY) fasteners are far more common on these applications, used everywhere from suspension points to drivetrain mounts, and everything in between. TTY fasteners are torqued to extremely high values. This literally causes the bolts to stretch nearly to the breaking point, but in exchange it’s able to apply the maximum clamping force possible. Since these bolts are stretched out when torqued, they should not be reinstalled, as they could snap when tightened.
      Fasteners with locking splines or nylon locking rings, or pre-applied threadlocking compounds, help to prevent them from loosening. These types of fasteners are rather common in European applications, and most cannot be reused once installed.
      It’s always a good idea to check your parts catalog for suggested hardware, and then pass that information to your customer. If you come across a repair in which you needed to replace the hardware, share that experience with your co-workers. Sharing your combined experiences will only benefit you, your team and your customers.
      Double Vision
      I’d like to conclude with a unique example I found while working on a 2017 BMW M4 with the S55 inline-6 engine. The vehicle was in for a boost-tap install so the customer could monitor boost pressure from a gauge mounted in the A/C vent. The boost tap was a billet aluminum spacer that mounted between the MAP sensor and the intake manifold. A hose connected the boost tap to a gauge inside the vehicle. The customer had installed the boost tap, but it was only reading boost pressure, not engine vacuum.
      During a visual inspection I quickly spotted the problem: The boost tap had been installed into the wrong location. There are actually two MAP sensors on this engine: One is located on the charge-air cooler on top of the engine, and the other is mounted on top of the intake manifold.
      The MAP sensor on top of the intake manifold is almost impossible to see because the charge-air cooler is in the way, but it’s the only one capable of reading engine vacuum since it’s located after the throttle body. This was a quick and easy fix, but it’s a good example of how easy it can be to miss something obvious in such a busy engine compartment.
      Redundant sensors can be common in European vehicles like the M4 from this example. So, be sure to ask your customer the right questions and really get to the bottom of what it is that they’re working on, and what they need to fix it right the first time.
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    • eManualonline.com - Save 5% OFF on orders Over $50, Use Code Blaze. Ends 12/31/22.
    • By Counterman
      My favorite billboard sign of all time was one that once stood over Woodward Avenue during the Woodward Dream Cruise. It had a picture of a 1970 Chevelle and a caption that said, “The only carbs we cared about were under the hood.”
      It harkened to a different time – a time of automotive passion that saw high horsepower out of low technology. It was the time of high compression and high octane. It also was the time of the distributor. Maybe that’s why I love them. They were simple, basic, maybe even crude by today’s standards – but they worked. And the ability to tune a car – to really make it run well – was left only to those who took the time to understand them.
      It’s been many years since distributors have been used on new vehicles, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t hundreds of thousands still on the road – and there are. Selling distributor components, from small parts to complete units, can mean big profit, and the key to it is understanding the distributor or, more importantly, helping your customer understand them.
      As a counter professional, your job – like that of a technician – often comes down to education. You are the teacher, and that’s what your customers expect. It’s very likely, at some point, that a customer will ask you if a distributor is better than modern ignition systems or even try to argue that they were.
      The answer, of course, is no. (I said I love them, not that they were better.) If you have to explain it, in a nutshell, there are too many wearing parts; too many opportunities for higher-than-normal resistance; continuous maintenance; and lack of precision spark control. Many people consider old technology better due to its simplicity, and it would be fair to agree on that point, but functionally it doesn’t hold a candle to anything new.
      The Basics
      So, let’s take a brief look at distributor technology. The first point-style ignition distributor was developed around 1910 to improve on the difficulties experienced with magneto-type ignition systems for automotive use. This point-style ignition was such a success that it was ultimately used in production cars until the mid-1970s.
      The primary service components were the points, condenser, cap and rotor, and the ignition coil was separate from the distributor. The distributor was driven by a gear on the camshaft or, in some cases, an intermediate shaft. When rotating, the ignition points opened and closed off a cam located on the distributor shaft.
      How did it all work together? It starts with understanding how an ignition coil works. The ignition coil has primary and secondary windings. When current flows through the primary winding, a magnetic field is created that surrounds the secondary windings. When the current flow is interrupted, the magnetic field collapses and induces high voltage in the secondary windings. The voltage and current from the secondary windings are directed to the spark plugs through the plug wires, distributor cap and rotor.
      Inside the distributor, the points are the switch that controls the flow of current through the primary windings of the coil. When the points are closed, the current flows and the coil becomes saturated. When they open, current flow ceases, the magnetic field collapses and high voltage travels to ground through the spark plugs. The reason that the secondary voltage is boosted to such a high level is that the primary winding of a coil contains approximately 200 turns of wire. The secondary windings may contain 20,000 or 30,000. This is why 12 volts supplied to a coil can be transformed into voltages of 20,000, to as high as 50,000.
      link hidden, please login to view By understanding these fundamentals and the fact that ignition coils can differ in the number of windings and ultimately their output, you can see how the amount of and how long the current that flows through the primary side of the coil will affect coil output. Since the amount of time that the points are closed controls how long the current flows through the coil, the critical nature of point adjustment (dwell) becomes apparent.
