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How To: Replace the Tail Lights in a 2006-2011 Honda Civic
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By NAPA
Honestly,
link hidden, please login to view are rarely a topic of discussion around automotive maintenance until something goes wrong. A torn CV boot seems like a minor issue at first, but if the situation is not remedied quickly, more damage will occur. A CV boot keeps lubricating grease from escaping the spinning link hidden, please login to view. Without grease, the CV joint will wear out rapidly. CV boots also protect the CV joint from water, dirt and road debris. For an often-forgotten replacement part, the CV boot performs a pretty critical job. For even more technical insight, check out “ link hidden, please login to view” CV boots aren’t just for front-wheel-drive vehicles either. Any vehicle design that must transmit power to a wheel, while also allowing for suspension movement, might utilize a CV joint. For example, a late-model, rear-wheel-drive
link hidden, please login to view has an independent rear suspension and two CV axles, each with two CV boots. A late-model, front-wheel-drive link hidden, please login to view also has two CV axles and four CV boots. But, in comparison, an all-wheel-drive link hidden, please login to view has four CV axles and a total of eight CV boots. Is It Possible Fix a CV Boot?
If you’re searching for a how-to guide on replacing a damaged CV boot, you came to the right place. Let’s walk through a CV boot replacement with the help of some NAPA expertise. Keep in mind, a CV axle boot replacement is only for
link hidden, please login to view that are still in good shape. If your CV axle is clicking or the CV boot was damaged and leaking grease for an extended length of time, you need to replace the entire CV axle. Installing a new CV boot and applying
link hidden, please login to view won’t fix an already damaged CV joint. Also, the labor to just replace a CV boot is nearly the same or greater than replacing the entire CV axle assembly. If the link hidden, please login to view costs as much as a new or rebuilt CV axle, the smart choice is to replace the entire CV axle. How Long Does It Take to Replace a CV Boot?
The time it takes for CV axle boot replacement varies by vehicle. Most of the labor time involves removing the CV axle from the vehicle. Budget at least an hour for the job if the CV axle is easy to remove or up to three hours if the vehicle is complicated. Cleaning the CV joint can take another 30 minutes as well.
How to Replace a CV Boot
A typical
link hidden, please login to view includes a new CV boot, two CV boot clamps and grease. Replacing a CV boot requires lifting the vehicle off the ground for easier access to the underside. A repair shop or well-outfitted home mechanic will utilize a vehicle lift, while a DIYer can use something as simple as sturdy link hidden, please login to view. Never use a floor jack to support a vehicle, as they can suddenly fail. Lift the vehicle off the ground. Use a wheel chock to prevent any wheels on the ground from rolling. Remove the wheel on the axle that needs repaired. Refer to a repair manual for what steps to follow to access the CV axle. You will likely need to remove the brakes and detach steering and/or suspension components, as well as the axle nut. Remove the CV axle from the vehicle and place it on a workbench with plenty of working space. Cut off the failed rubber CV boot. The metal CV boot clamps will likely require a pair of link hidden, please login to view. Due to the potential mess caused by the CV joint grease, we recommend wearing a pair of disposable work gloves for this step. Refer to your repair manual for how to remove the CV joint from the axle shaft. Note that inner and outer CV joints are possibly different and might require distinct methods of disassembly. Clean the axle shaft to remove any old grease. Use a link hidden, please login to view to clean the CV joint. Let the CV joint dry thoroughly. If using non-split CV boot clamps, slide them over the axle shaft now. Slide the new CV boot onto the axle shaft, taking care to orient it correctly. The large cone opening should face the CV joint. You may need to use a small amount of silicone lubricant to help move the boot along the axle shaft. Refer to your repair manual to link hidden, please login to view using the correct specified grease. Refer to your repair manual to reinstall the CV joint onto the end of the axle shaft. Slide the CV boot over the CV joint, making sure it is seated evenly. Using the link hidden, please login to view, tighten both CV boot clamps. Reinstall the CV axle along with any components that were removed to access the CV axle. Pay attention to torque specifications during reassembly. Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts to the correct specifications. Lower the vehicle back to the ground. How Much Does It Cost to Replace a CV Boot?
