-
Welcome to Auto Parts Forum
Whether you are a veteran automotive parts guru or just someone looking for some quick auto parts advice, register today and start a new topic in our forum. Registration is free and you can even sign up with social network platforms such as Facebook, Twitter, Google, and LinkedIn.
How To: Replace the Tail Light Bulb on a 2003 to 2009 Toyota Prius
-
Similar Content
-
- 0 replies
- 37 views
-
- 0 replies
- 31 views
-
- 0 replies
- 74 views
-
- 0 replies
- 80 views
-
- 0 replies
- 126 views
-
-
Similar Topics
-
By APF
Brake rotors may be replaced for a variety of reasons. One is that replacement is a must if the original rotors are worn out. Every rotor has a minimum thickness or discard specification cast or stamped somewhere on the center hat section of the rotor. When the brake pads are replaced, the rotors always should be measured with a micrometer to determine their thickness. If the rotors are worn too thin and are at or below the minimum or discard thickness (or they cannot be resurfaced without exceeding the limit), the rotors must be replaced.
Worn-out rotors are dangerous for two reasons: Thin rotors cannot absorb and dissipate heat as well as new rotors, which increases the risk of the pads getting too hot and fading with prolonged or heavy braking. Also, thin rotors are more likely to crack and break apart, which would cause brake failure.
Another condition that usually calls for rotor replacement is when the rotors are “warped” and are causing a vibration or pulsation when the brakes are applied. Warped is actually a misnomer, because the rotors are not distorted but are worn unevenly. When there is more than a couple thousandths variation in rotor thickness, it pushes the pads in and out when the brakes are applied. The force is transmitted back through the caliper pistons, brake lines and master cylinder all the way to the brake pedal, creating a vibration or pulsation that can be felt by the driver. The greater the variation in rotor thickness, the stronger the vibration or pulsation. It’s a really annoying condition, though not necessarily an unsafe one. It may be mistaken by the vehicle owner for a problem with their antilock brake system, which also can produce pedal pulsation or vibrations when the ABS system kicks into play.
Uneven rotor wear and thickness variations can be caused by severe rotor overheating (a dragging brake pad or stuck caliper), by distortion in the rotor caused by uneven torque or over-tightening the lug nuts, or even metallurgical defects in the rotor casting itself. High spots on the rotor will often be discolored with a dark bluish tint. Resurfacing the rotor can restore flat parallel surfaces, but often the hard spots that are caused by overheating or uneven wear extend into the metal surface. Over time, this will cause uneven wear again and the pedal pulsation or vibration to return. Replacing the rotors with new ones eliminates any such worries.
Rotors also must be replaced if they are cracked, damaged or severely corroded. The danger is rotor failure due to the cracks or severe corrosion. Some minor heat cracking on the surface may be acceptable, but heavy or deep cracking is not.
Another reason to replace rotors is to upgrade braking performance and/or the appearance of the vehicle. Drilled or slotted rotors do add a performance look to any brake system, and they also can provide improved cooling for the rotors and venting for the pads. The holes and/or slots provide an escape path for hot gases that can form between the pads and rotor when the brakes are working hard. Holes and slots or wavy grooves in the rotor face also create turbulence, which improves airflow and cooling.
Some vehicles come factory-equipped with “composite” rotors that have a thin stamped steel center hat section mated with a cast rotor body to save weight. This type of rotor tends to be more sensitive to uneven wear and distortion than one-piece cast rotors. Composite rotors also are more costly to replace, so one-piece aftermarket cast rotors are a replacement option. However, if replacing composite rotors with one-piece castings, both rotors (right and left) should be replaced at the same time to maintain even braking and alignment side-to-side. On some vehicles, replacing a composite rotor with a thicker cast rotor also may alter wheel geometry slightly, creating increased toe-out and tire wear when turning.
Source:
link hidden, please login to view -
-
By Counterman
Lumileds received the Best New Tool for Repairs Award for its Philips Xperion 6000 UV Pillar work light from the Import Vehicle Community at AAPEX in Las Vegas.
“We designed the Philips Xperion 6000 UV Pillar as a multi-purpose work light that helps technicians save time, money and space in their tool chest,” noted Aubry Baugh, Lumileds senior manager, aftermarket marketing leader, NA. “This innovative light features three light sources: a main light rated CRI95 for color matching; a 180-lumen spotlight; and a very handy UV inspection light for critical repair jobs. The Xperion 6000 UV Pillar is three lights in one and allows techs to carry a single tool.”
Featuring an articulating LED panel for precise beam placement, a swiveling hook and powerful magnetic base, the Xperion 6000 UV Pillar can be placed in nearly any location or position to deliver light exactly where it is needed. The light features a rechargeable lithium battery for exceptional battery life, according to the company, and it’s compatible with the Philips multi-dock recharging station.
