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Selling Tie Rods and Steering Components
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By Counterman
Ask anyone what a “complete” brake job is and you’re likely to get a variety of answers. In the context of professional automotive repair, I define complete as meaning correctly done.
Why? Because the actual work that needs done to any given vehicle can vary depending on vehicle mileage, age and condition. And it can vary based on the equipment. For example, do you have access to a brake lathe? As a counter professional, you’ll have to dig into the details with your customer to determine what they need. However, there are simple guidelines to follow that will ensure you’re advising a “complete” brake job every time.
Brake Fluid, Brake Fluid, Brake Fluid
Above all, clean brake fluid is my first requirement.
It’s probably one of the most overlooked vehicle services, and most people don’t think of it as part of a brake job. It’s an afterthought only considered if they’re forced to do it. Anytime I perform brake work, the first part of the inspection is the bleeder screws. They must be able to open. No brake job is complete without flushing the brake fluid.
There’s no need to get “crazy” with it either when it’s done on a regular basis. A couple small 12-ounce bottles are plenty. Use a clean suction-bulb to remove as much brake fluid as you can from the master-cylinder reservoir, refill it, then flush fluid through until you can fit the contents of both bottles into the reservoir. Start with five strokes at each wheel until you see how much fluid is being forced through, so you equally balance the flushing from front to rear.
Contaminated brake fluid is corrosive and damaging to all the internal brake-system components, and it can cause poor braking performance. Even though every manufacturer specifies to flush it on a regular basis, it’s still out-of-sight, out-of-mind for a lot of people. In my opinion, you can’t change the brake fluid too often.
A complete brake job not only includes fluid, but also calipers or wheel cylinders in any situation where the bleeders don’t open.
Pads and Rotors
When disc brakes are being serviced, pads and rotors are at the core of the job. It’s far less common to resurface rotors than it has been in past times, and it doesn’t matter if you take that road or go with new. But the bottom line is something must happen with the rotors. “Slapping” a set of pads on old rotors is an immediate fail. The pads will never bed in properly, and you’ll only be faced with poor brake performance, uneven pad wear and unwanted noise.
The bottom line: Rotors must be resurfaced or replaced for the job to be complete. By the same token, old pads on new rotors equals an incomplete brake job.
Why would someone do this? Your guess could be as good as mine, but believe me, I’ve seen it all and I’m sure you have too. New pads and rotors bed in together. In other words, they rely on each other for proper brake operation.
Drum Brakes
If you thought there were some offenders with disc brakes, drums are often worse. For some reason there seems to be a perception that brake drums miraculously never need service, but the same theories hold true. If you’re replacing brake shoes, the job is only correctly done by resurfacing or replacing the drums.
Hardware
Hardware is anything from springs and hold-downs on drum brakes to anti-rattle clips and slide-pin boots on disc brakes. All these little pieces are important to proper brake operation. On drum brakes, even though everything may be intact, it’s also old and the springs will simply be fatigued. On disc brakes, the same holds true and even anti-rattle clips that look OK can be worn or fatigued in some manner. Luckily, most pads come with the hardware. They don’t put it in the box just for fun.
One of the most overlooked parts of disc-brake service is the fact that the pads must be able to move freely in the caliper bracket and the calipers also must be able to move freely back and forth. Most calipers (excluding fixed calipers) feature slide pins that allow this to happen. No brake job is complete without removing the slide pins, cleaning them up, lubricating them and reinstalling them with new boots when required.
It’s surprising how often the slide pins are stuck and how often brake pads are jammed in place due to rust, and the rust must be completely removed to allow free movement of the new brake pads. Stuck pins or stuck pads cause uneven and accelerated wear, dragging brakes, pulling and excessive heat buildup.
Lubrication
I touched on it already, but it’s worth a second mention. In addition to the slide pins on calipers, the brake pads require lubrication any place they contact the caliper bracket or caliper. Brake lube is specifically formulated to a) not damage or swell rubber components such as piston or slide-pin boots, b) prevent vibrations that cause noise, c) lubricate the pad contact points so they move freely in the caliper bracket and d) resist washing out.
In the case of drum brakes, the backing plates feature specific contact points for the brake shoes, which should be cleaned and lubricated. Brake shoes also require lubrication at pivot and contact points between the shoes and hardware.
Inspection
Determining what is required for a complete brake job can only be done through inspection and disassembly. It’s easy to see worn-out pads and rusty rotors through a wheel, but even when that’s evident, you can’t see anything else until you take things apart. This is when you inspect for brake-fluid leaks, seized or damaged hardware, torn dust boots and functional bleeder screws.
If leaks are found or dust boots are torn on a caliper piston or wheel cylinder, or if the bleeder won’t open, the components need to be replaced. Only until disassembly is performed during an inspection can you say absolutely what’s needed for any given vehicle. Sure, we can all look at a 50,000-mile four-year-old vehicle and say that it needs pads and rotors, and most likely those are the only hard parts it will need. But it’s no guarantee, and the higher the mileage and older the vehicle, the more likely we’ll find something else, which leads to the next category …
Recommending Parts
There’s always a way to work into the conversation of a complete brake job. The next time someone comes in and wants pads and rotors, you might ask, “Would you like me to look up caliper availability just in case a bleeder screw doesn’t open, or a caliper pin is seized?” If they’re an experienced technician, they know how often that happens, and they’ll likely say yes, just to know in case they need them, and they’ll appreciate it!
If they’re new at all this, it will get them thinking and open the door for your advice. The next thing you know, they might change their mind and decide to buy new calipers – or at minimum they’ll leave with the extra goodies they need for a complete brake job, such as brake lubricant, brake fluid, brake cleaner and some shop rags. If they get into the job and realize there’s a problem, they’ll be right back at your store.