CV boot replacement cost can range from $300 to $900 depending on the vehicle. It is wise to price out replacement of the entire CV axle as well. In some cases, it is smarter to spend a little more money to replace the entire CV axle rather than spend time changing just a CV boot. Check out the
link hidden, please login to view for a better estimate of what this repair would cost for your vehicle (if applicable). Now that you know the typical steps of how to replace a CV boot, you can decide if this repair is something you can tackle yourself. Your local NAPA Auto Parts store can help you find the right CV axle boot repair kit for your application. You can also shop NAPAonline for
link hidden, please login to view on more than 160,000 items! Don’t feel like doing it yourself or don’t have the time? The link hidden, please login to view at your local link hidden, please login to view have you covered with more than 17,000 locations nationwide. Photo courtesy of
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By Counterman
Automotive lore calls them idiot lights. For years, critical engine functions were monitored by gauges. Oil pressure, engine-coolant temperature and generator/alternator operation were displayed for easy viewing by the driver.
Why the auto manufacturers initially decided to switch over to warning lights is anybody’s guess, but the motoring public in general was quick to express their disdain over it. Since these lights quickly earned the reputation for being useless – or not conveying warning over a bad situation until damage had already been done – they just as quickly earned their less-than-endearing nickname.
In the mid-1930s, Hudson was the first automobile manufacturer to use warning lights instead of gauges, and it wasn’t long before others followed suit. They quickly became standard, with performance vehicles being the exception with optional gauge packages.
Today, warning lights are still the standard, but it’s a completely different playing field. Oil pressure, coolant temperature and charging-system operation are still the three most important factors, and gauges for these systems have seen a resurgence in popularity, especially in trucks. However, the simplicity of only having those three systems to monitor is long gone.
Today, if it was theoretically possible to have an informative gauge for each and every system on a car, dashboards would look like the cockpit of an airplane. Possible or not, it isn’t realistic, and on top of that, computer technology has made warning-light function accurate and dependable – a far cry from the “idiot” lights of old. In most cases, warning lights today will notify you of a “condition” long before it becomes a problem, and even if it’s one of the three big factors, they’re accurate enough to give you plenty of time to get off the road and shut down to avoid a catastrophic failure.
The hard part is with the number of different warning lights today, it’s hard to know what they all mean, especially with continuously changing technology. And have you seen the size of owner’s manuals? Looking up any one item can send you on a wild goose chase bouncing around through multiple pages to maybe and only maybe find what you’re looking for.
In addition to the growing number of different symbols and warnings, there also are many colors in addition to red. Most manufacturers have incorporated the green-yellow-red idea since we’re used to what that means in relation to traffic signals: green, go; yellow, caution; red, stop. But don’t be surprised to see blue and white thrown in.
Luckily, the symbols for most warning indicators are standardized across all makes and models, making them easily recognizable. But there are still a lot of them. If there’s a light on, there’s a good possibility your customer will ask about it. Here’s a list to help you sort through them.
Check Engine/MIL/Service Engine Soon
This is the main one. The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has seen a few different variations over the years, including simple versions with the text “Check Engine” or “Service Engine Soon,” and the now widely recognized engine symbol with a lightning bolt in the middle.
An illuminated MIL means the engine control unit (ECU) recognizes there is a problem with one of the monitored engine systems, which can affect emissions, drivability or dependability. When the light is on, one or more trouble code(s) will be stored by the ECU.
A scan tool is required to access and read these trouble codes, which allow a technician to follow a specified path for diagnosis. An illuminated MIL won’t go out until the problem has been corrected or the trouble code has been erased. However, depending on the problem, if the code is erased without performing any repairs, the code may reset immediately, which will in turn cause the light to immediately come back on. In some cases, the light may take a day or two to come back on.