      Now that we know where the spark comes from and how it gets to the plugs, there’s one component left to explain: the condenser. As the points open, current will attempt to continue to flow across them by arcing. The condenser quickly absorbs and dissipates this electrical energy and does the following two things: It eliminates arcing between the points, which would burn them up quickly; and it also puts an abrupt stop to the current flow through the coil, making the magnetic field collapse quickly for more accurate spark control.
      Electronic Ignition
      So, what is electronic ignition? After all, the points and condenser work off basic electronic principles, right? When electronic ignition first came out in the early 1970s, it (sometimes called transistorized ignition) was still a distributor with a cap, rotor and plug wires and, in many cases, a separate coil. It actually didn’t look different at all until GM released its High Energy Ignition (HEI) distributor, which housed the coil in the distributor cap and was visually much different.
      What was different was the points and condenser were gone! No more regular adjustments or regular maintenance; the points were replaced by electronic pickups made with solid-state components. The most common was a Hall-effect unit, which passed a rotating magnetic field in front of a Hall-effect pickup that would detect the magnetic field. Solid state meant the electronic components themselves had no moving parts; their operation is based on fundamental electronic theory.
      Electronic-ignition distributors were much superior to their point-and-condenser counterparts. One of the biggest drawbacks to points was that the rubbing block that contacted the cam on the distributor shaft wears constantly during use. Even though a set of points may ultimately last 10,000 miles, for example, since the rubbing block continuously wears, the dwell continuously changes, which causes the timing to change and the output of the coil as well.
      It’s easy to think, “If the rubbing block wears, the points will be closed longer. Won’t this allow more time for the coil to saturate, resulting in a higher voltage output?” This is not the case. The correct dwell setting ensures that the coil will be completely saturated. It’s true if the points aren’t closed long enough the coil won’t have enough time to saturate. But if they’re closed too long, that also means they’re not open long enough. If they are not open long enough, the field in the coil will not have sufficient time to collapse and produce the necessary voltage for proper spark before current begins to flow back into the primary side of the coil again.
      link hidden, please login to view So, electronic ignition eliminated the wear and maintenance problems associated with points and condenser, but all electronic ignition distributors were not created equal. Enter GM’s HEI. Another drawback to points was they don’t last long under a constant 12 volts, so voltage through the coil and to the points was limited by either a ballast resistor or a resistance wire, depending on vehicle make. During cranking, the resistance was bypassed so full battery voltage would be supplied to the coil for starting, but then when the key was released to the “Run” position, voltage was limited.
      The lower voltage limited coil output and even after switching over to electronic ignition, some systems retained use of the ballast resistor, limiting ignition-coil output. GM’s HEI utilized full battery voltage all the time, and the result was an ignition system with a much higher output.
      Another aspect of ignition is that the higher the rpm, the greater the spark requirement. As engine rpm increases on a point-style ignition – even with the dwell set properly – the amount of actual time the points remain closed is less, resulting in a less time for the coil to saturate and less spark when the engine needs it the most.
      GM’s HEI was designed so that the dwell increases as engine rpm increases, providing high rpm performance as well as high output and dependability – whereas some systems retained fixed dwell. If you’ve been around old cars, you’re probably familiar with all of the different variations and names of electronic ignition systems throughout the ‘70s and ‘80s. The only one that stayed the same was GM’s HEI. Everyone else followed their lead.
      Timing Advance
      Before we get into selling components, which will be a walk in the park for you now, we’ll touch quickly on distributor advance. Two types of timing advance can be found in distributors: vacuum and mechanical. Sometimes they have only one type, sometimes both. Timing advance is required because once ignited, the air/fuel mixture in a cylinder does not burn instantly. It takes a certain amount of time to burn. The higher the engine rpm, the earlier the mixture must be ignited to reach the full burn, or maximum pressure at the precise time to force the piston down.
      This gets deep into engine theory and design, but the fact is that having the correct amount of advance at precisely the correct time has a monumental effect on engine performance. Mechanical advance uses weights that move outward from centrifugal force. As they move outward, they rotate the base plate of the distributor that supports either the points or electronic trigger mechanism. The higher the rpm, the more mechanical advance is applied until its mechanical limit is reached. Mechanical advance can be “tuned” using different weights or springs.
      Vacuum advance also rotates the same base plate of a distributor, but in response to engine-ported vacuum. The more vacuum applied, the greater the advance. This is utilized for low-rpm advance before the mechanical advance spins fast enough to come into play.
      Selling Distributor Components
      What can you capitalize on when selling distributor components? Cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires might be the easier topics, and they’re what a lot of people just ask for. The cap, rotor and wire condition generally can be determined through visual inspection, but if it’s time for a tuneup, a vehicle has a misfire or the customer can’t remember when they were done last, the door is open and it’s a perfect time to sell.