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By NAPA
It’s no surprise that electrification has spread into every corner of the automotive world. From humble local delivery vans to high-voltage track monsters, the gamut of EVs on the road is impressive. So, it is no shock that manufacturers recognized the inherent benefit electric motors have in delivering a ton of torque at initial startup. That gives an EV tremendous power for launching off the line, something enthusiast drivers appreciate. Here’s the top hot rod electric cars that are guaranteed to get your blood pumping in 2024.
Porsche Taycan – 750 Horsepower
Porsche launched the
link hidden, please login to viewin 2019 as its first dedicated electric car. Keeping with Porsche naming conventions, the highest output version, Taycan Turbo S, is the top-of-the-line in terms of performance. No, there is not a “turbo” in the traditional sense, but the Turbo and Turbo S models do get a nice first bump of recognition with the powerful name. Driver’s get a 2.6 second 0–60 mph launch and a 161 mph top speed for track days. Mercedes-AMG EQS – 751 Horsepower
It should come as no surprise that the in-house hot rod division of Mercedes-Benz would get its insulated-gloved hands into the EV market. While the
link hidden, please login to view is not the first electric AMG vehicle (the 2013 Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG Electric Drive gets that nod), it is the first on a dedicated electric vehicle chassis. Mercedes claims a 3.4 second 0–60 mph time, which is .1 second faster than the combustion-engine Camaro ZL1 Coupe from the same year. Rivian R1T – 835 Horsepower
link hidden, please login to view may only sell one vehicle (the SUV is pretty much identical to the truck), but sales show the payoff of extreme product focus. link hidden, please login to view buyers can select the quad motor version for combined 835 horsepower and a 3.0 second 0–60 mph time. That’s faster than a Dodge Challenger Hellcat Redeye, plus it has enough room to pick up a load of mulch from the local garden center. GMC Hummer EV – 1,000 Horsepower
It feels kind of silly labeling the hulking
link hidden, please login to view as an EV hot rod, but stay with us. When the spec sheet shows three motors with a total of up to 1,000 horsepower and a 0–60 mph time of 3.0 seconds flat, that’s hustling. And when that hustle is brought by something the size of a tiny house, it is even more impressive. Sure “Watts to Freedom” mode sounds silly, but it is akin to a tank getting shot out of a cannon, so it matches. Tesla Model S Plaid – 1,020 Horsepower
When it comes to drag racing electric cars,
link hidden, please login to view was likely the first manufacturer to grab driver’s attention. Fans of the 1987 movie “Spaceballs” should get Tesla’s name reference — setting light speed to Plaid. Three motors with a combined 1,020 peak horsepower rocket this sedan to 60 mph in just 1.99 seconds. That’s a full second faster than a new Corvette. It also rips the quarter mile in 9.23 seconds at 155 mph. Just how quick is that? If you want to race your Tesla link hidden, please login to view Plaid at a sanctioned NHRA drag race, it will need a roll cage and a parachute! Tesla Model X Plaid – 1,020 Horsepower
Tesla took the same drivetrain as the already insane Model S Plaid and put it in an SUV, thus creating the
link hidden, please login to view Plaid. The added size and weight took a toll as 0–60 mph now takes 2.5 seconds, but the quarter mile time is just a touch slower at 9.9 seconds. That’s two seconds faster than a Dodge Durango SRT Hellcat. Plus, it has cool gullwing doors and can tow 5,000 pounds. Lucid Air – 1,234 Horsepower
Now we’re getting into ridiculous territory. Dropping $250k on a
link hidden, please login to view Sapphire gets you 1,234 horsepower and a top speed of 205 mph. That money also gets you to 60 mph in 1.89 seconds and an 8.95 second quarter mile time. All this in a four-door sedan that can go more than 400 miles on a single charge. Sure, a Bugatti Veyron will outrun it on the top end, but the Lucid Air Sapphire will make it claw for every inch on the way to 200 mph. Rimac Nevera – 1,914 Horsepower
For our pick of the baddest electric hot rod, we have the Rimac Nevara. This is beyond simply an electric sports car and ventures into pure hypercar territory with a sleek body to match. Its 1.74 second 0–60 mph time set a
link hidden, please login to view in May of 2023 along with a slew of other acceleration world records. It can hit 249 mph in just 21 seconds. It can also go from a dead stop to 249 mph and back to a dead stop in just less than 30 seconds. And, just for silliness, Rimac set a world record for the fastest driving…in reverse (171 mph). Now, for the big downside, that mind bending speed will set you back $2.2 million dollars. NAPA Is Your One-Stop EV Shop link hidden, please login to view
So, there you have it. Electric hot rod options from tame to insane. Rumors still surround a possible electric muscle car from Dodge in the form of the Charger Daytona SRT Banshee, but no official production date is set. Looking to build your own EV muscle car?
link hidden, please login to view is an electric motor swap kit that you should find available to the public soon. Thinking of upgrading to the electric vehicle lifestyle, but you need a complete at-home charging station setup? NAPA has you covered thanks to a partnership with
link hidden, please login to view, which can assist you in purchasing the link hidden, please login to view for your needs, and correctly link hidden, please login to view in your garage. And remember, NAPA Auto Parts has a long history of supplying quality parts for at-home mechanics restoring muscle cars. Tackle your
link hidden, please login to view with the best cooling fans, cold air intakes, control modules and more. Simply shop link hidden, please login to view or head over to your local link hidden, please login to view store. Sign up for link hidden, please login to view now to start earning Points—earn 100 Points, and you get $5 off your next purchase automatically! Photo courtesy of
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