If the problem is corrected and the code isn’t erased (for example, your customer makes the repair but doesn’t have a scan tool), the code will be erased by the ECU and the light will go out. But, this may take as long as a week, depending on the driving habits of the vehicle owner.
If the MIL is blinking, it means there’s a problem that may damage the catalyst, and the vehicle should be immediately taken in for service. This is generally the result of a cylinder misfire, and a blinking MIL is almost always accompanied by a noticeable symptom of the engine or vehicle shaking.
Another interesting aspect of the MIL is its key-on/engine-off function. When you turn the key on with the engine off, the MIL should illuminate. On some vehicles it may shut off after a few seconds. This is normal. If the light begins to blink, this is an indicator that the readiness monitors aren’t complete, and the vehicle isn’t ready for an E-Check. Of course, readiness monitors are a subject all on their own, but this can be useful to know for anyone in an E-Check area.
Odometer-Triggered Warnings
As emissions regulations were tightening prior to the advanced computer controls we’re used to today, some manufacturers began to use odometer-triggered warning lights for emissions-related systems as early as the mid-1970s. Many of these were oxygen-sensor or EGR (exhaust-gas recirculation) warning lamps, designed to come on at a specified interval for service or replacement of specific parts.
These are rarely seen today, and OBD II, which became mandatory on all cars in the United States in 1996, hastened the end of these types of warnings. If you happen to see one, keep in mind on older vehicles that there’s no scan tool to reset them. There’s a specific procedure that differs per manufacturer, and it’s often a mechanical reset, sometimes on the back of the odometer itself or in a “trick” location.
Battery Light
Here’s an easy one. An illuminated battery means there’s low system voltage for some reason. Is it the battery, the alternator, wiring or a broken belt? Bottom line: When this light comes on, you better get where you’re going quickly – especially at night – or you’re going to run out of power.
Cooling System
The thermometer in water is widely recognized as a cooling-system warning, but it can mean many different things. Red means trouble no matter what, but it can mean that the coolant level is too low, or the engine temperature is too high. These also can flash, indicating there’s another malfunction within the cooling system. On some vehicles, this light also may be green or blue when the vehicle is cold, letting you know to let the engine warm up before any hard acceleration.
Brake-System Lights
The common symbol for brake systems is a circle with an arc on each side. While I’ve never had any documented proof, I picture it as the circle indicating a brake drum or rotor, and the arc on each side indicating the brake linings that act upon them. There are multiple different variations of the symbol.
Red is bad. An exclamation point in the middle means the fluid level is low or the system has lost brake pressure. A ”P” in the middle means the parking brake is engaged.
There also are multiple yellow variations of the light. The letters “ABS” in the middle means there’s a malfunction with the antilock braking system. When the arcs on the side are dashed, this indicates the brake-pad linings are worn very low. This usually is a feature only on higher-end vehicles. If there’s a crossed-out bulb in the middle, it means there’s a brake light out, or a problem with the brake-light circuit.
A green indicator with a foot in the middle means you must step on the brake before you can shift the vehicle out of park or start the car if it’s a push-button start. Most brake warning lights occupy their own spot on the instrument cluster, with the exception of the fluid-level/brake-pressure warnings, which generally utilize the same lamp.
Oil Pressure/Oil Level
The oil can is another one of the three big ones. Red means low oil pressure, and other than when the ignition itself is on, this light should go out when the engine is running. Low oil-level warnings are sometimes indicated by this light in yellow, or sometimes by a separate warning.
Tire Pressure
Easily as well-known as today’s “Check Engine” light is a low-tire warning light, part of the tire-pressure monitoring system (TPMS). It means you have a tire low on air, but if the light flashes initially, it means there’s a problem in the system – usually that one of the sensors isn’t communicating with the system – and it should be diagnosed by a professional technician.