If the light is ever misplaced, technicians can find it anywhere in the shop by making it beep and flash with the optional Philips “Find My Device” key fob.
Designed to withstand the demands of automotive repair work, the Xperion 6000 UV Pillar is rated IP65 against intrusion by fluids and IK07 against impacts. The ABS rubber surfaces retain excellent grip, even in the presence of grease and oil, according to the company.
The post
link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view.
link hidden, please login to view -
By Counterman
Sealed-beam headlights were simple and easy. For years, that’s all there was. A headlight was held into its bucket by a round or rectangular stainless-steel trim piece, with either three or four screws. Sometimes you had to remove a decorative trim piece first, but still always just a few screws.
Then it got even easier throughout the 1980s as the industry transitioned from the traditional sealed beam to composite headlights with replaceable halogen bulbs. There wasn’t anything wrong with the sealed-beam design; they worked great. But there were only a few options, which limited automotive design.
With composite headlights, automakers were designing cars with the look and aerodynamics that were previously restricted by one simple part. The best thing was, you simply opened the hood, and you could see the rear of the headlamps with the connector for the bulb protruding out the back. You unplugged the bulb, removed a retaining ring and out it came. It was that easy, and many still are that way. There’s not much to it.
Sticker Shock
However, all good things come to an end, and we’re seeing more and more cars where the aerodynamics, the shape of the front end and the tight, space-restricted engine compartments make it impossible to get to (or in many cases even see) the rear of the headlamp.
Often, you must completely remove the headlamp to access the bulb. Sometimes you have to remove fender liners, or in worst-case scenarios, even the bumper cover or grille. There are times when it may take 45 minutes or longer to replace a headlight bulb. It’s uncommon – but it happens, nonetheless.
Replacing headlight bulbs typically has been so simple for so long that most consumers have been programmed to think it’s a quick and easy job. You could literally replace one in less than a minute, and many shops – especially for regular customers – got in the habit of replacing them for only the cost of the bulb.
That’s become a thing of the past as they get harder and harder to get to. Imagine the consumer’s shock to tell them it’s going to be $50 to $70 in labor just to replace a headlight bulb. That’s when a lot of people decide they can do it themselves. How hard can it be after all? Either way, getting access to the bulb is Step 1. You’re home free after that, but there are a few particulars to pay attention to, which hold true for any headlight-bulb replacement.
Don’t Touch the Bulb
First and foremost: Don’t touch the bulb. Many people ask why. The natural oils on your skin will transfer to the surface of the bulb. As the bulb heats up, it expands. If there’s oil on it, that spot will get much hotter than the rest, expand at a different rate and cause it to crack or shatter.
The best advice is to leave the bulb in its packaging until after you’ve removed the original and are ready to reinstall the new one. Then carefully remove it, holding it by the electrical connector. Compare it to make sure it’s the same, then install it in the housing. If it does get oil on it or you accidentally touch it, you can simply wipe it down with rubbing alcohol and a clean rag.
Inspect the Wiring Connector
When the bulb is disconnected, it’s important to look closely at the wiring connector. It’s very common for them to be melted and burned. This often is the root cause of the headlight light not working as opposed to a bad bulb. It happens because headlight bulbs get very hot, and they go through continuous heat and cooling cycles. This constant expansion and contraction eventually weakens the tension on the electrical terminals, creating high resistance.
With resistance comes additional heat, and some aftermarket bulbs may draw a higher amperage than OE bulbs, compounding the problem. Since this problem is so common, most of the common wiring-harness connectors are readily available as a pigtail (connector with wires installed), and just have to be spliced onto the original harness. Some of them feature design improvements to handle higher heat and a higher current too.
If you’re replacing a sealed-beam headlight, it’s still a good idea to closely inspect the wiring connector. These often look OK, but don’t provide a good connection. They frequently go bad too due to corrosion and age, primarily because they aren’t sealed. These connectors are still available, as well as a pigtail harness.
The adjusters on sealed-beam headlights also break a lot simply due to age, but these are generally available too, so they’re a good upsell, and usually an easy one. Most cars with sealed-beam lights are classics, which people are willing to invest time and money in. With composite lights, this is the perfect time to sell a headlight polishing kit to bring clarity back to old lenses. So, changing headlight bulbs? It’s usually easy, but it can be hard, and there’s always an opportunity to help your customer make the most of the job.
The post
link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view.
link hidden, please login to view 
-
By Gary
Need hood for 03_08 Toyota corolla. Any color. An in the Atlanta Ga area. Can pick up if close by.
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.