      Never guarantee that a cap, rotor and wires will solve a misfire or running problem. But, they can degrade from use and age, and they’re true maintenance items, so don’t forget to point that out.
      Spark plugs are a maintenance item that you almost can’t do too often. Some late-model vehicles that still have distributors have efficient fuel-injection systems and engine controls, and the plugs will last for a long time. It doesn’t make sense to unnecessarily replace a good expensive set of plugs on a fuel-injected vehicle, but I shy away from the really high replacement intervals like 100,000 miles. If someone hits 90,000 and says, “It doesn’t call for them until 100,000,” it’s time for plugs in my opinion (they’re getting worn regardless).
      For older vehicles with less efficient fuel and ignition systems, the plugs need to be replaced more often. OE-style plugs are the best to recommend with any system, and if it’s a classic that isn’t driven as much, don’t be afraid to recommend a fresh set.
      Most vehicle owners will know if they have points and condenser. When old cars were driven daily, points and condenser were replaced at least once a year, just because of mileage. It’s not necessary to do this now, since most cars with these systems don’t see a whole lot of miles. But, like before, if someone opens the door and can’t remember when they were done last, sell them the parts.
      It’s always a good idea to clean up the points and adjust dwell, however. If you stock any basic tools, a nice upsell is a point file, a dwell meter, a spark plug gauge and a timing light. This will cover the standard maintenance requirements of a point-type ignition and if they have electronic ignition, just the spark plug gauge and timing light will do.
      When someone is doing an ignition tuneup, be sure to ask them about the condition of their distributor-advance components. Vacuum-advance diaphragms go bad from time to time, so they should be checked and replaced, if necessary. Mechanical weights should be taken off and their pivot points cleaned and lubricated. In many cases, the mechanical-advance weights pivot on bushings that commonly wear out, and the weights themselves can have grooves worn in them if they haven’t been lubricated on a regular basis. It’s all a great opportunity for an upsell.
      Additional distributor components include seals and bushings and also the electrical connectors that plug into them (pigtails). If someone is removing their distributor for service, a new seal makes sense, but bushings are a harder sell since most people will generally buy a new distributor if the bushings are worn. But, the sale could be yours if you’re the one who helps them understand their distributor. Worn bushings are common on higher-mileage distributors and easy to spot on an oscilloscope, but since nobody really has one of those sitting around in their garage, they’re easy to check by grabbing the distributor shaft and attempting to rock it back and forth.
      Any noticeable play means the bushings are worn. Since the trigger wheel or points are driven directly off of the distributor shaft, just imagine what will happen to dwell and timing if this shaft is rocking back and forth in worn bushings.
      Dielectric Grease
      Dielectric grease is another great upsell. Forget about the silly little packets that give you just enough to get your finger or an application brush greasy – sell them a tube. No, you don’t need to, nor should you use an excessive amount of it, but it’s frustrating to deal with such a small amount. Plus, you can remind your customer of all the additional electronic uses for dielectric grease (don’t let the name throw you off).
      Dielectric grease does not conduct electricity at all. What it does do is seal electric components from moisture, which is why you can find it in a lot of electrical connectors and in bulb sockets. This was the original intention of it: to prevent moisture and corrosion from occurring. An added benefit is that when used on plug-wire boots, it keeps moisture out but also keeps the boot from sticking onto a spark plug or distributor cap, making removal much easier.
      An oddball – but one you will run across – is heat-transfer compound. You also may hear this referred to as thermal grease, thermal compound or even heat-sink compound. Have you ever removed an ignition module or other electronic module from either inside a distributor or another location and found that it had grease underneath? This is a compound that is specially formulated so that it transfers heat from the module to the mounting location. It is a true heat sink and very important. Modules that originally were installed with this will overheat if the proper compound is not reused.
      A Few More Add-Ons
      Just a few final things can finish off the perfect ignition-tuneup shopping cart. When someone is working on a vehicle that is from the early ‘70s, don’t forget to see if their car has a ballast resistor. (You’ll get used to these applications pretty quickly.) They commonly go bad and cause a no-start. It’s never bad to have an extra one in your glovebox.
      For the old point-style distributors, there is a specific grease for the distributor cam to lubricate the ignition-point rubbing block. Some points may come with a small packet. If not, be sure to recommend it. Anti-seize also is a good upsell, but it’s not necessary all the time. Make sure you recommend the proper use.
      If the plugs are located in a deep well – like a lot of double overhead-cam engines – advise your customer to check for the presence of oil. They may need a valve-cover gasket. And, last but not least, a light lubricating or penetrating oil is nice to have on hand. Many distributors have metal clips that hold the cap in place. These clips commonly get rusty where they attach to the distributor, and it’s nice to work some lubricant in and free them up. It makes it much easier to reinstall the cap.
      This might be a lot, but when you have the knowledge, your customer will keep coming back.
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