Seatbelt/SRS/Airbag
These are symbols that everyone knows. The seatbelt warning symbol was one of the first to appear in cars in addition to oil, temperature and charging. The airbag symbol means there’s a problem with the supplemental restraint system (SRS). But these days, the SRS is a lot more than just the airbag in the steering wheel. It could be the passenger airbag, side or curtain airbags, seat belt pre-tensioners or more. There’s a lot to these systems and they shouldn’t be taken lightly. Your safety – and potentially your life – may depend on the operation of this system.
Transmission Warnings
The transmission warning light is shaped like a gear and can have an exclamation point inside or a thermometer inside. Red with a thermometer indicates a transmission overheating problem and yellow usually a shifting or gear-ratio problem.
Service Required
Many vehicles utilize lights or warnings to indicate that a regular service is due, from an oil change to a tune-up, or even inspection services. These vary widely between manufacturer, and are often simple text messages, or in some cases just the image of a wrench.
ABS/Traction-Control Systems
Even though we already covered ABS warning lights, it’s common for these to come on in conjunction with traction-control system (TCS) warning lights since the two systems generally share data from wheel-speed sensors. If there’s a problem with one system, there’s likely a problem with the other, or an ABS problem often causes the TCS to shut off, again due to the sensors. Many vehicles have the option of turning off the TCS, in which case the light illuminates by itself with the word “OFF.”
Diesel
Diesel engines have a few additional warning indicators that differ from gasoline engines. The glow-plug light, which looks like a couple loops of wire, illuminates either when the system is operating, or if there’s a malfunction. In most cases, if there’s a malfunction, there also will be a trouble code and the standard MIL will be illuminated.
Newer diesels have warning lights to indicate when the diesel-exhaust particulate filter (DPF) needs service, and when the diesel-exhaust fluid (DEF) is low. These lights vary widely in appearance, and some of them look downright silly like a third-grade art project. But when you look closely, you’ll see they’re trying to depict particles, fluid and the movement of exhaust.
Unless the car is new to them, diesel owners will be well-aware of the DEF light since the vehicle won’t run when it’s out of fluid.
Washer Fluid Low
This is an easy one: The view you have with the wipers on, fluid and a fountain.
Exterior-Light Warnings
There are many different exterior-light warnings. The most common is the age-old blue “high-beam” indication, but some vehicles feature this warning in green to let you know the low-beam headlights are on, or they just have the letters “DRL.” A bulb-out warning is the image of a bulb; the bulb inside the universal sign for brakes indicates a brake lightbulb out.
Many new cars have adaptive headlights, meaning they self-adjust to compensate for vehicle loads and steering. A red warning with arrows indicates a malfunction with this system.
Door/Trunk/Hood Ajar
This one is always red. Most today depict the exact location of the offender. Some are just text.
Low Fuel
We all know what this means. Sometimes it’s just a round light that comes on as the gauge nears “E.”
Drivetrain Warnings
There are probably more variations of these symbols than any other. “O/D” stands for overdrive and indicates the overdrive is turned off or disabled for some reason. If there’s a malfunction in a system that causes the overdrive to be disabled, there will most likely be an illuminated MIL to accompany it.
All-wheel-drive (AWD) and four-wheel-drive (4WD) systems that can be controlled by the driver often have text indications of what’s engaged and what gear range, or the universal symbol indicating front and rear differentials and a center transfer case is commonly used as well.
Full-time AWD systems just utilize the lamp when a problem prevents proper system operation, and depending on the type of system and the inputs it receives, there may be other warning lights on at the same time such as the MIL or
ABS indicators.
ADAS
Advanced driver-assistance systems (ADAS) came along with their share of indicators to warn us of lane departure, distance warnings, forward collision avoidance and blind-spot monitoring.
And More!
