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09-14 Ford F-150 Repairs


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    • By TerryTeng
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    • By OReilly Auto Parts
      How To: Replace Tail lights on a 2009 to 2014 Ford F-150
    • By Counterman
      Now there’s a way to ensure more reliable power from EcoBoost-powered 2.3-liter engines with the introduction of MAHLE Motorsport’s 4032 alloy Ford EcoBoost 2.3L PowerPak Plus Piston kit.
      Designed for heavy-duty applications in which the OE cast piston has been known to fail, MAHLE Motorsport has introduced a 4032 alloy option that not only adds much-needed strength, but also allows for a tighter piston to wall clearance for quieter cold startup, according to the company.
      MAHLE Motorsport’s 2.3L PowerPak kit is loaded with value-added features for reliable power production for any 2.3-liter EcoBoost engine, according to MAHLE.
      To help correct problems associated with the OE cast piston, MAHLE Motorsport manufactured this kit with a thick slipper-skirt-style forging and an enhanced OE crown design with increased radius for improved strength. Other special features include a heavy-duty 0.200-inch wall thickness; H13 tool steel wrist pins; and a hard anodized top ring groove that is ideal for extreme-duty applications. 
      The pistons are engineered with thick 0.235-inch top and 0.200-inch second ring lands. The pistons are designed for OE 149.3-millimeter-length connecting rods and OE 22.5-millimeter wrist pins and an OE 32.8-millimeter compression height. Valve pockets and depth accommodates both the 2-liter and 2.3-liter OE EcoBoost heads with a 9.5:1 compression ratio. 
      The new PowerPak Plus kit is available in 87.51-millimeter (No. 197937145) and 88-millimeter (No. 197937165) bore sizes and includes a nitrided steel 1.2-millimeter top, 1.2-millimeter second, 2.8-millimeter oil-ring set. The pistons are coated with MAHLE’s unique GRAFAL anti-friction skirt coating and phosphate to prevent microwelding and pin galling. 
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    • By Counterman
      NRS Brakes recently launched new galvanized brake pads designed exclusively for late-model Ford and Lincoln vehicles.
      The galvanized brake pads are for the following makes and models: 2017-2020 Ford Fusion; 2015-2020 Ford Edge; 2017-2019 Ford Escape; 2017-2019 Lincoln Continental; 2016-2018 Lincoln MKX; 2018-2020 Lincoln MKZ; and the 2019-2020 Lincoln Nautilus.
      NRS Brakes is globally recognized for its premium, fully galvanized brake pads.
      “Like all brake pads from NRS Brakes, this new release features unparalleled semi-met friction, patented mechanical-attachment technology and fully galvanized-steel backing plates,” the company said in a news release. “The galvanized steel withstands rust and corrosion, meaning NRS brake pads require significantly fewer replacements than other aftermarket pads, making them the most affordable option based on total cost of ownership over the life of the vehicle.”
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      To view a complete listing of NRS galvanized brake pads and vehicle compatibility, visit
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    • Shop AutoPartsToys.com for all Your Car, Truck and SUV Accessories at Direct Factory Warehouse Pricing
    • By Counterman
      We deal with a LOT of electrical components on a daily basis, but equally important is the wiring that connects these components to the rest of their circuits. Sensors, switches, solenoids and actuators require electrical power to do their jobs. Quite often, though, our customers condemn the part we just sold them as “defective” when it doesn’t fix their issue.
      Considering the thousands of feet of wire in today’s automobiles, along with dozens of quick connectors and repair pigtails, sometimes it’s just a matter of bad wiring that causes our quality parts to look bad. Repairing these wires and connections requires only a handful of basic tools and some universal supplies, many of which we sell and stock every day.
      Electrical troubleshooting can be intimidating to the novice, and sometimes frustrating even for the professional. At its most basic level, all we really need is power at the correct voltage, and a ground to complete the circuit. Diagnostic tools of all kinds use basic electrical principles to help us find and isolate the problem. From the most advanced digital volt ohm meter (DVOM), right down to a homemade continuity tester made from wires and a light bulb, you’re looking for the potential to pass electricity through a circuit.
      The DVOM, also known as a “multimeter,” combines many of these tests into one handheld unit. It can test for continuity, resistance, voltage and amperage, giving the user the ability to diagnose issues in powered or ­­
      un-powered circuits. Specialized attachments can test spark plug wires, fuse blocks and even probe temperatures.
      The simple “ice-pick” continuity tester is sort of a “go/no-go” gauge to show if there is a break in a powered circuit. If a completed circuit is ON, it lights up. No lights? No power! The self-powered test light is similar to the continuity tester, but has its own power source, so it can be used on components that are disconnected from their circuit. These can be used to actuate solenoids and switches, and power other circuits for component testing.
      Once the problem in the circuit has been diagnosed, we must repair the fault in the circuit. If a standalone component is bad, we simply replace it with the appropriate cataloged part. If the fault is in the wiring or a connector, other tools and supplies will be required. For connector failures, technicians often simply connect a new pigtail to the existing wire ends, taking note of the position of each wire and its color coding. For wire failures, the technician would repair or replace the damaged section of wire.
      These wiring repairs can be done in many different ways, with varying results and quality.
      The most common type of wire repair is a “crimp” connection. A repair terminal or connector is attached to the wire end by stripping away approximately a half-inch of insulation, sliding the terminal over the bared wire and crimping it into place with a plier-type crimping tool. This is only a mechanical connection, and aside from twisting wires together by hand (NOT recommended, by the way!), this is the weakest and least effective type of wiring repair.
      The best method of inline wire repair is to twist the wires together and solder the joint, creating a conductive and solid connection that lasts much longer than crimp-type connections. This method requires additional tools and supplies: a soldering iron, rosin-core solder and heat-shrink tubing to insulate the soldered joint. An “in-between” alternative is the heat-shrink crimp connector, which is crimped in place, then heated to create a weather-resistant seal. A quality electrical tape can be used to protect crimped or soldered repairs, but heat-shrink provides better protection. Heat-shrinking can be achieved with a heat gun, or (carefully) with a disposable lighter or mini-torch.
      In addition to the most common diagnostic and hand tools, there are a wide array of specialty tools available for various wiring-repair tasks. Some of these are gimmicky, single-purpose tools, but others can be incredibly handy, like terminal-release tools. These special probes are used to release individual wire terminals from their connector housings, although small picks or screwdrivers can work in a pinch. These tools also are helpful for separating connectors from their mating components. Test leads, with pins or alligator clips, also are handy additions to the electrical toolkit, as well as a good variety of repair terminals, wire, tape and fuses.
      Most of these tools and supplies fall into the category of “non-catalog” ­parts, although pigtail connectors usually are found alongside the components to which they connect. Depending on the skill level of the individual
      customer, you may find yourself recommending one or more of these tools and repair supplies. Knowing these best practices, as well as what tools and supplies are necessary for a particular repair, allows us to recommend the most appropriate solutions, even if it isn’t the component your customer came in for originally!
      The post
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