It can seem like a never-ending list. “EPC,” common on some European cars, stands for electronic power control and means there’s a problem with the throttle system. A key indicates a problem with the vehicle anti-theft system, and depending on whether it’s steady or flashing, it can clue you in to the problem.
A steering wheel with an exclamation point means there’s a problem with the power steering. A snowflake means the temperature is close to or below freezing and there could be ice on the road. The cruise-control symbol is a small speedometer with an arrow pointing to a specific spot, sometimes white or yellow to indicate the cruise control is on and green to indicate it’s set.
The bottom line? You still may need to go on that wild goose chase in the owner’s manual to determine the exact meaning of any given indicator. And what about electric vehicles, you might ask? Yes, they have them. That’s for another day.
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By APF
Brake rotors may be replaced for a variety of reasons. One is that replacement is a must if the original rotors are worn out. Every rotor has a minimum thickness or discard specification cast or stamped somewhere on the center hat section of the rotor. When the brake pads are replaced, the rotors always should be measured with a micrometer to determine their thickness. If the rotors are worn too thin and are at or below the minimum or discard thickness (or they cannot be resurfaced without exceeding the limit), the rotors must be replaced.
Worn-out rotors are dangerous for two reasons: Thin rotors cannot absorb and dissipate heat as well as new rotors, which increases the risk of the pads getting too hot and fading with prolonged or heavy braking. Also, thin rotors are more likely to crack and break apart, which would cause brake failure.
Another condition that usually calls for rotor replacement is when the rotors are “warped” and are causing a vibration or pulsation when the brakes are applied. Warped is actually a misnomer, because the rotors are not distorted but are worn unevenly. When there is more than a couple thousandths variation in rotor thickness, it pushes the pads in and out when the brakes are applied. The force is transmitted back through the caliper pistons, brake lines and master cylinder all the way to the brake pedal, creating a vibration or pulsation that can be felt by the driver. The greater the variation in rotor thickness, the stronger the vibration or pulsation. It’s a really annoying condition, though not necessarily an unsafe one. It may be mistaken by the vehicle owner for a problem with their antilock brake system, which also can produce pedal pulsation or vibrations when the ABS system kicks into play.
Uneven rotor wear and thickness variations can be caused by severe rotor overheating (a dragging brake pad or stuck caliper), by distortion in the rotor caused by uneven torque or over-tightening the lug nuts, or even metallurgical defects in the rotor casting itself. High spots on the rotor will often be discolored with a dark bluish tint. Resurfacing the rotor can restore flat parallel surfaces, but often the hard spots that are caused by overheating or uneven wear extend into the metal surface. Over time, this will cause uneven wear again and the pedal pulsation or vibration to return. Replacing the rotors with new ones eliminates any such worries.
Rotors also must be replaced if they are cracked, damaged or severely corroded. The danger is rotor failure due to the cracks or severe corrosion. Some minor heat cracking on the surface may be acceptable, but heavy or deep cracking is not.
Another reason to replace rotors is to upgrade braking performance and/or the appearance of the vehicle. Drilled or slotted rotors do add a performance look to any brake system, and they also can provide improved cooling for the rotors and venting for the pads. The holes and/or slots provide an escape path for hot gases that can form between the pads and rotor when the brakes are working hard. Holes and slots or wavy grooves in the rotor face also create turbulence, which improves airflow and cooling.
Some vehicles come factory-equipped with “composite” rotors that have a thin stamped steel center hat section mated with a cast rotor body to save weight. This type of rotor tends to be more sensitive to uneven wear and distortion than one-piece cast rotors. Composite rotors also are more costly to replace, so one-piece aftermarket cast rotors are a replacement option. However, if replacing composite rotors with one-piece castings, both rotors (right and left) should be replaced at the same time to maintain even braking and alignment side-to-side. On some vehicles, replacing a composite rotor with a thicker cast rotor also may alter wheel geometry slightly, creating increased toe-out and tire wear when turning.
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